Longest lasting (backpack) low lumen light?

[Marduke]

:sigh:

I'd rather not continue an off-topic debate in this thread...Jida, my sincere apologies! ...BUT I do have an obsessive need to fight misinformation in public forums.

marduke...please look at the NUMBERS:

Sanyo 2700 - 3.088 watt hours

Eneloop 2000 - 2.320 watt hours

Those are from Silverfox's 1.0 amp test, which you just quoted.

If you want to assume that everything in the Sanyo-Twicell marketing material is accurate...🙄 😛...first look at the CPF tests you have linked, which contradict that "data" (e.g. for interal resistance). Regardless, the 2700 cells will have even more capacity at low currents...10mA, 100mA, etc.

Remember...long runtime is the topic of this thread. 🙂

The other tests posted on CPF have found that:

1. after 90 days, a sanyo 2700 cell has 20% more power than an eneloop (2324mwH vs 1920mwH)
2. after 100 charges, a sanyo 2700 cell has 20% more power than than an eneloop (2179mwH vs 1788mwH)

'nuf said. Let's do the math. 90 days between charges, 100 charges, that is 25 years of battery use, and the 2700 is still 20% better. 😛

Maybe the "eneloop" brand will catch up to the high-cap cells in 100 years. But I expect to be using a different battery technology in just 10 years. These nimh cells will be trash, just a historical footnote. 🙂

That is ALL I will say on this thread. Please do your homework. If you want more info, PM me. If not...take comfort in your eneloop religion. 🙄 😛

Over & out!

-Jeff

Misinformation (yours) is why I pointed out YOUR original incorrect statement. "there is no reason to choose eneloops other than low self discharge". A correct statement would be "the ONLY reason to choose high cap cells is INITIAL capacity when new. Eneloops give superior performance in EVERY other respect."

You clearly have not read or are incable of understanding any of the technical information above to realize that there are MANY aspects to a cell other than having the largest "mAh" printed on the label, such as having a higher voltage under load giving more Wh and superior overall performance.

Furthermore, you have never even used them to have firsthand experience with any of this due to your own incorrect preconceptions.

I will continue to correct any future misinformation.

 

[davidt1]

Markduke,

uplite tends to talk a lot without having actual experience.

 

[uplite]

davidt1 -- :huh2: Huh? You have no idea where I have worked, and what products I have designed. Zombie attack! 🙂

marduke -- The numbers don't lie. The 2700mAH cells very simply beat the crap out of eneloops for low-current use. If you think CPF testers like silverfox and odessit are lying to you...um...ok. 🙄 I dunno why they would lie to you, but go ahead and run your own tests, and let us know what you find. Otherwise you're just another zombie. 🙂

FWIW, I use costco-purchased eneloops in four bluetooth mice (Logitech v270) and two bluetooth keyboards (Apple, white and silver). BUT I don't use eneloops in my flashlights, because they SUCK compared to other cells. 😛

OK. Now I am really, truly, off this thread. Unsubscribed. 🙂 If you still don't understand, feel free to PM me. Or at least read these articles to understand why you think what you do:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semmelweis_reflex
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Post-purchase_rationalization
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Irrational_escalation
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anchoring
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subjective_validation
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overconfidence_effect

ttfn,
-Jeff

 

[Marduke]

It's confirmed then, you are unable to interpt the data. Silverfox's tests (and all others) are quite clear and consistant. They ALL universally show higher voltage under load, which gives you unquestionable superior performance in use.

 

[Jida]

At 36 hours the light has taken a noticeable drop in the hot spot.

The spill still is about the same.

Still brighter than the D10 in low mode but not by the larger margin it was earlier today.

Going to watch it for a bit and then check it in the morning and get the numbers on the batteries.

 

[Marduke]

NiMH cells have a very flat discharge curve, and maintain good output until they are almost dead. Since that has happened, it means they are close.

I would suggest you check the voltage before you go to bed tonight and make sure they are not getting close to 1.0v. If they are <1.2v open circuit, they are >90% depleted.

 

[Mikellen]

:sigh:

I'd rather not continue an off-topic debate in this thread...Jida, my sincere apologies! ...BUT I do have an obsessive need to fight misinformation in public forums.



-Jeff

Can this thread remain on topic for the longest lasting low lumen light?

While the discussion between LSD and regular NIMH batteries is very informative perhaps it can be continued in the proper forum.

I request this with sincere respect for all posters involved with the NIMH discussion.

If my request is not warranted or is out of line then please accept my apology.

