Liteflux LF2XT (Part 3)

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Good point... the reflector was probably spec'd for use with an XR-E emitter and then decision to use the XP-E emitter came at the last minute?

I don'tthink so, the hole is too small to fit over the ring or the dome of a Cree. It is probably made that way to put the XP-E into the correct focal point for the shape of that reflector.
 
I don'tthink so, the hole is too small to fit over the ring or the dome of a Cree.

Yes, you are right! On closer observation, I see that the hole is too small for an XR-E.

I sure do love the XP-E emitter vs the XR-E... I have two lights now with the XP-E (LF2XT and Quark) and the beams they each put out are fantastic! It's a lot more difficult to get that clean, ring-free beam with an XR-E emitter (even though Liteflux showed it could be done with the LF3XT!)
 
What LiteFlux did with the LF3XT is stipple the hell out of the reflector to get rid of the Cree ring. That can be done with any reflector to get a smooth beam, but a lot of output is lost. I put an McR17 into my LF3XT and gained 30lm according to my lightbox.

Another example are the 4 die emitters that give a donut hole, the same can be done with those reflectors, but a lot of output is lost. This is based on my experimenting.
 
What LiteFlux did with the LF3XT is stipple the hell out of the reflector to get rid of the Cree ring. That can be done with any reflector to get a smooth beam, but a lot of output is lost. I put an McR17 into my LF3XT and gained 30lm according to my lightbox.

Another example are the 4 die emitters that give a donut hole, the same can be done with those reflectors, but a lot of output is lost. This is based on my experimenting.

A ha! Well.. I really like the resulting beam they got and don't mind giving up some output to achieve it. Perhaps with their upcoming lights they can use the XP-E to get a clean beam without needing so much stippling to get there!
 
What LiteFlux did with the LF3XT is stipple the hell out of the reflector to get rid of the Cree ring. That can be done with any reflector to get a smooth beam, but a lot of output is lost. I put an McR17 into my LF3XT and gained 30lm according to my lightbox.

Another example are the 4 die emitters that give a donut hole, the same can be done with those reflectors, but a lot of output is lost. This is based on my experimenting.

Although the picture doesn't show it, the stippling on the reflector of the XT is finer, yet the beam is so much cleaner than the X. The reflector on the LF2 Seoul is so much shallower than the later iterations it probably doesn't need as much stippling, as it just doesn't attempt to focus as much.

Have I mentioned how much I like the beam of the original LF2 w/Seoul?

I dropped the new R2 XT on the concrete driveway tonight, so it is properly broken-in with a bit of the natural finish gone and a small dent near the front lens. Still working perfectly, kind of glad it happened so soon, now I don't have to worry about it and can carry daily without worry.

John F
 
..all I got to say is,




This is one bad@ss little mofo!
2mhd4b8.jpg





..actually it would be a disservice to leave it at that so;



It's friggin' TINY! My ham sized fists couldn't handle anything smaller.
I "splurged" on the R2 WH from KuKu (Steve) and all I can do is 😀.
It damn near matches my D10 in output!
..and man is that tint nice. 🙂


The more dough I spend on lights, the more I realize that getting premium tints is worth every penny.
When the cooler bins are "right" they look great.
I guess what makes the difference is cherry picking them. :devil:


I've only got two things I'd change to make it perfect.

1. The clip is too flimsy!

I believe a simple fix would be to make it out of thicker gauge wire.
Normally this is a big deal for me on a larger light, but because this light is so small, I don't think I'll be using the clip. 😱
I'm tempted to key chain carry it but I'm not sure at the moment.
The number of lights I'm carrying is getting ridiculous, but I'll figure out something! lol

2. The On/Off switch spring is too soft. Too easy to press.


That's a pretty short list! ..and borderline nitpicking. 😛

The build quality is superb.
Fit/finish is extremely high with tight tolerances.
LED perfectly centered.
You would be hard pressed to build a light any better.


The user interface is as simple or as complicated as you want it.
The good thing it is very intuitive in CUI, but that FUI is something else!
I flow chart indeed! That's just crazy, but I can see how the gadget obsessed youngsters will absolutely love it.
Right now I'm content with the CUI.


As a bonus, I've got a cool little battery charger project I'm going to build thanks to the DIY USB charger kit.
Very nice of KuKu/LightFlux to add this.
It's gonna be sleek and tiny to match the light! 🙂

Later peeps...
 
As a bonus, I've got a cool little battery charger project I'm going to build thanks to the DIY USB charger kit.
Very nice of KuKu/LightFlux to add this.
It's gonna be sleek and tiny to match the light! 🙂

:twothumbs I'd love to see some pix when you're finished with it!
 
One minute, you said after u took out the batts it was at 0.6V.
Then the next morning it went back up to 3.14v? Did u recharge it?

If not, how can it be?

No, the battery wasn't recharged. I've done the test with 2 other Ultrafire unprotected rechargeable 600mAh 10440 batteries and the same thing happens. After a few minutes the light dims and then becomes stuck in a sort of moon mode and can't be switched off without loosening the head.

The cells are hot and measure around 1v, then climb back to around 3v. I didn't have the manual with me to check if ODP was on, but if it wasn't then auto shutdown should have kicked in, and if it was on, the torch should have shut down anyway.
 
The cells are hot and measure around 1v, then climb back to around 3v. I didn't have the manual with me to check if ODP was on, but if it wasn't then auto shutdown should have kicked in, and if it was on, the torch should have shut down anyway.

What auto shutdown are you referring to, other then ODP?
 
KuKu, (or anybody)

Please link or post the pics/directions/schematic for the DIY battery charger.
It seems you've taken them down from your site?


I also can't find any discussion of this charger kit here or on the .net.

Has nobody built one yet???
 
Ah here lays the problem,I recall from the Doc in a earlier post :


[qoute]from BabyDoc the ODP with the LF2XT does not work if you have the auto/off feature enabled.

Agreed, it's on the flowchart that auto/off takes precedence over ODP, but neither work if they're both enabled. The torch just runs a fully charged cell to less than 1V in about 5 minutes. The cell recovers to an extent after being left for a while. With AAA there is no problem.

I have 2 LF2XTs. This occurs only with the black one. The two are actually completely different in beam characteristics. The black one has an almost yellow tint to the beam and no discernable hotspot, the natural one has a much brighter, whiter beam with a definite hotspot. I didn't realise there was so much variation. In fact I'm wondering if the black one may have a problem.
 
Creecher all I can say it doesn't seem right selfbuilt has three and all were over 25mins on max before the ODP flashes 😉

A little more research and double checking to be done I think, just to make sure. I've tried 'stretching' the cells by using and charging to see if they arrived only partially charged. I'll see if that makes a difference.

Anyone else noticed a big variation in beam from one LF3 to the next? They're both nice beams but so different as to be another make of torch.
 
....Agreed, it's on the flowchart that auto/off takes precedence over ODP, but neither work if they're both enabled. ...

Actually, the auto/off WILL work if both Auto/off and ODP are enabled. The trouble is the ODP won't work. Even after disabling the auto/off, you have to disable and re-enable the ODP to make it work again.
 
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