LiteFlux LF3XT Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, and more!

kaichu dento said:
Doc (otherwise know as Mr. LF3XT😀) do you think there's any chance they'll offer a 5A or other warmer tint at that time?
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My understanding is that they still have a lot of the LF5XT's to sell. According to Khoo in the MarketPlace, the new Q5 version of the LF5XT's are relatively warm. There was a question once about whether the LF3XT interface might be incorporated into the LF5XT and the answer was there isn't room for it. Why, I don't know. (BTW, in case you didn't know, I am also a fan of the McGizmo SunDrop. If you like a warm light with really accurate color rendition, it is really great. It can't compare to any other light I own, even the LiteFluxes. It is the only light with color rendition good enough to use in my pediatric practice.)
 
h2oflyer said:
Great idea Lite_me

I don't want to lose the ano. on the knurling so i"m going to remove the sharp edges and sand off the ano. from the top of the cross and the four outside edges and leave the ano. on the semi circles.

Walter
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Walter, I really like that idea!:twothumbs When you get it done, show us how it looks.
 
BabyDoc said:
My understanding is that they still have a lot of the LF5XT's to sell. According to Khoo in the MarketPlace, the new Q5 version of the LF5XT's are relatively warm. There was a question once about whether the LF3XT interface might be incorporated into the LF5XT and the answer was there isn't room for it. Why, I don't know. (BTW, in case you didn't know, I am also a fan of the McGizmo SunDrop. If you like a warm light with really accurate color rendition, it is really great. It can't compare to any other light I own, even the LiteFluxes. It is the only light with color rendition good enough to use in my pediatric practice.)
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Yeah, I knew you were a huge Sundrop fan, but lately it seems that you've really taken to your new mistress, the LF3XT. My main hesitation on any McGizmo's I've seen is that I just don't like lights that step outside the straight barrel shape. If he would make a Lunasol 20/3s with a straight barrel shape I'd probably already have one, if it had the warmth of the SunDrop especially, but pretty much impossible (I think) to do.

Back to the original subject, with warmer tints available I'm probably going to get one of these soon. Then I'll have more questions for you! :nana:
 
h2oflyer said:
Great idea Lite_me

I don't want to lose the ano. on the knurling
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That's why I suggested removing the cross/switch holder first. It unscrews. And what I also had in mind was using some type of remover like Easy-Off oven cleaner to remove the anodizing. Your way may work and look just fine tho. Maybe even better.
I wanna see. 🙂
 
Lite_me

I know the tail cross comes off. I have removed it many times for various switch mods (see diff. LF3XT threads).

After I dremel off the sharp edges; to protect the threads on tail cross I am going to wrap the knurling in tape and reinstall the tail cap in battery tube.

You can now use emery cloth (220 grit) on a small flat stick and rotate tail cap to get nice uniform flat finish on cross ends. If you try this method freehand you will probably end up with rounded cross ends.

Just be sure tape is secure. I didn't want to remove ano. from hole as a I didn't want o-ring to be too lose.

Walter
 
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DO NOT use vice grips or vice to hold body as you will scratch or squash body.

Use something grippy to hold body(I use kitchen type rubber strap wrench) to hold body and insert hardened rod (small srewdriver) in hole in cross and try to break it free with a jerk. I don't recall any thread locker in mine - it was just really tight.

Walter
 
DHart said:
The cross tail piece on mine is on so tight that I didn't think it was removeable... any suggestions on loosening it?
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My 2 cents: I use grip tape on the body, and a small L-shape allen key on the tail cap (instead of a small screw driver or something). First wrap the body with grip tape, you can get them from automotive stores or just use the same tape that you re-wrap tennis racket handles with. I usually save the left-over tennis racket tapes for these occasions, and they do give you more grip compare to bare hand. Then, insert the short end of the allen key in the lanyard hole, and grip the long end to turn it. An allen key that is just the right size (aka barely fits into the lanyard hole) works best. I found the right-angle from the allen key make it a little easier and more natural to unscrew the tail cap, as compare to a small screw driver. But that's just personal preference.

Hope that helps!
 
Hey... thanks Wallace & Lite Me.... I was able to use an Allen key in the hole and just gripped the body tightly with my hand and got the end cap off! The rear cap threads were a little rough & gritty, so I cleaned 'em up, Nyogel'd the o-ring and the threads and put it all back together again nice and smooth. Popped in a fresh 'n' hot 4.2v AW protected RCR123 and my LT3XT is sweeter than it's ever been before! Thank you! 😉
 
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Thanks for another great review selfbuilt, and user feedback from everyone else.
I just placed an order :thumbsup:.

This light will have stiff competition for pocket time, up against a RA Twisty and 120P.
 
Has anyone figured out how long the LF3XT will run on min low on AW R123? 🙂 Or estimated run time?
 
I don't think anyone has wanted to stop using their light for the time it will take to do this test. I'm thinking it would last at least a week.

Geoff
 
Thx selfbuilt for your great review.
My LF3XT arrived yesterday.
However, I've got a question for the other proud owners of this wonderful little light:
Has anyone else discovered that the body gets quite warm (I guess around 45°C) after a few minutes (like 4-5 min.) on high? I turned it off to let it cool down again, so I don't know if the temperatur gets any higher than that...🤢
Perhaps I got a faulty unit?😱oo:
 
I can't say I've noticed it but I've programmed my high to about 70% (I'd have to check to make sure and it's in the car). I'm only ever on 100% for brief periods using momentary max.

It is a small body and on 100% it should warm up. The body warming up that quickly is a good sign for the thermal path (it's carrying the heat from the LED to the body.) Warmth in your hand means it's carrying the heat to your liquid cooling system (your blood). Unless it starts to get uncomfortable in your hand or the LED start to turn an angry blue it's probably behaving normally. Backing off your high to 85-90% should be just barely perceptible in output and will produce less heat and give longer runtimes too.
 
I've not tested mine on high for more than a few seconds, I'm sorry to say. Bad form for a flashaholic I suppose. No reviews have mentioned it getting too hot. I hope someone who has used theirs extensively on high will comment to set your mind at ease.

Geoff
 
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