LED Landscape Lighting

[RDM70]

Hello, hopefully I am posting this in the right section, if not my apologies. I am hoping someone can help me, I would like to install a half dozen LED landscape lights on the posts at the gate of our property as well as a couple of LED floodlights, one on either side of the entrance to illuminate two 25' flagpoles I plan to install. The concern I have is that the entrance is roughly 1000 feet from the nearest available power source (our house). I know that running 120V's that distance would require a very low gauge wire and would be very expensive, I have also considered solar powered LED's but would like to leave that as a last resort having had issue with some in the past. Is it possible to run LED's with that distance between the power source and the LED's using low voltage, less expensive wire? If so any suggestions on gauge of wire needed and what I should consider when purchasing lights? Also if possible would I have to use a higher voltage transformer at the power source than the one typically supplied with landscape lights due to the distance? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[justartifacts]

In your place try the organization known as Hydroscape. Scenery provide home. They will have what you are looking for regarding LED lighting for landscape lighting. I am not associated.

 

[asimba2]

You might consider a small solar panel, charge panel and a battery to power it all remotely. To get you started look at solar powered gate setups,which have similar components. You'll have to size your panel and battery(s) for your estimated use.

 

[SemiMan]

You might consider a small solar panel, charge panel and a battery to power it all remotely. To get you started look at solar powered gate setups,which have similar components. You'll have to size your panel and battery(s) for your estimated use.

Not sure where you live but count on $5-10 / foot for trenching.

Not sure how much total power you need, but solar may be an option. Go with 12V lighting and roll your own power solution. Just don't try to scrimp on the solar aspect or yes, you will regret it. Try to keep your power requirements "low" too ... perhaps 20-40 watts may. You may still invest $1200+ on solar equipment (or more) to power it and you will have to replace the batteries say every 3-5 years.

I guess it all comes down to how much you want it?

 

[ChrisJ]

This appears to be a very old thread but I thought I would provide some useful info for anyone interested. There is a formula for calculating voltage drop with 12v lighting: total watts x length of the run divided by the cable constant x 2. Therefore, if this guy used six 5w LED luminaries, the calculation would look like this: 30w x 1000' = 30,000 divided by 11,920 (cable constant for 10/2 stranded cable) would be 2.516 x 2= 5.03 volts drop. He would need to use a pro-grade multi-tap transformer with a 15v output. If he starts with 15v input, he will end up with 9.97v at his fixtures. (15v - 5.03 drop = 9.97)
Most quality LED lamps and/or integrated fixtures have an operating range of 8-15 volts so this would work but it would be cutting it close. Using 8 gauge cable would obviously decrease the voltage drop but the cable is not cheap. Hope this helps.

 

[SemiMan]

The OP was not planning to run 12V that long, but 120V.

Most people just use the amperage and resistance of the cable.

 

[ChrisJ]

The OP was not planning to run 12V that long, but 120V.

Most people just use the amperage and resistance of the cable.

I'm sorry but I believe you are mistaken. The OP specifically asked about the possibility of a 12v system and suggestions for the proper gauge wire that would be required and I answered that question. Additionally, I would have to question how you would know what method "most people" use to calculate voltage drop.... have you taken a survey of some sort, or do you simply wish to speak for the majority? While calculating voltage drop based on ohms resistance through a certain circular mill size cable is indeed another method of determining voltage drop, it is certainly more complicated and difficult to explain. The method I described above is much easier for a novice installer and quite frankly, either of these methods should only be used to approximate the effective wattage (the estimated wattage requirement of a system, adjusted for voltages less than or greater than 12v). Whichever "desk estimate" is used to determine the approximate final requirements, the "Dynamic Wattage" is what a true lighting professional will use as the final determination and measurement. Dynamic Wattage is the actual on-site measured wattage requirement. Dynamic wattage takes into account the "effective wattage" adjustment as well as other variables that impact system voltage demand such as: quality of connections; actual distance of cable runs; transformer load; actual primary voltage supply and variations in operating lamp voltage. To summarize: both "Nominal" and "Effective" wattage are desk estimates; only Dynamic wattage is actual.
So, RDM70, now you have plenty of information to use or dismiss as you wish. My advice to you, however, is to refer to my original post above and save a few brain cells. I assure you that the advice is quality advice as I have been doing this for many, many years and some folks tend to believe I know what I'm talking about. If you want me to get into the specifics of how the formula works for calculations using the amperage and resistance of the cable that SemiMan referred to, just let me know. That will require another long post but I'll be happy to go into the details for you and thoroughly scramble your brain for no good reason. Hope this helps. Cheers!

 

[James1095]

If possible, I would run 120V the long distance and then locate the 120V>12V stepdown transformer closer to the lights. The higher the voltage, the lower the current required to deliver the same power so the wire required will be much smaller with 120V than with 12V.

 

[SemiMan]

I'm sorry but I believe you are mistaken. The OP specifically asked about the possibility of a 12v system and suggestions for the proper gauge wire that would be required and I answered that question.

Looks in mirror and whacks self upside the head .... been a while since I had read the post and glanced too quickly.