lathe tools, ebay is wearing me out

unterhausen

Enlightened
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Jan 16, 2009
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My limited tool buying funds are tied up in paypal. So I was on ebay for 3 hours last night and ended up with this.

When I regain my strength, I'm going to buy some boring bars and threading/grooving tools. Oh, and some inserts.
 
My limited tool buying funds are tied up in paypal. So I was on ebay for 3 hours last night and ended up with this.

When I regain my strength, I'm going to buy some boring bars and threading/grooving tools. Oh, and some inserts.

That particular cutter is a left handed cutter, which although useful to have in a lathe, is not as useful as the right handed version. The right handed version would be what you use 95%+ of the time when doing turning and facing operations.

Here is a left hand tool:
http://grizzly.com/products/Lathe-Tool-Holder-20mm-Sq-Left-Hand/H8284


Here is the more common/popular right hand tool:
http://grizzly.com/products/Lathe-Tool-Holder-20mm-Sq-Right-Hand/H8283


Will
 
Good buy for $20 :thumbsup:

You probably know that it takes a CNMG-43x insert, and there are lots of those on eBay.

At some time, you may want to pick up spare parts - which are carried by lots of sellers.

Shim seat SM-303

Lock pin LP-56

Clamp CK-21

Clamp screw STC-20

You may never need any of those ... unless you break or lose a part in the middle of a job :eek:
 
The right handed version would be what you use 95%+ of the time when doing turning and facing operations.
Right hand holders do see a lot of use, as many turning operations are done with the cutter advancing toward the head stock. But a left hand holder is also useful. It allows feeding the tool toward the tail stock, and it also allows facing toward the center of the part. A right hand holder will only face from the center toward the outside, which is not possible on solid stock.
 
....A right hand holder will only face from the center toward the outside, which is not possible on solid stock.

A right handed tool is able to face from the outside to the center of a part. (On a part that is not supported by the tailstock)

A "C" shape insert's main corners are 80 degrees. This give 5 degrees of clearance for both turning and facing without changing tools. To do this, the tool shank should be set perpendicular to the axis of the spindle.

Added: Here is a link that shows how a right handed CNMG holder can both face and turn.

http://www.iscar.com/Ecat/familyHDR.asp/fnum/752/app/20/mapp/IS/GFSTYP/M/type/1/lang/EN

Bruceter
 
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To do this, the tool shank should be set perpendicular to the axis of the spindle.
Exactly how I set mine up.


A right hand holder will only face from the center toward the outside, which is not possible on solid stock.
I guess there are more than 1 way to skin a cat, since for 3-4 years I have "only" done facing with right hand tools, and always from the outside towards the center - never from from the center towards the outside :D

In fact, it was only this week on the 7x yahoo group that I learned for the first time that folks do facing from the center towards the outside. I though everyone did facing like me from the outside towards the center :eek:

Heck, I am still cutting threads in Al and mild steel using the "wrong" method - going straight in, without the 29.5 Deg official/sanctioned/approved/common method :wave:

I guess I just like doing things differently :crackup:
DSCF7184.JPG


DSCF7535.JPG



I have even had experienced machinists who have handled my 1xD's gave me kudos on how nice and well made my threads were - just don't let them know I use the "illegal" method :sssh:

Will
 
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That particular cutter is a left handed cutter, which although useful to have in a lathe, is not as useful as the right handed version.
Will
Yeah, I'm not done shopping, just wored out. I have found that left hand tooling is useful sometimes, I just can't remember those times right now :)

I could probably face with it because the position of my compound relative to the cross slide is really adjustable. I have another tool I'm using for that right now though.

I also want to get more toolholders for my BXA toolpost.
 
If you can set it up with the shank paralell to the machine spindle with the insert end near the headstock, you should be able to face and turn with a left hand tool.

Bruceter
 
Just when I thought I had a clue....not.

So I'm looking on ebay for the same reasons as Unterhausen.

Because of the advice here I know what kind of inserts I want to use. But the insert toolholders themselves have different designations, whatever you want to call them. 2 insert holders will take the same insert like MCLNR 16-4D or MCLNR 12-4B. What's the difference? Is there a chart somewhere, or better yet a simple explanation?

Mike
 
Just when I thought I had a clue....not.

So I'm looking on ebay for the same reasons as Unterhausen.

Because of the advice here I know what kind of inserts I want to use. But the insert toolholders themselves have different designations, whatever you want to call them. 2 insert holders will take the same insert like MCLNR 16-4D or MCLNR 12-4B. What's the difference? Is there a chart somewhere, or better yet a simple explanation?

Mike
The most obvious difference between those two toolholders is that the 16 means it has a 1" shank (16/16), and the 12 means it has a 3/4" shank (12/16). The N means negative rake and the R means right hand.

I just do a google search on the part number and read the data sheets. Then I look it up on MSC. Time consuming, that's why I'm taking a break from it for a little while.
 
Thank you gentleman,

The one thing that's still beating me up is the I.C. part of the designation.

And yes Will I was going to try to stick with 3/4" tooling mostly for that reason.

The more I learn, the more I realize I know absolutely nothing.

Mike
 
http://www.mathwords.com/i/inscribed_circle.htm

In essence, an inscribed circle is the largest circle that can be drawn inside a particular shape.

It's a useful idea, since it's hard to describe a triangle insert that may have different tip radius. The 3/32 radius tip will have shorter sides than a 1/32 radius, even though the distance that matters (from the center of the hole to the side) is the same.

Did that help?

Daniel
 
Thank you Daniel,

Yes, it did help. Your explanation was so clear even I could understand it. That's saying a lot.

Is this a good time to mention I was not very good at math when I was in school? Yes, I know. I'm sorry every time I get near my lathe or mill...

Mike
 
You are not alone Mike. I was terrible at math when in school. I passed algebra but never got the higher stuff. Strangely, I ended up a programmer and system administrator. Who knew?

There are many great guides available in books and online. Sometimes you have to learn the jargon to be able to use the tools or formulas, but that's far easier than learning the whole theory behind the math.

My DRO on the mill, for instance, will calculate the proper spots to drill when drilling holes in a circle. It will also figure out how far apart holes need to be when evenly placed along a line, even if that line is not aligned with an edge. It's a great tool to have. :)

Daniel
 
My DRO on the mill, for instance, will calculate the proper spots to drill when drilling holes in a circle. It will also figure out how far apart holes need to be when evenly placed along a line, even if that line is not aligned with an edge. It's a great tool to have. :)

Daniel
Man, I can't wait for my SINO DRO to arrive. Too bad it will be some time in November :crazy:
 
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