Liteflux LF2XT (Part 3)

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Thanks for the heads up BabyDoc, just ordered one. BTW, does anyone know what type and size of pliers I need to tighten the LED module in the head? Mine has worked itself loose and the holes are very, very tiny. I've had to use a pencil eraser to screw it back in but I would like to tighten it properly.
 
tygger said:
Thanks for the heads up BabyDoc, just ordered one. BTW, does anyone know what type and size of pliers I need to tighten the LED module in the head? Mine has worked itself loose and the holes are very, very tiny. I've had to use a pencil eraser to screw it back in but I would like to tighten it properly.
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You can find the pliers with very pointed ends at a hobby or craft store. I use some tweezers with pointed ends, but don't recall where I got them.

I don't know if these have small enough tips, but you could PM Jay and get more info.: http://flashlightconnection.com/Flashlight-Tools-and-Supplies/Mini-Needle-Nose-Pliers-p46.html

Also, there were some posts early on in one of the long LF2XT threads (maybe this one!) about this. The point was made to not insert your pliers/tweezers into the tiny holes in the PCB, as this could stretch and break wires, but rather to use the small notches on the outside of the entire pill.
 
AFAustin said:
Also, there were some posts early on in one of the long LF2XT threads (maybe this one!) about this. The point was made to not insert your pliers/tweezers into the tiny holes in the PCB, as this could stretch and break wires, but rather to use the small notches on the outside of the entire pill.
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Gotcha. Yeah, I wouldn't touch the PCB. I tightened it slightly with a large sewing needle using the pill notches on the side. Unfortunately ever since I noticed it was loose it has started to malfunction, not turning on, not turning off, etc. Even after a little tightening so it doesn't rattle, it still is not working properly. Sent elite an email about it. Anyone else have this problem?
 
bluewater said:
Looks like I'll be sticking with my nano charger. 😕
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The most difficult portions in the charger assembly instruction should be:
Lower the charging current by replacing the resister indicated with one specified below. (protection & charger unit )

charge current select
0.33R --> 300mA
1.0R --> 100mA
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The charge current select resistor shown in the photo is R330 which should correspond to the 0.33R resistor in the charger assembly instruction, and should be replaced with 1.0R resistor to accommodate the proper charging current of 100mA for 10440 Li-ion with 300 mAh capacity (i.e. proper charging current for Li-ion should be 1/2 * C or smaller, and it should be 1/2 * 300 = 150 mA or smaller for 10440).
The first question is what 0.33R and 1.0R stand for?
My best guesses are 330 ohms and 1000 ohms respectively, but still wait for confirmation by LiteFlux.
The second question is that is it easy to de-solder this surface-mounted 0.33R resistor and then solder a new surface-mounted 1.0R resistor with a regular soldering-iron?
 
I'm pretty sure you will need a very low wattage - pencil style soldering iron for working on tiny electronics , so they don't overheat. Also a tiny tip is needed. Be sure to "tin" it with solder when new.

.
 
Actually, they look amazingly like these pix which was posted by Mountech, the mad scientist that resides deep within LF's factory. http://my3c.com/D5/viewthread.php?tid=8721&extra=page%3D2

The signature that appears on the limited edition card is Mountech's.

The one that looks like mine is the one he deleted after I called him and asked him about it.
 
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tygger said:
Thanks for the heads up BabyDoc, just ordered one. BTW, does anyone know what type and size of pliers I need to tighten the LED module in the head? Mine has worked itself loose and the holes are very, very tiny. I've had to use a pencil eraser to screw it back in but I would like to tighten it properly.
Click to expand...
I used just a pin to tighten mine,just alternate sides :thumbsup:
 
BabyDoc said:
This should be good news for fans of the R2 who live in the US.
I just got this message from EliteLED:

Hi Bill,

I'm glad to inform you that LiteFlux made a special run on LF2XT with Cree XP-E R2 White LEDs (WH bin). The quantity is very limited, and the cost was much higher. We have them in stock just now. If you like white tint LEDs, it's the chance before they're gone.

http://www.eliteled.com/products/flashlights/liteflux-lf2xt-r2.html

Cheers!!


Thanks,

EliteLED Sales
www.EliteLED.com
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I got that email too. I was planning on grabbing one of these but a couple things have changed my mind for now. First - EliteLED probably includes the USB charger that Liteflux says is included with this R2 bin but EliteLED does not say they include the charger so I'd need to know about that before ordering one. Also USB chargers are dirt cheap and that by itself is not enough to want to pay $75 for this light. And while I still consider this a sweet light for $75 it just doesn't fit the overall pricing of Liteflux in many ways. Most smaller lights are cheaper than bigger ones - sure this is their latest with an R2 bin but an R2 bin doesn't cost almost $20 more than a lower bin. Usually an R2 bin runs just a couple dollars more - maybe $3 or $4. Yet this is the most expensive light in their lineup. But possibly the biggest issue for me is the WH tint - not my favorite in a 'cool LED'. I prefer WC and find WH to be too yellow for my taste.
 
I got that letter as well... and thought about it for a nansecond... but I'm so happy with the LF2XT I have and the tint/beam of it, that I decided buying another would result in having yet another light sitting around unused. SO, I spent the money on another Quark...a Q 123x2 which I will run with a 17650.

The next Liteflux I buy will be an updated AA model or an 18650 model, which ever comes first.
 
@ DHart yes 100% on a updated single AA liteflux,I'm very happy with the LF2XT as the tint is fine for my purpose but! bring on a AA light with the same features as LF2XTwith a higher output it'll be a winner IMO 😀
 
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matrixshaman said:
I got that email too. I was planning on grabbing one of these but a couple things have changed my mind for now. First - EliteLED probably includes the USB charger that Liteflux says is included with this R2 bin but EliteLED does not say they include the charger so I'd need to know about that before ordering one. Also USB chargers are dirt cheap and that by itself is not enough to want to pay $75 for this light. And while I still consider this a sweet light for $75 it just doesn't fit the overall pricing of Liteflux in many ways. Most smaller lights are cheaper than bigger ones - sure this is their latest with an R2 bin but an R2 bin doesn't cost almost $20 more than a lower bin. Usually an R2 bin runs just a couple dollars more - maybe $3 or $4. Yet this is the most expensive light in their lineup. But possibly the biggest issue for me is the WH tint - not my favorite in a 'cool LED'. I prefer WC and find WH to be too yellow for my taste.
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1+. I think a $15 premium for an R2 just isn't worth it to me. The color rendition of the original LF2XT is just great, and far better than any R2 I own, and far better than I expected when I ordered my lights. I know that a limited run of only 100 lights makes this more costly to produce, but to call this a limited edition would suggest some collectible value, which it doesn't have, at least in my opinion.
 
BabyDoc said:
1+. I think a $15 premium for an R2 just isn't worth it to me. The color rendition of the original LF2XT is just great, and far better than any R2 I own, and far better than I expected when I ordered my lights. I know that a limited run of only 100 lights makes this more costly to produce, but to call this a limited edition would suggest some collectible value, which it doesn't have, at least in my opinion.
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+1:devil:
 
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