LED Fixture. Please help with just about everything.

[sexy shrimp]

Would those of you who are really good with LEDs help me? I know next to nothing, and i need help with a project. First, look at this. http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=176628 Its pretty much all in the first post. I dont want to spend the money to buy his kit, but i want to build it. :laughing: They dont leave a lot of information about how it is made, obviously so people will buy it instead, but any help from what out can tell would be greatly appreciated. I know there are several ways to do this, so what would be cheap yet reliable? I do want the pot dimmers and all that stuff. I know he is using 4 Q5 whites (1A), 5 Cree blues (700mA), and one UV (700mA). Thanks again for everything. Schematics would be awesome too for those who are bored and want something to work on. lol
Thanks again for everything. :twothumbs

 

[R33E8]

Dimmers:

http://www.ledsupply.com/03021-a-e-700.php

http://www.ledsupply.com/03021-a-e-1000.php

All you have to do is wire them up according to the datasheet.

Emitters:

UV:
http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1690

Cree R2 (only a few cents more than the Q5 and a bit brighter)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15943

Blue:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1775

Connect the Blue and UV in series to one of the 700mA buckpuck and the 4 R2's in series to the second 1000mA buck puck..

Heatsink:

Since I don't know what exact size you are looking for, just search Google for extruded or bonded-fin heatsink.

 

[sexy shrimp]

Wow, thank you so much. So let me get this straight. The dimmers will simply be after the buck pucks? As far as power supply, what should i use? I dont think the heat sunk will be a problem. I am just not sure how to connect it all together. Maybe a schematic? Also, since LEDs need a constant current how would i wire in the resisters and such? Thanks again

 

[sexy shrimp]

never mind, i just realized i would not use resistors, so i would just use a single 24 volt power supply, or if i choose to do a sunrise sunset effect then i would need two?

 

[blasterman]

If I were building it I might consider ditching the UV LED (what's the point?) and mixing blue and royal blue LEDs.

Royal Blues will produce an even stronger fluoresce in soft corals and polyps, and spread the usable spectrum around a bit.

 

[sexy shrimp]

Im not sure why i want the UV LED, just that it looks relly nice in that fixture, and i want it like that one. The next question is do i have to buy two buckpucks or could i make something like this. http://www.instructables.com/id/Circuits-for-using-High-Power-LED_s/ Also, could i make two of those at 700ma and 1000ma, just like the buckpucks and string the blues to the 700 and the whites to the 1000, or would it not work out? I would want to use the one pictured in step 10 with the pot dimmers. How would i do that?

 

[sexy shrimp]

I think i will just do the buckpucks with the extra trim pot attachment. For the two attachments and pucks its $46. Not too bad, and the LEDs are around 50 bucks so about 96 far. Because of the two pucks, would i have to drive it with two separate power supplies? Or could i use just one. And what voltage and amperage would that be? Also how would i keep the old power cord and switch? Thanks for putting up with my deficiencies.

 

[blasterman]

Also, I'd use a deeper sand bed than in the pics. Helps keep nitrates under control.

 

[evilc66]

You know, you could have just asked me for the help What, you didn't think I would be on here too?

The UV is there for a good reason. Certain types of coral do better in the presence of UV light. It's not for appearance as you see virtually no visible effect from it.

And for the sand bed blasterman. It's only a 4 gallon tank and it's a little thinner at the front than everywhere else.

 

[blasterman]

Certain types of coral do better in the presence of UV light

Name one.

The LED in question emits at 410nm, which if were generous is at the extreme of Chlorophyll A and not much use for photosynthesis. While the amount of UV emitted is quite small and borderline UV/visible light that likely won't hurt anything, the fact remains it's of little or no use for photosynthesis.

There's a reason big HID's can kill coral when you change bulbs - UV. Corals (soft and hard) respond to UV by changing color for the same reason your skin blisters and turns red. Nothing healthy about it.

Royal Blue LEDs however emit light in a usable spectrum for photosynthesis and will likely be more benefit.

 

[evilc66]

I never claimed that it was added for photosynthesis. If you research a little more into the light response of sps corals and clams, you will find that they respond to wavelengths outside the 400-700nm range of the PAR curve. You will also find that all MH (even behind glass) and a lot of the newer T5 bulbs are emmiting long wavelength UV around the 385-400nm range (UV-A is 315-400nm).

 

[sexy shrimp]

Holy cow you are everywhere. Thanks again man, and i really did not mean to go behind your back. Im just big on second, and third, and somethimes fourth opinions. I am still not sure on how all this works. I guess I am just gonna have to wait until your awesome guide gets published. lol Thanks again evil.

 

[evilc66]

If you have any questions about getting it set up and mounted, give me a shout on NR.

 

[sexy shrimp]

Thanks Evil.

 

[LEDcen]

Hi sexy shrimp,

You can check out the effects of what our company built using acrylic rods and narrow beamed LED's in our aquarium.

I find that the narrow beams have a better effects than higher power (higher angles)

go to www.ledcentury.ca and its in the gallery