Liteflux LF3XT info, questions and programming

Completed my experiment of frosting the top half or acrylic LED dome to try and diminish spot. Didn't notice any difference in beam. Oh well, can only learn by trying.

Grandson has appropriated my LF3XT as he thinks the programming and blinking and strobing is COOL.Got to hope he doesn't lose it.

Walter
 
I;ve done lots of searching & reading and so far the best clip option seems to be the gerber infinity clip which I don't think will stand up to daily pocket clipping. Has anyone figured out a custom clip or a way to attach a stock clip to this light? Seems like an endcap could be cnc'd to fit with the X tailcap and secured through the lanyard hold...are we ready to commision this design yet?
 
I'm still hoping one of the boffins here or at LiteFlux will come up with a nice robust clip. I've pretty much decided not to risk shaving off some anodizing just to try either the Gerber clip or a River Rock/Energizer clip made for AA lights. Like you said, Bugsy, I don't think they'd stand up for long. Actually I'm getting used to using the lanyard to hang it from belt or belt loop. And, I recently added to the lanyard a small NiteIze S-Biner, which works pretty well as a hanging pocket clip.

Geoff
 
I'm still hoping one of the boffins here or at LiteFlux will come up with a nice robust clip. I've pretty much decided not to risk shaving off some anodizing just to try either the Gerber clip or a River Rock/Energizer clip made for AA lights. Like you said, Bugsy, I don't think they'd stand up for long. Actually I'm getting used to using the lanyard to hang it from belt or belt loop. And, I recently added to the lanyard a small NiteIze S-Biner, which works pretty well as a hanging pocket clip.

Geoff

I'm the same way, the thought of scuffing up my favorite light with a cheapo clip is too much of a risk.

I don't like having to fish around in my pocket for the light and I usually use a mini carbiner to attach the lanyard to a belt loop olde skool pocket watch style for easy access. I just don't like my lights jingling around in my pockets with keys, change etc. and I would never edc a knife without a good pocket clip (I love emerson & benchmade clips).

In a world where every light has a creulated bezel why is it that a tactical clip is an afterthought? I've read the other threads and agree that extra costs are involved but is it really too much to ask of the manufacturers to get this lil piece of steel (or tapped holes to mount it aftermarket as an added accessory)

A flashlight without a clip is like a pretty girl with bad teeth! Such a bummer
 
Well guys ^^, as I have said before, I highly recommend the AW Nylon Holster. I hang it on my right front belt loop with a carabiner. It is one of the best holsters I have ever had, and it seems like it was made just for the LF3XT. It does a great job at protecting the light, and gives you a few options on how to attach it to the belt or belt loop. It also gives easy access to the light while at the same time keeping it safely and securely in the holster. I have been to Flying Turtles house and he has seen the holster, so he can vouch for its quality.

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Well guys ^^, as I have said before, I highly recommend the AW Nylon Holster. I hang it on my right front belt loop with a carabiner.
Why don't you wear it on your belt? it works well that way, I still have one that was originally bought for my HDS B42XRGT looks as good as new.
A very handy and adaptable little holster. 😛
Norm
 
Well guys ^^, as I have said before, I highly recommend the AW Nylon Holster. I hang it on my right front belt loop with a carabiner.

Why don't you wear it on your belt? it works well that way, I still have one that was originally bought for my HDS B42XRGT looks as good as new.
A very handy and adaptable little holster. 😛
Norm


I guess it's just a personal preference. I like it hanging instead of firmly attached to the belt. It is more comfortable and accessible to me....:thumbsup:
 
Hey guys ... I've just updated my LF3XT review with the results of the 2 replacement samples Khoo sent me.

Basically, there is remarkably little difference in Max/Min output or runtime between the three samples. Honestly, I've seen more variability when re-running the same light repeatedly in my lightbox!

One area where the 3 lights differ is in how well focussed the reflector is. The replacement samples have ~10% and ~20% more throw, respectively, than the original LF3XT (as meaured by the squareroot of lux @1m).

Please see posts #1 and #2 of my review thread for updated info, or my most recent post in that thread which also summarizes my revised findings.

:wave:
 
h2oflyer, you mentioned a smaller o-ring and different lube for your button improvements.

