Okay, I found my set of 3" square, acetate, color printing (CP) filters made by Ilford Cibachrome. CP filters from other manufacturers are similar. They come in different strengths of the primary subtractive colors: Cyan (greenish-blue), Magenta (blueish-red) and Yellow.
MAGENTA FILTER: I experimented with my filters on my greenish beamed ARC LS. The complementary (opposite) color of my LS green is magenta or red, and I tried various strengths of magenta and red (yellow plus magenta) and found that a .05 density Magenta cancelled out the green. .10 density Magenta was too strong, and other combinations of filters created a tint. A .05 Magenta filter cuts output by about 5%, an acceptable loss. You can cut the filter and place it behind the Maglite lens, but it will look crappy with the extra reflection surfaces and the scratches inherent in acetate filters.
GLASS CC Filter: For a glass filter to replace the Maglite lens, you need a CC (color compensating) filter. Try a well-stocked camera store patronized by professional photographers, and ask them to let you try a glass CC in .05 Magenta or whatever gave the best results with the CP filters. Some well-known manufacturers are Tiffen, B+W, and Hoya. Cokin makes hard plastic filters.
DIAMETER: My 2-D cell Maglite has a 52mm diameter lens. My Orange glass, Hoya brand, camera filter, marked 52mm (thread size), is actually 49mm in diameter, too small for the Maglite bezel. Perhaps a 55mm thread size CC filter would be about 52mm diameter. Better to get one too large and grind it down rather than too small. You will need to remove the filter from it's circular mount by removing a retaining ring. Cokin filters are square plastic and must be cut to size. Ask Lenscrafter to help you cut or grind filters to size if necessary.
This is going to be a lot of work, but do-able if you have the time and money. $40 for a CP filter set and $40-$100 for a glass CC filter.
