hemightbecavazos
Newly Enlightened
What is the Lumen output of the Legend LX? Is it worth buying?
Chris
Chris
Legend LX
- Thread starter hemightbecavazos
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hemightbecavazos
Newly Enlightened
Thanks, I think I'll go get one this afternoon.
Chris
Chris
James S
Flashlight Enthusiast
I agree this is an excellent light and recommend it. It's currently the only incandesent light that I use. Course, mine now has a surefire p61 lamp in it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif It hardly counts as a mod it's so easy to do, but you can put a $20 bulb into a $20 light and it's a poor mans surefire. Works great!
One more thing, mine came from ksbman with a B270 glass lense from Flashlightlens.com
The beam looks great with that simple $4.50 change. There, now you have two good suggestions for spiffing up your new LX. But it really is perfectly fine stock too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Mike
The beam looks great with that simple $4.50 change. There, now you have two good suggestions for spiffing up your new LX. But it really is perfectly fine stock too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Mike
Size15's
Flashaholic
Welcome to CPF!
Don't get the LX. In my opinion getting a SureFire G2 or Pelican M6 (PM6) is a far better move.
Al
Don't get the LX. In my opinion getting a SureFire G2 or Pelican M6 (PM6) is a far better move.
Al
BuddTX
Flashlight Enthusiast
[ QUOTE ]
James S said:
I agree this is an excellent light and recommend it. It's currently the only incandesent light that I use. Course, mine now has a surefire p61 lamp in it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif It hardly counts as a mod it's so easy to do, but you can put a $20 bulb into a $20 light and it's a poor mans surefire. Works great!
[/ QUOTE ]
For 15-20 bucks The Legend LX is a GREAT Value! I too have done the P61 Mod!
[ QUOTE ]
Size15s said:
Welcome to CPF!
Don't get the LX. In my opinion getting a SureFire G2 or Pelican M6 (PM6) is a far better move.
Al
[/ QUOTE ]
Again, No Argument here, but I still think that FOR THE MONEY, the brinkmann is a great value.
James S said:
I agree this is an excellent light and recommend it. It's currently the only incandesent light that I use. Course, mine now has a surefire p61 lamp in it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif It hardly counts as a mod it's so easy to do, but you can put a $20 bulb into a $20 light and it's a poor mans surefire. Works great!
[/ QUOTE ]
For 15-20 bucks The Legend LX is a GREAT Value! I too have done the P61 Mod!
[ QUOTE ]
Size15s said:
Welcome to CPF!
Don't get the LX. In my opinion getting a SureFire G2 or Pelican M6 (PM6) is a far better move.
Al
[/ QUOTE ]
Again, No Argument here, but I still think that FOR THE MONEY, the brinkmann is a great value.
radellaf
Flashlight Enthusiast
You can't put the G2 in flood mode like the LX can do. Dunno about the Pelican M6.
Size15's
Flashaholic
The whole LX is just naff in my opinion. It's got a huge bezel and it's heavy. The switch is perhaps the worse I've ever used. It was a waste of £20 when I got it.
Al
Al
Al,
I will agree, the LX switch is a bit stiff, but not as bad as the on on the NexStar series. For the money, the LX is an excellent light! Sure in its current form it's never going to be an edc, but still a great light.
Defectfully
Patrick
I will agree, the LX switch is a bit stiff, but not as bad as the on on the NexStar series. For the money, the LX is an excellent light! Sure in its current form it's never going to be an edc, but still a great light.
Defectfully
Patrick
4x4Dragon
Flashlight Enthusiast
the tailcap on my LX got pretty stiff only after it was modded(1 watt Cyan/ 30mm optics-AWESOME by the way). actually it's pretty stiff which i think is a GOOD thing for lights that don't have a tailcap lock-out feature, no accidental constant-on problems. I guess mister "surefire" that's posting here has butter fingers and must prefer the "flawless" SF Z57 switch!
a good way to EDC this light is to take the rubber head piece off of a Brinkmann Rebel LED and put it on the LX. the rubber piece from the Rebel LED has a hanging piece/clip.
a good way to EDC this light is to take the rubber head piece off of a Brinkmann Rebel LED and put it on the LX. the rubber piece from the Rebel LED has a hanging piece/clip.
PlayboyJoeShmoe
Flashaholic
I agree it's a GREAT light... for the money. It was my first CR123 light.
However! I find the switch to be unagreeably stiff. I have the LX, a G2 with a Kroll clickie, a PM6 stock, and a TT2L.
I use the G2 around the house more than any other because it's easier to use than the LX or M6. The 2L is my EDC primary!
