65535
Flashlight Enthusiast
Nice T slot covers. I commend your effort but feel sorry for the fact that it is a futile attempt. There is no beating the chip.
just bought an used knee mill ... photos!
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bluwolf
Newly Enlightened
Will,
Someone on one of the other groups also mentioned using black non-slip runner that they found in the carpet section of Home Depot. I don't remember any pics. So I was gonna go have a look at it this weekend. How much was it for the stuff from Enco?
I also made T-slot covers out of wood. Nothing fancy, just hardwood strips that fit the T-slots and 1/4" plywood for tops. I also cut the plywood around the curves of the vice where it bolts down to the table. So far they seem to work well. I also feel better when I set tools down on them instead of the table. In fact it's so handy I think I'm going to re-make them with lips so they act as trays.
Mike
Someone on one of the other groups also mentioned using black non-slip runner that they found in the carpet section of Home Depot. I don't remember any pics. So I was gonna go have a look at it this weekend. How much was it for the stuff from Enco?
I also made T-slot covers out of wood. Nothing fancy, just hardwood strips that fit the T-slots and 1/4" plywood for tops. I also cut the plywood around the curves of the vice where it bolts down to the table. So far they seem to work well. I also feel better when I set tools down on them instead of the table. In fact it's so handy I think I'm going to re-make them with lips so they act as trays.
Mike
I understand what you mean. It is like with the Borg - "resistance is futile!"
I got a piece of 7' long by 36" wide of 1/8" material for like $26-27 (with free shipping and min purchase of $25).
KC2IXE
Flashaholic*
that nice shiney Kurt makes me jellious. Mine is a crusty, stained, paint free 4" - old enough it doesn't have the metal label, but engraved on the moving jaw
StrikerDown
Enlightened
Resistance is futile, is absolutely correct!! The accordion guard on my RF hangs out a couple inches on each side of the Y ways and the stuff still gets in there. It goes every where... even found some in my underwear! :devil:
StrikerDown
Enlightened
KC2IXE, This is for your eyes only!
OMG... This is a beast... A Beautiful Beast!
New In Box was right on:
Left:
Right:
ChiHandle from 5", a little shorter and about half the weight. The vice has 25-26 pounds on the import! Big and heavy!
Even the bottom is gorgeous... USA!!!:
It even seems to tram easier than the ChiVise. The jaw surface is so smooth the needle barely moves as the table slides to the other side, unlike the ChiVice where the needle would bounce like it was playing a record!
From side to side, how much is this off, .00002 or so! Straight across the jaw surface, no low or high spots like the... well, you know.
I am real happy with this vice, there is no comparison to the import, this is a jewel. Not bad at $277.xx delivered, all the way from Georga!
The seller offers these by the pallet full or by the each and occasionally they auction them, an erlier one that I missed by a couple minutes went for something like $187.xx
If I get any heavier accessories I will need a gantry!
YaHoo, there be chips flying tomorrow! :devil:
Now to find a new home for the 5"er. I can't think of a real good reason to keep it, except maybe cause it is smaller and lighter to move around and really does a decent job.
Edit:
Looking at the bottom Pic, It just occured to me that it didn't come with the T slot keys like the import vice came with, I wonder if it should have come with the KURT?
KC2IXE
Flashaholic*
Ray,
Saw it the first time you posted - sigh, like I said. I still think a 6" is a tad too large for my mill, but then again, it probably isn't.
Interestingly, the 4" costs a LOT more than a 6", and acessories ar MUCH more expensive - everyone stocks stuff for the 6" and 8", but not the 4"
Saw it the first time you posted - sigh, like I said. I still think a 6" is a tad too large for my mill, but then again, it probably isn't.
Interestingly, the 4" costs a LOT more than a 6", and acessories ar MUCH more expensive - everyone stocks stuff for the 6" and 8", but not the 4"
StrikerDown
Enlightened
Hehehe
Sorry, I just couldn't resist!
Some times I wish I had a 4"... oh wait I do, but it is a piece of crapppp!
Sorry, I just couldn't resist!
Some times I wish I had a 4"... oh wait I do, but it is a piece of crapppp!
precisionworks
Flashaholic
The mounting slots are precision machined & will usually get the vise within .005" just by pushing the vise either forward or backward until it stops. Tramming a new Kurt is a one minute operation, even on a bad day.
