LEO First Impressions: L4/McE2S Tangent

sgtlmj

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Dec 28, 2004
Messages
53
Location
MI, USA
You may remember in my previous post that I was in a quandry about a LED backup/EDC light. I got several lights to test and came up with the L1 as the winner for dept. issue. Small, 2-stage, 1 cell, good throw. Can't go wrong with that.

In my testing I got an L4 and right away discovered that it was too bright for most uses. On suggestion of several folks here I ordered a McTailcap w/ 22ohm board.. I first got a Trim, but could not reliably activate it with gloved hands. Cindy was great about it and traded it out for a Standard.

I have EDC'd this thing for almost two weeks now and I love it! I started with the Standard cap, then installed the McE2S module in the Z57 cap for a while. I found that the button was too easily pushed while carrying in my pocket, so moved back to the Standard.

I've used it a lot. I just ran through the original batteries yesterday. The low setting was still the same, and the high would be a bit brighter before dimming to the low setting. I put the batteries in my 6P and it wouldn't make the filament glow at all. I saved the batts, and will see how long they take to run dry one of these days.

I just ordered a KL1 head to play with. I'll have a light with the same throw as the L1, with more versatility. I saw a post on here about the Exec. series being like Legos. They certainly are. I also have a M651 Scout light on my M4 carbine, and will be able to swap out KL1 or KL4 heads if needed. I can also swap out the tape switch for the clickie cap or even the McTailcap if I wanted to get really crazy with it. May even get an E1e type body one of these days too.

I'm sold on the Exec. series, and the McTailcap makes the lights 100% more useful than they are out of the box. I wonder if SF has had a look at this simple mod, rather than making their lights an inch longer than they need to be for the sake of a regulated first stage.

Thanks for the suggestions! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

l4.jpg
 
I concur! I concur!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy14.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy14.gif
You'll be perfect if you get pila or 17670 batts!
That will help you a lot more feeding your duty back up light! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

PS : If you get free 123s, then never mind. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
sgtlmj,

Thanks for sharing! It sounds like, that similar to myself and many others here on the CPF, that the L4 with a McGizmo two stage tailcap is working out very well for you.

I currently have one, with the Trim tailcap, also as 22 ohm, and it is perfect for my usage. I am glad to know others feel the same way.

Thanks for sharing, and enjoy your light!

All My Best,
John
 
In the beggining you didn't really like the L4 if I remember correctly, now it has become your favorite! I knew it was coming, it always does.
Thanks for the indepth input with hands on experience!
 
Nice setup. I have a similar setup and I love it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif

Jeff
 
Lance,
Luxlover here writing from Brooklyn NY, admiring your choice in lights and accessories. The McE2S resistor board I am using with my L4 is 60 ohms. I chose this value because I figured that if I need a "wall of light" all of the time, I can have that with a stock Z57 tailcap. But I know that there will be many times when I will need just a little light to get around in a very dark place, while at the same time not disturb my dark adapted vision.

I do notice that many users of this switch are using the 22 ohm resistor board. My selection of 60 ohms was made by comparing the low level output of my L1 (modded with a Luxeon III emitter and a 17mm reflector), using a variable resistor attached to the light with cables and clips. Turning the resistor knob changes the output of the light. This means that I was able to pin down the resistance needed in the L4 on low, to be roughly equivalent to that of the L1 on low, which is about 2 lumens. The resistance value of 60 ohms on the variable resistor made this happen. Now if a user needs something brighter than 2 lumens at the low level, such as 15 lumens which is what the L2 on low is advertised to be offering, then I guess that the 22 ohm board was a reasonable choice. If you would like to experiment with your L4, either get a variable resistor and do what I did, or consult with Don McLeish about your preferred level of brightness on low.
 
Hello SgtLmj,

I run my L4 with a Pila 168s. I prefer a bit more light on low and went with a 10 ohm resistor. I am very happy with it.

It is amazing how the two stage tail switch can transform this light.

