led more powerfull than ssc p7??

Outdoors Fanatic said:
That thread looks extremely interesting, but I still think those new monster LEDs are not meant and will not work properly in flashlight applications-- at least not at its full specs.
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That's just because you think flashlights shouldn't have intercoolers with nitrous spray. Flashlight ricers know better. 😉
 
Benson said:
That's just because you think flashlights shouldn't have intercoolers with nitrous spray. Flashlight ricers know better. 😉
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I wouldn't use ricer, more like flashlight tweakers. Ricers(at least in cars) more often then not, just add more "bling" and "cool" looking stuff to their car that don't add much if any performance to their car.

I think those LEDs can work at full power in a light. I'm thinking something Maglite sized with a thick heatsink.
 
Attempting to heatsink one of those is going to be a B****!

Yet again, please warn everyone around you for ~ 10 meters before turning that on. And post pics of the reconstructive surgeries (to remove the molten, nearly exploded flashlight that recently melted to your hands).🤢
 
Probably author just wanted a flash, not flashlight? =) Buy something like Canon 580EX. 🙂)
 
Just get the "real" A123 Systems battery, I think it is 26650 size with a capacity of 2.3Ah. I know they say their "3.3V" but I go by the normal rating of 3.2V just to make it realistic.

A guy on another forum loaded one of the 26650 M1 cells to 40 amps and the voltage fell to 3.1 volts under that 17C load. Get a shorted Mag barrel, a lot of copper, a fan and a hell of a driver. If I was going for the insane route, I'd run the cells 4 in series and run thermal protection on the LED. If you use it in your car, it will be a good source to jump start your engine in below zero weather.
 
I know this post is a few months old, but I just found it, and it's a good post and helped me find those stronger leds.

If a Li-ion can't take the current (seems obvious it can't, at least not a small li-ion like the 18650), then just use a high drain Li-poly!

The LiFePO although better with the current than regular Li-ions, just suck wen it comes to capacity and are no match for Li-poly.

Okay, I know what your going to say... they are rectangular!

I see two solutions:

1) Get a fatter bodied flashlight and stick it in there (UltraFire TH-1300L or Ultrafire MCD-WF-2000F, for example)

2) Make a square section barrel (get a piece of square section aluminum tubing. For the head connection get it welded to a suitable piece of circular section tubing and thread it, for the tail cap get an end cap sold for those square tubings. Then get the corners rounded off and for the final touch, get it chrome plated! 😛 ).

You can now get a RC airplane type li-poly that fits the tube, they will easily cope with those amps and much more.

No I didn't forget the cooling... no there is no way a normal flashlight head can dissipate enough heat, unless... you temporarily* forfeit waterproofness and stick a fan in it! Yes, make some radial fins on the heatsink and put a 20 x 20 x 10mm fan above it, drill some air intake and exit holes. * you can put a thin (don't worsen the heating) rubber sleeve around the head that you can move to cover the holes.

Okay, I hope you liked my wacky ideas! 😀

Send me a PM with some pics if you build this! 😉


 
Vamp said:
I know this post is a few months old, but I just found it, and it's a good post and helped me find those stronger leds.

If a Li-ion can't take the current (seems obvious it can't, at least not a small li-ion like the 18650), then just use a high drain Li-poly!

The LiFePO although better with the current than regular Li-ions, just suck wen it comes to capacity and are no match for Li-poly.

Okay, I know what your going to say... they are rectangular!

I see two solutions:

1) Get a fatter bodied flashlight and stick it in there (UltraFire TH-1300L or Ultrafire MCD-WF-2000F, for example)

2) Make a square section barrel (get a piece of square section aluminum tubing. For the head connection get it welded to a suitable piece of circular section tubing and thread it, for the tail cap get an end cap sold for those square tubings. Then get the corners rounded off and for the final touch, get it chrome plated! 😛 ).

You can now get a RC airplane type li-poly that fits the tube, they will easily cope with those amps and much more.

No I didn't forget the cooling... no there is no way a normal flashlight head can dissipate enough heat, unless... you temporarily* forfeit waterproofness and stick a fan in it! Yes, make some radial fins on the heatsink and put a 20 x 20 x 10mm fan above it, drill some air intake and exit holes. * you can put a thin (don't worsen the heating) rubber sleeve around the head that you can move to cover the holes.

Okay, I hope you liked my wacky ideas! 😀

Send me a PM with some pics if you build this! 😉
Click to expand...
You really don't need to mess with unstable Li-Poly chemistry, when you have safe IMR cells readily available.
 
sounds interesting, thou i too doubt you can have it in flashlight form (as in tube) with no complications, you'd be more lucky if you put it into a searchlight body, than again it still wont be as bright as maxabeam, thou it sure will be unique light.
good luck with your build, hope you'll amaze us with your outcome.

or you can build a dive light with those leds, heat wont be an issue.
 