My 4" milling vise went to one of my two drill presses. A mill vise on a DP is really handy.
OK, so I started work on my new Quill DRO!
As I noted in another thread, I picked up this one from Shars since I wanted the bracket/hardware:
http://www.shars.com/products/view/2413/Dro_Quill_kit_for_quotzquot_axis_with_6quot_travel
Here is how things look in the mill before I started:
Remove the Z wheel for better access:
Remove the screw for the stops:
Test fit the new DRO, which of course is too long by close to 2 inches:
So using my trusty 4x6 bandsaw I "fixed" the length problem:
Of course that means that I also have to trim the caliper, which is stainless hardened steel, so I decided to trim the part that does not have a scale, so that I can preserved the scale for a good visual aid:
Thanks to Barry's advice I got a Metabo 4 1/2" angle grinder which made it easy and pleasant to cut the steel bar:
Now the length is perfect:
I had to trim a little bit the edge here to allow the display to move freely, which I then coated for protection:
After drilling/tapping 2x 6mm screws, I have a solid platform in place. Since the two bracket halfs meet in the middle, only two screws are needed as they keep each other from moving/rotating:
By the way, the total travel is not 4" inches, but actually something like 3.7" - 3.8". I will know for sure once I get it installed. Only left to do is to attach the back of the display to the block that moves with the quill - maybe tonight ...
Will
As I noted in another thread, I picked up this one from Shars since I wanted the bracket/hardware:
http://www.shars.com/products/view/2413/Dro_Quill_kit_for_quotzquot_axis_with_6quot_travel
Here is how things look in the mill before I started:
Remove the Z wheel for better access:
Remove the screw for the stops:
Test fit the new DRO, which of course is too long by close to 2 inches:
So using my trusty 4x6 bandsaw I "fixed" the length problem:
Of course that means that I also have to trim the caliper, which is stainless hardened steel, so I decided to trim the part that does not have a scale, so that I can preserved the scale for a good visual aid:
Thanks to Barry's advice I got a Metabo 4 1/2" angle grinder which made it easy and pleasant to cut the steel bar:
Now the length is perfect:
I had to trim a little bit the edge here to allow the display to move freely, which I then coated for protection:
After drilling/tapping 2x 6mm screws, I have a solid platform in place. Since the two bracket halfs meet in the middle, only two screws are needed as they keep each other from moving/rotating:
By the way, the total travel is not 4" inches, but actually something like 3.7" - 3.8". I will know for sure once I get it installed. Only left to do is to attach the back of the display to the block that moves with the quill - maybe tonight ...
Will
gadget_lover
Flashaholic
Nice setup there Will. It looks much nicer than mine. 🙂
Are you going to reinstall the threaded rods and stop-nuts? It looks like you have room there to do it.
A lesson I learned with mine: Make sure you have have clearance at the top and bottom before you fasten it to the block that moves with the quill. I made my brackets adjustable (oval mounting holes) and accidentally set it too high. When I released the quill lock the DRO smacked into the top bracket and broke one of the screws loose.
What I learned from yours... There IS a flat spot suitable for mounting the bracket. It's to the left of the quill, behind the wheel. Same place as mine. For some reason I never spotted it on mine, despite looking at it a dozen times when figuring out where to mount the darn thing. I guess my old glasses were worse than I thought.
Looking Good Will!
Daniel
Are you going to reinstall the threaded rods and stop-nuts? It looks like you have room there to do it.
A lesson I learned with mine: Make sure you have have clearance at the top and bottom before you fasten it to the block that moves with the quill. I made my brackets adjustable (oval mounting holes) and accidentally set it too high. When I released the quill lock the DRO smacked into the top bracket and broke one of the screws loose.
What I learned from yours... There IS a flat spot suitable for mounting the bracket. It's to the left of the quill, behind the wheel. Same place as mine. For some reason I never spotted it on mine, despite looking at it a dozen times when figuring out where to mount the darn thing. I guess my old glasses were worse than I thought.
Looking Good Will!
Daniel
Daniel,
For now, I am not planning on re-using the screw/stops. Never used them, and I don't think I ever will (famous last words!).
