LED bulb equivalent to a 75 watt halagen

Can I play aggravated consumer for a minute? Maybe PurduePhotog may have some ideas....

The Ecosmart bulb scored like 67 lumens per watt in the DOE caliper tests, and I'm pretty sure that was neutral white or warmer.

This bulb is less than 50 lumens per watt. It's barely more efficient than a lot of cheap Asian PARs.

So, why are we going backward?
 
Can I play aggravated consumer for a minute? Maybe PurduePhotog may have some ideas....

The Ecosmart bulb scored like 67 lumens per watt in the DOE caliper tests, and I'm pretty sure that was neutral white or warmer.

This bulb is less than 50 lumens per watt. It's barely more efficient than a lot of cheap Asian PARs.

So, why are we going backward?

The Ecosmart bulb was 3032 Kelvin (I had to laugh when I read that- it looks like they're sub-binning)

This guy- I don't know- perhaps because it's an outdoor flood? Not a clue.
 
We are going backwards for CRI and normal driver/transformer/electronic losses, along with all the cheap junk that we'll see plenty of as the hobby catches on with mainstream. And, I'd wager that LED dimmer-ability will also add to the efficiency hit.

In one of my closets, I had to replace the 2 60w incan's with 2 40w halogens(we can call them better incans). It took way too long for the CFL's to warm up enough for me to see what I needed to see. And, there were no LED bulbs that are bright enough.

The LED bulbs aren't common enough yet. Many are pushing for lower k and higher CRI so as not to scare the consumer away when they switch, even though the lumen/watt is not as good as it can be. I'll make the assumption that as it becomes more mainstream, and as the junk bulbs are sorted out and avoided, we'll have more efficiency, hopefully within a couple years.

Another area we need to concentrate is heat removal. We'll never get the consumer volume conversion that we're looking for if the LEDs get too hot and don't last any longer than the incan or CFL. These means that the lamps, lighting fixtures, & lighting housings' manufacturers need to start retooling for future bulbs. Most fixtures are horrible at pulling heat away. The LED bulbs need all the help they can get so that we're not stuck with these 6w-8w limitations before meltdown.
Even though I liked the little fans installed in some LED bulbs, that just eats up a little more power, reducing lumen/watt efficiency, and is another point of failure when the little fan clogs up or fails.

I do have an ebay sourced 9 watt LED bulb. Its output is definitely higher K. Its nice and bright but overly too directional. In my 'down pointing' single bulb in the bathroom shower's fixture, its definitely better than the original 60w incan.

I have a couple 6w-7w LED ebay bulbs which perform similarly to the Ecosmart and Sylvania. And, they are a couple years old now and still work fine. There is the slight pause after you hit the switch. You'll notice this if you have mixed bulbs in your fixtures. All my LEDs have this turn on pause.

I gave my opinion on the commonly available Ecosmart and Sylvania here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=273650


Homedepot also has PAR38 Philips LEDs in various outputs and colors. They're about $70 each. I'm tempted to grab 4 for the kitchen recessed lighting but they don't have 4 of the same color and output. Must be a poor seller since their shelf space is very minimal now.
http://www.lighting.philips.com/us_...rent=0&id=us_en_application_solutions&lang=en
 
The LED bulbs aren't common enough yet.

Their popular Ecosmart hit 67 lumens per watt at designated CRI and CCT, so the engineering is already there. It's like, you'd think they'd expect their customers who are reasonably tech savy to read the bulb specs and wonder why there's a difference. Given the fact it's a PAR38 with much more than 2x the heat-sink area over the Ecosmart thermal shouldn't be a problem. This leaves driver efficiency, or perhaps they had to resort to a cheaper emitter to hit a profit margin. {shrug}

Also, most of the generic Asian PARs don't even know what CRI or CCT is given they just stuff LEDs in a common fixture and copy the specs from the LED web-site. Only the big guys really fuss over bins, driver optimization, or out the front CRI / CCT.

It just irritates me that Cree's have hit over 100lumens per watt in neutral, and Rebels around 90, so why are we getting a < 50 lumen per watt bulb unless we're starting with a mediocre emitter. A single T5HO fixture on the DOE site scored 48lumens per watt, so it's not like LED PARs are just competing with only LED fixtures.
 
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