LED Drop-in in a Surefire G2?

[whitedoom34]

Hello CPF! I recently and very fortunately recieved a Wolf Eyes D26 Digital Q2 Cree LED 3.7-6V *2-Mode (High & Low). I was wondering if it would be ok to run this in a Surefire G2 (incan). Would heat be an issue? If not, what should I do?

 

[Monocrom]

Yes, heat would likely be an issue. Check out Surefire's website. Their G2L model now comes with an aluminum head. Seems heat was killing the Seoul P4 LEDs in the G2L. So Surefire went with an aluminum head to help dissipate heat. (Heat isn't an issue for inca bulbs. That's why the old G2 model is still sold as is).

You do have some options. The least expensive one would be to get an aluminum head from Lighthound.com that would fit onto a G2 body. Do you own a Surefire 6P or similar model? If so, you could use the LED upgrade in that light instead.

 

[whitedoom34]

Unfortunately, I do not have anything else that would fit the drop-in. If i got the metal head from lighthound, would that solve most of my heat issues? Or would I have to buy a G2L to put the dropin in?

 

[Sgt. LED]

Nah, just get the cheap G&P head from Lighthound and you'll be set. I went with the Stainless Steel head myself, and I love it! Filed down the bezel teeth to mere nubs though, for less pocket wearing. I put the new WE Q5 in it, stuck it to a olive G2 body, put in a AW 17670, and stuck on a GITD o-ring and a Novatac clip. It is sweet and TOUGH!

 

[whitedoom34]

Would this be suitable? Light hound has no more G&P ones. I'm pondering wether to buy that or just get a 6P... The problem is that I have an extra G2 and the D26 already... What should I do?

 

[Monocrom]

Unfortunately, I do not have anything else that would fit the drop-in. If i got the metal head from lighthound, would that solve most of my heat issues? Or would I have to buy a G2L to put the dropin in?

An aluminum head from Lighhound would be cheaper than buying a G2L. Plus, with a new G2L, you'd be stuck with an extra LED lamp.

You can get a 2% discount by using the letters CPF (All caps) as a discount code on Lighthound.

Taking a closer look, all three of the after market heads sold by Lighthound have strike bezels. The G2 is not mentioned as being compatable with any of them. But I know for a fact that a 6P head will fit on a G2 body. So I don't see why any of those after market heads would not fit.... since all 3 are mentioned as being compatable with a 6P body.

I'd say send Lighthound an e-mail, and ask if those heads will fit onto a G2 body; since they will fit onto a 6P body. (After all, the new G2L model is using the same head found on the 6PL model. The threads should be exactly the same).

Links to all three of the heads sold on Lighthound....

http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1204

http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3079

http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2894

 

[Sgt. LED]

That (the stainless you linked to) is exactly what I have and I love it on my G2. Zero fitting problems! I highly recommend getting it. You can't buy tougher! Can't stress this choice enough, also think of the savings with this part.

 

[Monocrom]

Would this be suitable? Light hound has no more G&P ones. I'm pondering wether to buy that or just get a 6P... The problem is that I have an extra G2 and the D26 already... What should I do?

I wish I could type faster.

I still think an after market head is the better idea. But if you get the 6P, you could just sell your G2 on B/S/T here on CPF.

 

[Brozneo]

Yes, heat would likely be an issue. Check out Surefire's website. Their G2L model now comes with an aluminum head. Seems heat was killing the Seoul P4 LEDs in the G2L. So Surefire went with an aluminum head to help dissipate heat. (Heat isn't an issue for inca bulbs. That's why the old G2 model is still sold as is).

You do have some options. The least expensive one would be to get an aluminum head from Lighthound.com that would fit onto a G2 body. Do you own a Surefire 6P or similar model? If so, you could use the LED upgrade in that light instead.

I'd back this answer!

 

[Sgt. LED]

Now all we need is 4 more people to support the idea of keeping the G2 and buying a metal bezel for it. The choice of which drop in however is more of a beam preference issue, I too opt for the best of both beam types that WE drop in's offer. Not all flood or all throw, reminds me of Goldilocks and the 3 bears, just right.