If the LX switch was just a smidgen easier, it would get a lot of house use.
However! I find the switch to be unagreeably stiff. I have the LX, a G2 with a Kroll clickie, a PM6 stock, and a TT2L.
I use the G2 around the house more than any other because it's easier to use than the LX or M6. The 2L is my EDC primary!
If the LX switch was just a smidgen easier, it would get a lot of house use.
radellaf
Flashlight Enthusiast
I'll stick to a rechargeable Stinger for the times I want that much blinding brightness inside the house, but the LX makes an excellent glovebox light. It (plus 4xCR123), plus a white Inretech 2AA, plus my Arc AAA and I feel comfy.
I tend to EDC whatever's newest, which is now that A2. Much fun to play with, though, darn, I wish it would stay on without having to twist the cap. Seems like that would be a royal PITA for tactical use unless they just hold the button down the whole time they're using it. But, given a choice of two brightnesses or a clickie, I'll take the A2.
I tend to EDC whatever's newest, which is now that A2. Much fun to play with, though, darn, I wish it would stay on without having to twist the cap. Seems like that would be a royal PITA for tactical use unless they just hold the button down the whole time they're using it. But, given a choice of two brightnesses or a clickie, I'll take the A2.
Size15's
Flashaholic
Generally, and this is only based on what I've read and spoken to people who do have experience, generally, the use of light in a "tactical" situation is more effective when used in flashes and bursts rather than constant-on.
Of course, it is best not to rule anything out when lives are on the line, and to train and experiment with a wide variety of methods so that you give yourself as many options as possible when in a situation.
How about?
Two-stage pressure and click - push for LED momentary, and harder to click constant-on, push harder for white (which unlatches the first click so letting go at this point switches the light off) and push harder to click white constant-on. Clicking white off turns the light off.
I guess "what is your idea switch" topic is for a new thread if people want to discuss it.
Al /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Of course, it is best not to rule anything out when lives are on the line, and to train and experiment with a wide variety of methods so that you give yourself as many options as possible when in a situation.
How about?
Two-stage pressure and click - push for LED momentary, and harder to click constant-on, push harder for white (which unlatches the first click so letting go at this point switches the light off) and push harder to click white constant-on. Clicking white off turns the light off.
I guess "what is your idea switch" topic is for a new thread if people want to discuss it.
Al /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
radellaf
Flashlight Enthusiast
Convert to new thread if you like...
I guess it would be easier to twist to constant-on if, say, the body of the light were clipped securely to your gun or something. To be honest, a switch like the Arc-White would suit me better, though I am kinda liking using it for short bursts of damn-bright-light. I wonder how long the bulb with last being turned on and off like that, though. Well, should do better in the A2 than anything else, as it has the soft-start feature.
Gads, that switch you describe would be a bear mechanically, but it sounds wonderful. I forget how the Arc LS4 is going to work, but I know it manages at least two brightnesses with one momentary switch.
I did some testing and it seems the A2 uses a 4.5V lamp, dunno what current, though it pulls 1.5A from the batteries. It also falls out of regulation about at 4.5V. Only problem with that is that CR123s seem to have a lot of life left at that point, they just can't hold their voltage at higher loads. 150-250mA driving a X5 head they handle OK, but stick a 800mA maglite bulb on a pair and their voltage sinks to 4.4 or so pretty fast. Some really dead 123s supply 4.5V to the X5 just fine, and drop to 1.5V under that load. Some sort of odd passivation effect in the batteries it seems. Something beyond just higher internal impedance.
I guess it would be easier to twist to constant-on if, say, the body of the light were clipped securely to your gun or something. To be honest, a switch like the Arc-White would suit me better, though I am kinda liking using it for short bursts of damn-bright-light. I wonder how long the bulb with last being turned on and off like that, though. Well, should do better in the A2 than anything else, as it has the soft-start feature.
Gads, that switch you describe would be a bear mechanically, but it sounds wonderful. I forget how the Arc LS4 is going to work, but I know it manages at least two brightnesses with one momentary switch.
I did some testing and it seems the A2 uses a 4.5V lamp, dunno what current, though it pulls 1.5A from the batteries. It also falls out of regulation about at 4.5V. Only problem with that is that CR123s seem to have a lot of life left at that point, they just can't hold their voltage at higher loads. 150-250mA driving a X5 head they handle OK, but stick a 800mA maglite bulb on a pair and their voltage sinks to 4.4 or so pretty fast. Some really dead 123s supply 4.5V to the X5 just fine, and drop to 1.5V under that load. Some sort of odd passivation effect in the batteries it seems. Something beyond just higher internal impedance.
