I am looking at getting a new spool of solder. I am considering to get a 4 oz. spool of 60/40 lead solder for like 6.87 home depot. I am also considering of getting some more of solder like what I already have. Ace Hardware has a 1 pound of Alpha Metals Flo-temp general electric rosin core solder for $15.99 #11406 Or should I get 1 pound of Alpha Metals lead free flo-temp rosin core solder for $16.49 #21945? For general copper wire soldering I was using a 40/60 solder from alpha metals. Is a 60/ 40 mix easier to use?
lead solder
- Thread starter chewy78
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thekobk
Newly Enlightened
The lead free stuff is junk imho, get the rosen core 60/40.
gillestugan
Enlightened
I agree.
I find the lead free solder hard to use. Lead solder is banned in the European Union, so Im now a criminal as I've bought 60/40 solder from HK.
I find the lead free solder hard to use. Lead solder is banned in the European Union, so Im now a criminal as I've bought 60/40 solder from HK.
Turbo Guy
Enlightened
I use 63/37, it cost more but most quality things do. Lucky for me I purchased a 5 Lb. spool many years ago at a surplus store for $0.50 a pound.:twothumbs
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product.aspx?productid=21-3205
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product.aspx?productid=21-3205
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We went through the "lead free" thing at work the other year.
To cut a long story short, for hobby work, small batch work, prototyping stick with lead solder.
The reason being, the lead free requires a higher melting point, and the fumes it gives off are not good for you. As a hobby solderer you may not have fume extraction etc.
Even so, it's a very good idea to solder with the window open, try and keep your head to one side of the plume of solder smoke.
To cut a long story short, for hobby work, small batch work, prototyping stick with lead solder.
The reason being, the lead free requires a higher melting point, and the fumes it gives off are not good for you. As a hobby solderer you may not have fume extraction etc.
Even so, it's a very good idea to solder with the window open, try and keep your head to one side of the plume of solder smoke.
LLCoolBeans
Flashlight Enthusiast
That's not the half of it.
Do a google search for "tin whiskers".
Do a google search for "tin whiskers".
I'm just waiting for a special low-temp solder (melting temperature 145 °C, Sn50Pb32Cd18), ordered yesterday, only for these rare soldering jobs, where higher temperatures could easily desolder adjacent tiny parts.
Of course I must ventilate my workarea carefully when using solder containing cadmium.
Wulf
Of course I must ventilate my workarea carefully when using solder containing cadmium.
Wulf
65535
Flashlight Enthusiast
I'd stay away from any solder other leaded 60/40 or 63/37 and silver doped solder (not brazing.) Of course that's me, I have have had people tell me recommending rosin core lead solder is a horrible idea and I should never do it. I will admit sometimes flux residue is annoying, but 99% of the time it can be swabbed off with alcohol.
For home electronics soldering, 60/40 tin/lead is just fine. 63/37 is considered a teeny bit better because it has a slightly lower melting point, but I think the difference is minor. Just be sure you get rosin core for electronics work, and have a small enough gage size (I keep a couple of sizes around). A little lasts a long time for most people.
Just run a little fan when you solder (for rosin smoke dispersal) and practice lead precautions (wash hands after handling).
Just run a little fan when you solder (for rosin smoke dispersal) and practice lead precautions (wash hands after handling).
Mr Happy
Flashlight Enthusiast
The difference between 60/40 and 63/37 solder is that the 60/40 solder has a "squishy" phase between liquid and solid. Therefore it can be a little more forgiving if you don't keep the parts perfectly still while the joint is setting. The 63/37 solder solidifies instantly and if you happen to move at the critical moment you will end up with a weak joint.
Illum
Flashaholic
Rosin core with or without silver bearing works way better than the lead free solder....
I prefer silver bearing because it sounds better, I don't recall if theres a difference, but price is same
digitor
Newly Enlightened
I think it's the opposite - you're more likely to get a bad joint with 60/40 because of its longer plastic phase. 63/37 (eutectic) solder is designed to have the smallest plastic phase possible - to make that "critical moment" shorter.
Cheers
Tekno_Cowboy
Flashlight Enthusiast
I use lead-free solder regularly, with no issues. (Granted, my Hakko makes things much easier)
I'd otherwise recommend 63/37, for the reasons mentioned above.
I'd otherwise recommend 63/37, for the reasons mentioned above.
Wow a lot of responses. I use mostly the 40/60 rosin core at work but that stuff don't seam to hold up as well as some 60/40 solder that I tried. I find that some silver bearing works for general copper wire use for me as well as the 60/40 stuff. 60/40,40/60 And 96/4 silver bearing rosin core is easily available by me. I usually use a 40 watt weller sp40l for wire splicing .I am not worried about fumed being produced in our farm shop. I have been around worse. I bought a weller sp23lk for lighter duty work for hobby use. The smaller diameter lead free solder works as good as 60/40 stuff.
I actually found a used 4 oz. spool of 60/40 solder I had laying around. I might still some 60/40 rosin core at radioshack for like $13.00 for a 1 lb. spool. Then i will have a little bit of each to use for different situations.
I actually found a used 4 oz. spool of 60/40 solder I had laying around. I might still some 60/40 rosin core at radioshack for like $13.00 for a 1 lb. spool. Then i will have a little bit of each to use for different situations.
65535
Flashlight Enthusiast
IMO also it's better to use thinner solder, much easier to add more than to add less.
Sabrewolf
Flashlight Enthusiast
Tin whiskers were the reason why the Hubble went crazy a few times
And yes, They are more prevalent in Lead-Free solder than leaded...
Nasty things those whiskers are
They can cause a 600Amp arc gap!
thekobk
Newly Enlightened
I have also found the lead free stuff does not mix well with the older stuff so if you are repairing anything more then a year or so old you don't want that problem.
65535
Flashlight Enthusiast
Lead free and leaded solder are very non compatible. I had never heard about the tin whiskers, but that's just another reason I like lead.
HarryN
Flashlight Enthusiast
If you are experienced with soldering, wire is fine. After using solder paste, I will never go back.