CAn you mention what size o-ring and where did you get it? How about your lube choice? I've tried a few and now am using the stock silocon grease that came with the light. WHat works best for you?
 
gunga

Spare o-ring was slightly smaller than one in light - I guess big + or - tolerance. Liteflux lube worked fine. Check out my various posts on this thread re switch mods. I ended up removing the small switch spring.Works great without battery, but when you install battery, trapped air pushes alum switch cap up just as if small spring was still there. No real gain.

Walter
 
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:party:... gunga and h2oflyer .... try this ... it worked for ME.

I just got my LF3 today...and already new & improved it.

I did not like the mushy/floating button so I did this................

Leave your button o-ring as is..........
But remove the button spring permanently ....
Find an old/expired credit card ...(thin).........
Use a notebook paper ...hole puncher ..........
Punch a circle plug out of the credit card .....
Put that plug between the button and the switch.....
(That fill's up the mushy space between em)...
Re-assemble the tailcap assembly and install ..
This made mine very crisp with no floating area in the button.

If the button is not working - the plastic plug is too thick - experiment with thinner plastic for the plug.

I hope this works as well for you as it did for me.

My button no longer has a gap and does not feel like it has trapped air inside .... pushing the plunger out.

I'm very happy with the results on mine.

Hope this helps ya ................ TooManyGizmos :grin2:.

.
 
Hey TMG, that's a very clever an innovative idea.

I'm trying it out right now, and it is very nice. I'm also using the spare (slightly smaller) o-ring.

Switch feel is quite nice. Feels like a fine electronic instrument (which it is!). I wonder if the spring and the plug together would work well?

In any case, thanks for the great suggestion!
 
Re: LF3XT Programming Flowchart - V2.1 !!

I just tried this as well. It now feels great! But what I used was a VERY thin piece of plastic. Much much thinner than a credit card. The plastic measures 0.3mm in thickness. About the thickness of a thick piece of paper. My concern was that the switch could be accidentally activated if placed in a pocket if the throw was too short. This seems perfect!

I cut a circular piece of the plastic to just fit inside the recess and sit on top of the nub that's on the underside of the switch button. There is now a minuscule amount of play before the button hits the micro switch and retains the max amount of travel. The feel seems perfect.

One of my original concerns with the light was the feel of the switch. What I originally did was clean and re-lube the button o-ring with Nyogel 760g and stretched the switch button spring a bit. This improved the feel a little but I was still getting miss-clicks on occasion. I use my thumb to switch the light and it just seemed like the button was too small and needed a bit too much travel for comfort.

After removing the spring, and adding the THIN piece of plastic, it now feels perfect. Just what I was looking for.

If this light came with the switch like this, you'd hear people praising the way it works.

Thanks for the tip TMG! :thumbsup:
 
Another good plastic source to use which may be just the right thickness ...... would be the thick clear clam-shell packages we can't get into without a trip to the hospital for cuts and gouges.

Everyone needs to experiment with the thickness of the plastic plug to acquire just the right feel that suits you.

Just be carefull the plug is not too thick or the micro switch can't cycle and will just stay constantly pressed.

Glad you guys liked my mini-mod.


TMG :thumbsup:
 
Another good plastic source to use which may be just the right thickness ...... would be the thick clear clam-shell packages we can't get into without a trip to the hospital for cuts and gouges.
That is what I used. It isn't the actual packaging, but is some sort of clear liner/separator or something that came in one. I don't remember from what. I was using it to mix epoxy and thermal glue on.

I can't stop clicking the switch now! :crazy:
 
Been there - done that - small epoxy dot on red switch button sanded to correct thickness does same thing - break it off if not wanted.

Poor LF3XT switch design has two major faults. Mushy tactile feeling has caused misfires and accidental switch activation. Read all the reviews.

Removing switch spring and lubing o-ring improves crisp tactile feeling, but light is a little more prone to accidental activation.

Eliminating free play with spacer (plastic shim/glue dot/whatever) gives you direct access to crisp micro switch, but increases accidental activation when pocket carried. Great table light. Do you really want your LF3XT set on high with a rechargable going off in your pocket ?

Safest way is NOT to use a spacer. Use it stock or remove the spring as long as you are aware of easier moving switch.

Poor switch along with sharp tail corners makes this light a lousy pocket carry, which is why I gave mine to my grandson as a programmable toy(he thinks he can find a backdoor to a demo mode)

Walter
 
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