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Li-po batteries aren't unstable. They are safest cells to use under high discharge. You can easily get a 20c discharge capable cell. So a 2500 mah cell can discharge at 50 amps! All you need is a way to monitor the discharge so you don't over discharge and a hobby charger and balancer. But there's no way li-ion cells can discharge that high and be safe.
 
Hi - so now we get into some real light - huh. :laughing:

Just a quick point - AW makes very nice Li Ion cells, but it is not a good idea to push the current draw past 2C. (2 x capacity). For a nominal 2.5 AH 18650 cell, this means it should be used at 5 amps max discharge.

If you run it anywhere near 4C (about 9 - 10 amps) then it should be used maybe 4-5 cycles, then tossed.

IMHO, that is an acceptable amount of use - sort of like running an Indy car.
 
I did a bit of researching on the batteries and on the leds an I believe that it is extremely feasible the construction of a 6000 lumens flashlight weighting under 1kg, using the CSM-360-W (85W led)

The fan would be undispensable, but it can be a waterproof type.

The major problem is the price of the stuff! :S The led would come at about 170$ (usd) and the battery about 150$. The regulator could be made with about 50$, but the custom machined body with suitable dissipator would cost no less than 150-200$ (I don't even know how much more for HA-III annodizing) and another 30$ for a charger. So we're looking at a light that could cost >600$ just in parts (not counting labor)! Thus it could never be sold for under 1000$, maybe more, specially if there are additional features like programable modes, etc.

Do you believe that there could be a market for such flashlight?

I've seen the maxbeam and this would come at ~1/5 of the price and +- comparable performance from the 85W Led, with the aditional benefit that the led last 2-3 orders of magnitude longer than the miserable 100h of the bulb on those.

I have the skills to build part of it and know who can help me with the rest, but i'm not sure it's worth making a small production run. Why? simple, the design costs and components testing can easily push the price of the prototype to over 2000$ because everything would be made from scratch, from the circuit board thru the programing to the CAD design.

Early concept:
fl1z.jpg
 
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qwertyydude said:
Li-po batteries aren't unstable. They are safest cells to use under high discharge. You can easily get a 20c discharge capable cell. So a 2500 mah cell can discharge at 50 amps! All you need is a way to monitor the discharge so you don't over discharge and a hobby charger and balancer. But there's no way li-ion cells can discharge that high and be safe.
Click to expand...
I was talking about IMR chemistry (LiMn), not regular Li-Ion (LiCo). Li-Poly is not safe at all, at least not for hand-held devices. Nice chemistry nor R/C cars, planes and boats, though. Yes, they are unstabale, that's why responsible R/C pilots put those battery packs inside especial Fire-Retarding safety bags made for Li-Poly.

An AW 18650 IMR cell can handle 12.8+ Amps safely. There is no leakage, vent-with-flames nor explosion risks. Unlike Li-Poly...
 
Outdoors Fanatic said:
I was talking about IMR chemistry (LiMn), not regular Li-Ion (LiCo). Li-Poly is not safe at all, at least not for hand-held devices. Nice chemistry nor R/C cars, planes and boats, though. Yes, they are unstabale, that's why responsible R/C pilots put those battery packs inside especial Fire-Retarding safety bags made for Li-Poly.

An AW 18650 IMR cell can handle 12.8+ Amps safely. There is no leakage, vent-with-flames nor explosion risks. Unlike Li-Poly...
Click to expand...

Li-Poly aren't dangerous unless misshandled, they are widely used in handheld devices such as cell phones, PDAs, GPS, etc. The biggest risk is the charging process, which requires a special charger. A temperature sensor can (and would) be embbed in the battery pack for added safety.

That AW's 18650 doesn't have a great capacity, better than a LiFePO4, but not fantastic. A Li-poly weighting the same will have more capacity, at least 2300 mAh and handle about 50A, which mean that at the required 6A it will run very cool.
 
Gotta say, vamp's got a point. I'd rather have a flashlight that ran batteries in the middle of their current capability, instead of pushing another battery close to the limit for the same results. So the flashlight will have to accommodate non-cylindrical batteries, so what?

BTW, found some nice sony Li-Polys in Macbook battery. And I also don't think they explode. pop maybe, just as a vinyl balloon might, but not explode. They'd have to contain great pressure first, which is more likely with a metal can than with a plastic bag.

It's too bad li-poly are shaped the way they are. very inconvenient for fitting into a tube
 
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