 

[Grox]

Yes, heat would likely be an issue. Check out Surefire's website. Their G2L model now comes with an aluminum head. Seems heat was killing the Seoul P4 LEDs in the G2L. So Surefire went with an aluminum head to help dissipate heat. (Heat isn't an issue for inca bulbs. That's why the old G2 model is still sold as is).

I think the truth is a bit more nuanced than that. I think that there is a thermal sensor in the Surefire P60L lamp assembly which reduces limits the power to the LED. This resulted in reduced output but increased runtime. So 'killing' the LED by overheating it was never an issue.

The metal head now allows for higher output at the cost of diminished runtime.

 

[Steve Curtis]

this may be off topic but can you buy just the bezel and not the head from anywhere ?

Back on topic, i was in the same situation as you so i went and got the C2 and solf the G2 , i now have exactly what i want ( other than the bezel )

 

[Monocrom]

I think the truth is a bit more nuanced than that. I think that there is a thermal sensor in the Surefire P60L lamp assembly which reduces limits the power to the LED. This resulted in reduced output but increased runtime. So 'killing' the LED by overheating it was never an issue.

I have to disagree. Heat is a problem for LEDs, but not an issue for inca bulbs. A fully aluminum bezel is better at heat dissipation. Also, we're talking about a company that would not issue a recall for their U2 model.... despite the fact that a significant percentage were DOA out of the box.

Perhaps it was more cost-effective to give out replacement tailcap switches as each individual complaint came in.

My point is, Surefire is not a company that would spend extra money by buying more aluminum heads for future G2L models; just for something as simple as a bit more output or a bit more runtime. I think the problem must have been far more serious than that.

 

[gratewhitehuntr]

so I would have the same heat problem with the Brinkman Maxfire and an LED drop in??

 

[Monocrom]

so I would have the same heat problem with the Brinkman Maxfire and an LED drop in??

It's likely.

The SF G2 at least has some metal under the bezel's polymer exterior. The Maxfire doesn't even have that.

I have both models. The Maxfire is a nice light that, in terms of performance, is the same as a Surefire G2. The Maxfire is a great budget inca for those who want to experience what a 2xCR123 light is capable of.... But it makes a poor host for an LED conversion.

 

[jbviau]

Whitedoom, just responded to your similar post in the P60 thread.

To everyone else here who has recommended a metal head for the G2 as opposed to an all-metal light for continuous runs of high-power drop-ins over 15 minutes or so, here's a simple question: Do you have any evidence to back up the implicit claim that this solves any thermal issues that might crop up?

I'm just curious. Granted, as long as the OP doesn't use his light as a candle on high, heat will never be a problem. But what do you all think about the issue in general? As far as I know, chevrofreak hasn't done output/runtime tests yet on any drop-ins with nitrolon bodies and metal heads. We can assume that if SF went this route, there's some benefit, but that's with a drop-in that is significantly less powerful than the WE drop-in that the OP mentions.

In order for the head to make a really big difference, there would have to be good contact between the drop-in and the head (right?). Is this the case for a G2 with an aftermarket drop-in? I've got a WE drop-in in my G2, and the only contact I see that the drop-in definitely makes with the light is (a) the thin contact spring touching the inner metal tube in the body of the light, and (b) the front of the drop-in resting on the glass/lexan lens. My Malkoff drop-in seats in (and makes contact with) the head much more significantly.

Anyway, I tend to think that if one is worried about heat, an all-metal light would be the best bet. Buying a relatively cheap metal head that's not guaranteed to be effective in managing heat may end up costing more $$ in the long run if the drop-in has to be replaced, no?

 

[whitedoom34]

Thank you EVERYONE for your help! To answer one of the questions you are all asking, I would be using the light for about 20 min at a time. That is an estimate, but I think that you get the picture. Now, I think my question is, will a metal head be sufficient to handle that 20 min? Again, thank you so much for your help.