I started by removing this block, which was binding at the very bottom of the channel - after careful filling on the column side (it was not milled all the way properly at the bottom) I was able to get the block to move properly, and that was "before" I started the installation:
Yup, the clearance issues were tricky. I must have tried like 10+ times, mounting, adjusting, removing, and moving up and down looking for areas where it was touching or binding. I spend at least a couple hours last night filling and bending, and adjusting until I had minimal/no binding through the whole movement (3.737" inches to be exact):
I also had to adjust the length of the locking arm since it touched the display module - a couple of washers solved that problem:
It is not pretty, but here is the back, with the spacer Al block and "L" bracket that I used:
In the end I got it all installed and it repeats within the 1/2 mill on the display (the small 5 on the display) - not bad!:
I then zeroed the unit, and compared it to the built in dial on the wheel - man, the wheel is horrible! It was off about a mill and a half for every 10 mills. No wonder when I used it before I could not get good even finishes on multiple pases!
Next is the VFD. I already have the new Baldor 3HP, 3PH motor, and I will be ordering the actual NEMA4 VFD controller this week. I need to order a few other pieces (E-switch, pot for speed, small boxes, etc.), but I will either have to buy or make an arm to mount the VFD controller - it would be great if I can buy something like the one used by the SINO DRO!
Will
For now, I am not planning on re-using the screw/stops. Never used them, and I don't think I ever will (famous last words!).
I started by removing this block, which was binding at the very bottom of the channel - after careful filling on the column side (it was not milled all the way properly at the bottom) I was able to get the block to move properly, and that was "before" I started the installation:
Yup, the clearance issues were tricky. I must have tried like 10+ times, mounting, adjusting, removing, and moving up and down looking for areas where it was touching or binding. I spend at least a couple hours last night filling and bending, and adjusting until I had minimal/no binding through the whole movement (3.737" inches to be exact):
I also had to adjust the length of the locking arm since it touched the display module - a couple of washers solved that problem:
It is not pretty, but here is the back, with the spacer Al block and "L" bracket that I used:
In the end I got it all installed and it repeats within the 1/2 mill on the display (the small 5 on the display) - not bad!:
I then zeroed the unit, and compared it to the built in dial on the wheel - man, the wheel is horrible! It was off about a mill and a half for every 10 mills. No wonder when I used it before I could not get good even finishes on multiple pases!
Next is the VFD. I already have the new Baldor 3HP, 3PH motor, and I will be ordering the actual NEMA4 VFD controller this week. I need to order a few other pieces (E-switch, pot for speed, small boxes, etc.), but I will either have to buy or make an arm to mount the VFD controller - it would be great if I can buy something like the one used by the SINO DRO!
Will
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precisionworks
Flashaholic
You may want to make a slightly longer shaft for the locking arm, which shouldn't require too much work - turn OD, drill & tap, install cross handle. If you do that, you can put a sliding T-handle at the end.
One area where the large mill-drill excels is that is has 5.00" of quill travel. In this regard, size does matter :nana:
Great idea - thanks 😀
That is OK, my small one gets the job done :devil:
gadget_lover
Flashaholic
That's what she.... Nevermind.
I'll settle for the 3.5 Z in the quill and another 15 in the knee.
Wait. That sounds bad too. 🙂
Daniel
precisionworks
Flashaholic
If you're being picky, that would be 15" in the W axis :nana:
The best thing about a knee mill is ... ... ... the knee 😀
StrikerDown
Enlightened
Getting a knee in the Z... sounds painful
Looking real good there Will.
Looking real good there Will.
More changes coming - the VFD controller has been shipped. Soon this dream of the VFD on my knee mill will be a reality 😀
precisionworks
Flashaholic
One area that you'll need to address is that of a motor mounting plate. There's a very small chance that the bolt hole pattern of the new motor will match that of the old motor, as the two are built on different NEMA frames:
The motor on the left is the popular Baldor M3611T (three of those in my shop). To mount that motor in place of the smaller NEMA56 frame requires a transition plate:
That plate is 1/2" thick steel, sheared at a nearby fab shop, drilled & tapped for both the old motor mounting holes as well as the new ones. The sheave is shop built, weighs about ten pounds, and serves as a small flywheel.
Well, that motor mounting might be a problem. I guess I will cross that bridge when I get there 😉
By the way, the NEMA 4 VFD controller and the E-switches arrived today :thumbsup:
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