L11C

[twistedraven]

I still have my L11C with Nichia, for the price it's a wonderful light. While the 4500k 219B isn't as high a temperature as I'd ideally like, it's still a very pleasing tint that makes everything look pleasantly warm. The mode spacing is perfect to my eyes, and the UI is nice and simple as well. It's my perfect EDC light.

 

[jon_slider]

I'd sure like to see the Nichia 219C in this for a little extra output!

if brighter cooler tint suits your situation, maybe try the XP-G2 version? (its about 5800K but just 70CRI im guessing)
I also really like the 4 mode option, very versatile.

different strokes..
Im biased toward warm High CRI 3000K tints myself,

fwiw, my N219a L08 is actually my brightest high CRI light.. (4400K 87CRI, actual measured values).

The N219c is not available above 80 CRI I dont think.. brighter is a direct trade off for lower CRI imo

 

[KeepingItLight]

I still have my L11C with Nichia, for the price it's a wonderful light. While the 4500k 219B isn't as high a temperature as I'd ideally like, it's still a very pleasing tint that makes everything look pleasantly warm. The mode spacing is perfect to my eyes, and the UI is nice and simple as well. It's my perfect EDC light.

[Emphasis added.]

Agree about modes: 0.09, 3, 30, and 140 lumens for the Nichia version.

The only change I would make is to raise the "moonlight" to 0.5 lumens.

I like to carry my L11C in the bottom of my pants pocket, underneath my wallet. Makes for a comfortable EDC.

 

[uofaengr]

I wasn't 100% happy with my L11C when I had it, but now I'm considering giving it another shot.

I'd sure like to see the Nichia 219C in this for a little extra output!

Curious what you weren't happy about? Mine doesn't get much carry right now, and I've gotten used to having larger lights on me since I need the higher output daily, but if I find myself back in the office in the next few months the L11C will be back in my pocket. If you can get by with not needing more than 130 lumens or so everyday, it really is almost the perfect EDC.

 

[jon_slider]

heres a link to the L08 review, and the L10
note, with Eneloop batteries, they all have similar 130 lumen high with n219, and 155 lumen with XP-G2

One thing I really like about the L08-10-11c heads is that the LED is set deeper than my other aaa lights. That means the sideview does not blind me when placing the light for tailstanding on my dresser at night.

I also found the larger head works great as a light for my hammock, hanging from a ridgeline, again because it does not blind me, due to the deepset led.

I cant think of anything I do not like about these lights, except they are a bit big and heavier than some others.

They have the lowest price I cant think of, for off the shelf N219 (there may be a Lumintop Clickie Copper Tool with N219 in the pipeline.. send me private message if youre interested in the offsite link)

 

[7tisix]

Agree about modes: 0.09, 3, 30, and 140 lumens for the Nichia version.

The only change I would make is to raise the "moonlight" to 0.5 lumens.

I like to carry my L11C in the bottom of my pants pocket, underneath my wallet. Makes for a comfortable EDC.

I really like the low moonlight mode at .09. When I wake up in the middle of the night, it is bright enough.

 

[Kudzu]

How have people's lights been holding up? Any issues over time? I'm on a bit of a 219B kick, and thinking of picking up one of these for insomnia nights when I want to read a little bit …

 

[markr6]

How have people's lights been holding up? Any issues over time? I'm on a bit of a 219B kick, and thinking of picking up one of these for insomnia nights when I want to read a little bit …

Holding up well. Same with my L10s. I miss the moonlight since I got the 3 mode version on all three of my lights. But since the reset time to so damn long, I don't use mine much anyway. If I'm using it at night and turn it on, then off, then need to turn it back on to check something within 6 seconds...it comes on in the next mode. Useless. If the reset time was something like 1 second, that would be perfect. 1 second should give anyone enough time to cycle thru the modes without feeling rushed. Hell, I'd even accept 2 seconds. Not 5 or 6 seconds, whatever it is.

The 219B tint on this is perfect. Whiter than white. Looks 5000K to me, but it's listed at 4500K.

 

[jon_slider]

How have people's lights been holding up? Any issues over time? I'm on a bit of a 219B kick, and thinking of picking up one of these for insomnia nights when I want to read a little bit …

My 4 mode w 4500k Nichia L11c is great! Slight battery rattle but I don't mind. I especially like the High mode for a car light. I intentionally got the 4 mode and would do it again. But it would not be my 1st pick for a late night low level reading light because it is a little cooler than the Lumintop Tool w 4000k n219b

one nitpick, the L11c won't quite tail stand unless I unscrew the tail cap a couple turns, because the rubber boot of the switch sticks out a little too far. I like the tailswitch better than on the copper tool, which won't tail stand.

i prefer the stock Tool (18-3-80) because it starts on medium. But if you want one that starts on low, consider the ReyLight (0.8-16-80) TiTool version, still available afaik. The Titool will tail stand, due to the new electronic switch. There was a copper ReyLight tool recently. They show up on ebay occasionally.