Tom
 
Sorry to barge in here. I got an L4 in the post and was about to buy an McE2s switch. I'm just not sure what resistor value to go for. luxlover went for 60 Ohm, since I haven't got a L1 I can't visualize how bright/ dark that is. I want something like ARC AAA output on low, what resistor value would I roughly need? Thanks
 
Hello X33,

I think you should ask that question in the McGizmo forum. I seem to recall a chart by K-T showing the effects of the various resistors and believe there was a reference to the ARC AAA as well. It is in one of the stickies at the top.

Tom
 
Thank you SilverFox, I think I remember seeing the chart you refer to. Forgot about it. cheers
 
I went with the 22ohm for a middle of the road choice. I'm also getting a 30ohm to try. I need a mid level setting for the following reason:

I see a lot of people say that the white LED's are just too sharp, and make harsh shadows. Well, I'm a certified man-tracker, and in our class the USMC Scout/Snipers taught us to use low powered LED lights to help locate tracks at night. You do this by holding the light parallel to the ground and the tracks really jump out at you. With LED's you also throw less of a signature for others to see you than with incan's.

See... Another advantage to LEDs.

PS. I have an Aleph 1x123 HA power pack on the way to play with.

PPS. If you are in doubt about which resistor board to get, buy a couple. They are only $3.50!
 
Just been looking at the chart, even a beamshot there ARC AAA vs L4 with 30 ohms. 30 might be good compromise brightness and runtime. Great idea about getting several boards. The tracking sounds interesting stuff. Sure wish I had the time to learn it.
 
I have a 30 Ohm on my L4 and its just a little brighter than my CMG Infinity Ultra on An Energizer Lithium AA. Also on low with the 30 Ohm the L4's doughnut really shows (at least on my light).


Aloha
 
[ QUOTE ]
Braddah_Bill said:
I have a 30 Ohm on my L4 and its just a little brighter than my CMG Infinity Ultra on An Energizer Lithium AA. Also on low with the 30 Ohm the L4's doughnut really shows (at least on my light).

[/ QUOTE ]

Mmmmmm.... donut. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
Got my L4 today. Awesome light. Bit greenish tint but I don't mind. Ordered a 30 Ohm switch. Thanks for all the help.
 
[ QUOTE ]
sgtlmj said:
[ QUOTE ]
Braddah_Bill said:
I have a 30 Ohm on my L4 and its just a little brighter than my CMG Infinity Ultra on An Energizer Lithium AA. Also on low with the 30 Ohm the L4's doughnut really shows (at least on my light).

[/ QUOTE ]

Mmmmmm.... donut. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Donuts, didn't see that coming. you cops are all the same.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I use the same low technique to track animals, and I agree it is very effective.
 
Have been EDCing the L4/McE2S for a few weeks now. It's been getting a ton of use, including a search warrant on a meth lab and related vehicles a few nights ago. The light was on for hours and had no problems. Had it clipped to the brim of my hat a few times and got strange looks from the drug team guys. They just don't understand flashaholism I guess.

I actually went back to the trim tailcap. The standard was digging into my pocket a bit, and this trim works better than the first one I had. Don't really know what the diff is. I also swapped out the 22ohm board for a 30ohm. I like it a little better for what I do. Best part of all of this is that I'm building up a supply of parts. I got the Aleph 1x123 power pack in, and have a KL1 head on order for that. I'll get another McE2S assembly to put in the standard tailcap w/ the 22ohm, and I'll have a great little light for the center console of my Jeep.

I also just found out that LEOs can order direct from SF with a 25% discount. Just go through the voicemail thing at SF and select the LEO/Military option. you will have to show proof, of course, but they are great about helping us out. They also sent me 3 new B90 batts for my 8NX for free. Turns out the lot numbers on the B90's I had were bad.
 
I got a 30 Ohm tailcap for my L4 as well and its sweet. Just the right amount of light on low.
 
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