Liteflux LF3XT info, questions and programming

hogger1:

You are correct about one way knurling. I guess machining difference between grooves. I'm glad someone else brought up the toy function as I was kinda embarrased to admit doing the same thing.

Having more fun taking the light apart and changing things. Currently polishing the reflector to see if I can get a brighter spill.

Walter
 
I just got mine today and I'm very happy with my new light. If anyone is considering a pouch/case/holster, I can highly recommend the AW Nylon Holster for NovaTac EDC Flashlights over at Lighthound. I had one from when I had my 120P, and it fits like it was made just for the LF3XT.

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bondr006:

Glad you like your light and have the programming "whooped" with bud's flow chart and flying turtles help.

ENJOY

Walter
 
Any help I was able to give Rob yesterday was quite meager compared to what he did himself with assistance from Bud's chart. I pretty much just listened as he discovered the secrets on his own. For any new or potential buyers, don't be put off by all this talk or your initial view of the flow chart. Programming is really quite simple after just a little playing. You won't regret this purchase.

Geoff
 
hogger1 said:
just a couple off topic thoughts or observations about the surface finish on this light. I prefer not to call it knurling but shark skin insted. It has a very distinct one way grip, and if you set it on end it will rotate when you move your fingers downward toward the table. I have some spare time @ work and this is my favorite fidget toy.
Click to expand...
Is this true for whole LF3XT series of lights or just a few? Mine has the same problem. I`ve mentioned this to Khoo, but have not received any answer as yet. I much prefer the even knurling as on my NiteCore EX10 and D10: much better tactile feel. My LF5XT and LF2X have even knurling but too shallow IMO. I`d like to hear from others as to what they think and feel about this.
 
Flying Turtle said:
I noticed the knurling difference straight away, but never once considered it to be a problem. Kind of like it, actually. It's just not the norm. Still seems grippy enough for me anyway.

Geoff
Click to expand...

Ditto....At least it's not the useless, smooth, grip less knurling most companies use. This actually feels secure in my hand.
 
bondr006 said:
Ditto....At least it's not the useless, smooth, grip less knurling most companies use. This actually feels secure in my hand.
Click to expand...
I`ll agree with you there (see my earlier post), but is this "knurling" anomaly by design or a manufacturing glitch, and if the latter, how can the problem (for those that want it to) be resolved?
 
IMO, the knurling on the LF3XT is perfect for what you need to do with this light. You really shouldn't compare the knurling on it to what is needed on the EX10/D10. The EX10 requires twisting the head in order to switch in and out of momentary mode. Furthermore, the pressure required on the PD switch is signficantly more than that required on the LF3XT's electronic switch. Both differences with the EX10 make more aggressive knurling helpfulf; otherwise the light might slip in your hand as you do these operations. The LF3XT is easier to operate and never going to feel slippery or insecure in your hand for what you need to do with it. Less aggressive knurling has the advantage when attaching a clip, as some people have figured out to do. There are no flat areas on the body of the light for the clip to ride. Therefore, agressive knurling could snag clothing pinched between the body of the light and the clip.
 
i think the knurling is perfect for this type light , not too rough ,, which is the way i like it , lol in my younger years i may have said opposite, lol:laughing:

madi05
 
it should be tuesday or wed. it is finished being coated but being monday is a holiday i am guessing on tuesday ,,i was told it should ship on friday ,, i cant wait to see it , lol i put a trit in the tail cap but the aluminum is not quite thick enough to make it completely flush so i may remove it and just fill the cut out with superluminova instead ,, if it will still tailstand like it is i may leave it however , lol really depends on that ,, i made the switch plate a bit thinner where it tailstands so it may not tailstand with the trit poking out a bit, lol

madi05
 
madi05 -- glad you mentioned the thickness of the top of the Alum. cap. I was going to use my needle files to cut a groove across the top for a trit vial. On to plan "B"

On another subject , don't mess with your little spring. the answer is a smaller O-ring and good lubing.I am running mine without the spring. Trapped air pressure gives me a nice soft stroke untill contact with the micro switch. BTW this freestroke is .040 thou. Down side to this is when cold, cap just sits on micro switch - might turn itself on if I left in the car overnight at freezing temp. I find that without spring I can feel the crispness of the micro switch much better.

BTW , this trapped air pressure is the same thing that RA Clicky users have noticed with bulging rubber tailcap switch cover. At least we know the light has good water resistance.

Walter
 
h2oflyer said:
madi05 -- glad you mentioned the thickness of the top of the Alum. cap. I was going to use my needle files to cut a groove across the top for a trit vial. On to plan "B"

On another subject , don't mess with your little spring. the answer is a smaller O-ring and good lubing.I am running mine without the spring. Trapped air pressure gives me a nice soft stroke untill contact with the micro switch. BTW this freestroke is .040 thou. Down side to this is when cold, cap just sits on micro switch - might turn itself on if I left in the car overnight at freezing temp. I find that without spring I can feel the crispness of the micro switch much better.

BTW , this trapped air pressure is the same thing that RA Clicky users have noticed with bulging rubber tailcap switch cover. At least we know the light has good water resistance.

Walter
Click to expand...

Walter, without a spring, is there less return of the switch by the entrapped air alone doing the job of the spring? (I am trying to imagine all of this since I can't get my switch apart). In other words, do you think it is the shorter travel of the button before the switch is actuated and the shorter button return that makes the switch feel more resposive? Or do you think just as much improvement comes from using a smaller o-ring so that there is less of a delay on the return of the button between presses and less resistance when you do press? I am bit concerned about removing the spring entirely for the reasons you have already stated and wonder how much of an improvement there was with the o-ring change alone.
 
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Just a quick comment on tint. Got to see Rob's (bondr006) new light today and his is noticeably warmer than mine (at least side by side on a white wall). I'd gotten the impression there was little variation. If this concerns you it might be worth the wait and buy from Khoo, who supposedly will try to pick out what you want.

Geoff
 
BabyDoc:

I can only get a short "travel" when light has cooled off. I like it this way .Unfortunately , as soon as light warms up "piston like" cap rises up about .040 thou.

I believe the smaller O-ring and carefull lubing is what has eliminated most of the drag. IMO the purpose of small spring is to keep the cap away from the micro switch and to keep it from fluctuating with temp. changes.

My next experiment is to shorten the spring to about .050/.060 thou and see what happens to "feel".

Yes , eliminating the free travel ALONG with no spring resistance allows you to feel the crisp clicky switch.

Walter
 
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Found a use for an old Proton pouch that had been gathering dust. Fits like a glove. Still waiting for that clip, though.

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Geoff
 
Another thread tonight got me wondering about the LF3XT. Is it drawing some power when switched off? I can't recall this being mentioned before. If so, would it eventually do a self-reset after some time with no battery?

Geoff
 
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