Imo the 4000k is nicer at low lumen levels than the 4500k L11c

both the stock Tool and L11c (0.09-3-30-140) share a 3 lumen mode that would probably work well for reading.

 

[KeepingItLight]

I have not had any problems with my L3 Illumination L11C Nichia 219B (4-mode) flashlight.

The tint, mode spacing, beam, switch, form factor, etc., are all excellent.

As Jon reports, the clip protrudes a tiny bit above the rim of the tail cap. The amount is minuscule. Why did they do this?!! Mine can tail-stand, but only on smooth surfaces, and even on those, it rocks a bit.

I agree with Mark about timing. 2 seconds would be fine. 6 seconds is too long.

Nominal mode spacing on the Nichia version is 0.09, 3, 30, and 140 lumens. It's perfect.

 

[markr6]

As Jon reports, the clip protrudes a tiny bit above the rim of the tail cap. The amount is minuscule. Why did they do this?!! Mine can tail-stand, but only on smooth surfaces, and even on those, it rocks a bit.

Supposedly this was fixed. I forget when, but it was certainly after I purchased mine 12/2015. I had an earlier model too and 4 seconds with a Dremel fixed it. No biggie.

 

[jon_slider]

Supposedly this was fixed. (Protruding clip)

Actually on mine it's the rubber boot that sticks up (strangely only when ON), not the clip. I'm going to dremmel the button under the cap 🙂

 

[Kudzu]

Thanks everyone. Definitely food for thought.

But since the reset time to so damn long,

That sounds like it could be a dealbreaker for how I plan to use it. Maybe it's finally time to save up for that HDS rotary … interesting lights keep coming along before I get halfway there …

 

[markr6]

Actually on mine it's the rubber boot that sticks up (strangely only when ON), not the clip. I'm going to dremmel the button under the cap 🙂

I liked the rubber cover on the L10C better than the L11C. It felt more firm and had less play. Not that the L11C is bad, just comparing the two I noticed that.

Wouldn't hurt to hit that plastic switch, but I'm guessing the rubber cover will keep it's profile.

 

[jon_slider]

plastic switch

solved!🙂
sanded down the tip of the L11c plastic switch plunger
tailstands without the rubber cap touching the table now

 

[ronniepudding]

I liked the rubber cover on the L10C better than the L11C. It felt more firm and had less play. Not that the L11C is bad, just comparing the two I noticed...

+1

The L11C switch boot is more 'squishy' feeling than the L10C. I too prefer the latter. At one point I took both switches apart and compared the innards, and tried swapping just the boots. My recollection is that they use subtly different components, and that the swap was not successful.

 

[KeepingItLight]

Supposedly this was fixed. I forget when, but it was certainly after I purchased mine 12/2015. I had an earlier model too and 4 seconds with a Dremel fixed it. No biggie.

Thanks for the tip. I got no Dremel, but now I got the know-how.

Might be able to get some help with this from a friend.

 

[twistedraven]

My L11C is still going strong with no problems, though I don't really ever use it in rough situations. Build, size, UI, tint are all excellent. My only minor complaint is still the tail-switch, which protrudes a bit too far for maximum stability while tailstanding, and is a bit too soft feeling.

The tint isn't quite as accurate as the SW57 binned 219B V1 in my Jaxman E2, but it's still damn good, and the tint consistency from hotspot to spill is the best I've seen of any light. The tint is also satisfactory for indoor use. It seems like the closest to white of any of the SW45 binned 219Bs I have used.

 

[jon_slider]

I got no Dremel

4-600 grit emery paper works fine by hand

My only minor complaint is still the tail-switch, which protrudes a bit too far for maximum stability while tailstanding

mine did that too. I found I could unscrew the tailcap a turn, just for tailstanding, the light works even with it loose.
I decided to grind down the plastic pin under the rubber cap..
4-600 grit emery paper works fine by hand 🙂

 

[Jeff S.]

Been following this thread for a while now. I'm getting married in a month; thinking about getting these for my groomsmen. I'm glad the L11C seems to have overcome the durability issue of its predecessor.

Do you think the L11C would be a good light for non-flashaholics? Thanks