 

[Illum]

Try the Pac-lite, made by a backpacker,its 9-volt though.

the Pak-lite original on high will last only 2 full days [~45 hours] before dimming to almost nothing. on low It might reach 3 full days but I never tried it

Doing an experiment right now.

My original Dorcy Solid State,...

reminda me of the turtlelight:twothumbs

 

[Jida]

This is almost 48 hours later,...

This is compared to the 36 hours last night,...

The Dorcy has a very slight edge on the D10 right now but it is steadily going down. When I said it dropped noticably last night I should have said that I could see that there was a drop in light output. It is dimmer today than it was yesterday evening.

Looked everywhere, can't find my meter 🙁

That damn thing was in the same electrical toolbox for years and always got put away and of course the one time it wasn't it disappears. Once I find it I can check the discharge.

 

[Sgt. LED]

reminda me of the turtlelight:twothumbs

🙁 I had 2 of those and lost them both somewhere.

Jida, where are you going to get your Infinity Ultra from?

 

[Jida]

I did a search for it on Amazon and found a couple places that carry both the black and the green one.

Ok, the light is now down to what I would call 'unuseable' levels. You can still sit in a dark room and adjust to the light if it was an emergency.

Same D10 on low. It is now blowing the light level of the Dorcy out.

Last night the Dorcy was holding its own and keeping the same light level all night. Woke up to this though and can comfortably call it.

Almost 3 days of light, most of which was liveable.

At this rate it is less than 20 hours per battery. Not a good ROI.

 

[coyote]

Mako
- AAA Based
- 13mm Diameter x 68mm Long
- Very long run times using alkalines: 20 hrs on High & 60 hrs on Low (and maybe more when used with Lithiums)
- 24,000mcd Cree 5mm LED (fairly neutral tint)
- Machined from 6AL4V Titanium, Bead Blasted
- 24K Gold Plated Contacts
- Dual Stage, Fully Regulated DC/DC Converter
- Not PWM-based so no pulsing beam
- Water Resistant
- Lughole for split ring
- Capable of tail-standing when attached to split ring
- Easy to use one-handed

 

[jw2n]

This light will not fill all of your requirements, but comes close. The longest lasting light I have will run for 42 days at it's lowest setting. It is a 10 year old Technology Associates Model 3 Marine. They have several models currently in production, but I would opt for the Elitemax. If you are not familiar with these lights, they are a real oddball but I would not part with mine, and I own lights made by most of the companies discussed on this forum.

 

[javajoe]

As noted in my other thread my garrity k009 has lasted a year and a half on it's original 3 duracell aaa's. It's rated at 220 hours runtime, and I'm sure I have far outlasted that. This has been a bullettproof first LED flashlight for me. While it's no light cannon, it has meet all of my needs.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=243468

 

[John_Galt]

Hey, I forgot all about mine! Yeah, I think mine has the original batteries😱.

Yep, they are to expire in 2008. Still pretty bright (well, not bright, but focused.). Pretty decent aluminum body. Easy to take apart, so it would probably be easy to change out the LED for a good warm 5mm Cree one.

 

[Hooked on Fenix]

I agree that the Fenix EO1 is best for AAAs. The Gerber Infinity Ultra is one of the best for AAs. Have you considered a Fenix L1T version 2.0? It's 15 lumens on low and 98 on high. Changing level is done by twisting the head so you can keep it at the setting you want and change between levels easily. Low gets 15 hours and high gets 1.5 hours. The light is white so you don't have to see in shades of blue.

 

[Juggernaut]

I haven't seen anything posted on the Photon Proton Pro. I can't think of any AA lights that can run longer then it. 250 hours on low white:thumbsup:, and a stupidly long 540 hours on red low! I truly love the red low, I wish the white went as low. It really goes right off the map, to point of basically uselessness. With fully dark adjusted eyes you can't see it's beam a foot away😀!

 

[Jida]

This one right?

http://www.photonlight.com/Proton-P...ights-Headlamps-p/prpro-aa-led-flashlight.htm

It is a very confusing set of stats on this one,.... got anything converted to lumens and hours?

I read some mixed reviews for the red LED and its placement.

If it hold true then it is by far the best light,...not 100% sure that I am seeing what it actually does.

 

[waddup]

always a good idea to take a couple spare batteries, even if your light does get great runtimes, you might leave it 'on' accidentally.:ironic:

id actually take 2 lights, same lights, if they both failed i might be able to make 1 working 1 from the parts 🙂

 

[Sgt. LED]

Be aware of it's parasitic drain.