dano
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hello, I've located a few 21700 bodies that use a P60, but from questionable sources. Are there good, high quality 21700 sized body that uses a P60 size LED drop in, taht arent from Alieexpress, etc?
TIA.
dan
TIA.
dan
Looking for a 21700 body that uses P60 size LED drop in
- Thread starter dano
- Start date
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+
hey dano, you probably know this already, but I'll link it anyway..
malkoffdevices.com
malkoffdevices.com
hey dano, you probably know this already, but I'll link it anyway..
MD21700 Body and Switch – Malkoff Devices
This the Malkoff Devices MD21700 Body and Switch. The body is constructed of 6061 T6 Aluminum and is Hard Anodized Type III HA Black. It is fully O-Ringed for weather tightness. The removable tailcap utilizes a McClicky forward clicky switch with momentary function. This body is compatible...
malkoffdevices.com
Crenelated MDX-22.3 Head Black HA III – Malkoff Devices
Type III HA Black Crenelated MDX-22.3 Head . The opening at the front of the head is 22.3mm. It comes with an aluminum lamp retaining washer, head gasket and lens. This will fit the MD2, MD3, And MD4 bodies. All M series dropins will physically fit this head. It is up to the end user to...
malkoffdevices.com
chillinn
Flashlight Enthusiast
In before fivemega comes in here and points out his 26650 C head bodies will run 21700. I found another thread that mentioned Texas Lumens had 20700 bodies, but the website is gone, and I can't find any of their P bodies anywhere. I found a review for KDLitker E6-21700 P60 host. Vinh has them in stock.
Last edited:
... I soooo wish he would Come again with anything new.
Especially a (small) 21700 body,
+ some of his typical variants of such.
Thanks for the kdlitker body tip
just if someone else finds this thread - in search for an 21700 host light
...
I have now gotten
1 * KDLitker host, like in chillinn`s link and
1 * Malkoff 21700 body, + suitable head + a l-m-h Malkoff insert.
...
short story: I should not - finally - have bitten the lure and got that Malkoff,
I was able not to be interested and declined the expense for years, and now am pissed that I finally felt for it,
and it was about what I feared all those years
--> anyone: get the KDLitker 21700 host
. (and the corresponding Kaidomain P60 insert)
(if someone wants to read the looong story regarding the Malkoff, please feel free to ask, I will type it then)
;-)
...
I have now gotten
1 * KDLitker host, like in chillinn`s link and
1 * Malkoff 21700 body, + suitable head + a l-m-h Malkoff insert.
...
short story: I should not - finally - have bitten the lure and got that Malkoff,
I was able not to be interested and declined the expense for years, and now am pissed that I finally felt for it,
and it was about what I feared all those years
--> anyone: get the KDLitker 21700 host
. (and the corresponding Kaidomain P60 insert)
(if someone wants to read the looong story regarding the Malkoff, please feel free to ask, I will type it then)
;-)
ok, i'll bite...
Did you really think we wouldn't want to know?
Oh, I do need to hear this......
Kestrel
Flashaholic
Came for the looong story; left disappointed. ;-)
oookay,
You asked for it ...
in the early days of white led, we had to build our own lights - because there simply was no maker to give us good lights.
(then somewhen Fenix stomped the market with their L1P / L2P, wow that was great)
in 2004 I built my 1st 6P 18650 conversion.
Back then there was no stadard, like today, with bored out hosts and P60 inserts.
that is when I got my liking for that size and especially for the converted 6 P.
so I for sure have a bias towards that host and anyting will be compared to that!
Unfortunately the Malkoff body happend to fall for that also.
actually I am deciding to stay at 18650, or to switch to 21700.
the both hosts in question on the right:
KDLITKER:
+ VERY CHEAP,
+ still impressingly nice machining, finish good,
+ watertight (when testing batteries, I put the light(s) into a bowl of water for cooling)
+ a tad shorter than the Malkoff,
+ good grippy knurling,
+ the Kdlitker 3-level insert kicks azz,
- adding the forward klicky was a PITA, i killed 1 of the 2-pack. But the 2nd works fine now
+ did I type cheap?
Malkoff:
* extremely expensive (which I knew before).
* only shipping method offered - here to Europe - adds another 50,-- to the total
* customs add another 80,-- €
* EXTREMELY Expensive
* machining is very good, finish is really nice,
* very slippery body (I learned that in the threads, but after ordering unfortunately)
* the superfine threading at the back cap - 9 full turns - drives me crazy. Why is that not the same as the threads inside the head for that insert fixing "screw"?
* at that back end not watertight (for the cooling water bowl).
I am disassembling/wiping/reassembling the whole light the last days, whenever another layer of fog builds up at the front glass,
* the recessed pushbutton is tooooo recessed, at least for me. (and I dont think I can adapt to how it is situated with more use. I simply have to open my hand to get the thumb deep enough into the recession. And I dont want to open my hand when holding a light)
* there could have been a few flat areas added at the end of the body as anti-roll "device". The end cap has them, but the body is wider at the end.
That for example were a nice hidden feature, I would appreciate from a high end product.
* that special insert + head... i again thought that does a special purpose. But inside the head is just a flat tube, and so head and insert are not pressed together, to improve thermal path (like the heads where the insert is loaded from the Front).
I added good 5 mm of aluminium tape around the insert, which is a PITA (again), to help getting the heat away. And know it does not work good, when sooo much space has to be covered.
To be totally clear: That "mounting" is something i accept from cheapo chinese but not from such highly recommended custom maker. That should have been mentionned from the fanboys, like the slippery knurling.
* the l-m-h, high CRI insert makes a fine high cri, but is way too dim. Even the non high cri version were to dim. No match for the really bright Kdlitker.
that is imho the 1st argument for the 21700: more power!
So higher power insert "needed"
Yes, correct, the "dim" brightness, that was clear from bedinning, I know.
That was why I never opted for a Malkoff till now.
Makes it even worse for me, that I finally did it - it was simply MY wrong decision.
the rest - watertightness, slippery body, bad thermal mounting/aluminium tape, maybe also the (for me) "wrong" threading of the end cap ...
... were OK with a cheapo light/body, but not in the price region that custom part is situated in.
Here I expected far more - my bad
Did I type you all spend too much time at the Computer, when only coming for the looong story?
You asked for it ...
in the early days of white led, we had to build our own lights - because there simply was no maker to give us good lights.
(then somewhen Fenix stomped the market with their L1P / L2P, wow that was great)
in 2004 I built my 1st 6P 18650 conversion.
Back then there was no stadard, like today, with bored out hosts and P60 inserts.
that is when I got my liking for that size and especially for the converted 6 P.
so I for sure have a bias towards that host and anyting will be compared to that!
Unfortunately the Malkoff body happend to fall for that also.
actually I am deciding to stay at 18650, or to switch to 21700.
the both hosts in question on the right:
KDLITKER:
+ VERY CHEAP,
+ still impressingly nice machining, finish good,
+ watertight (when testing batteries, I put the light(s) into a bowl of water for cooling)
+ a tad shorter than the Malkoff,
+ good grippy knurling,
+ the Kdlitker 3-level insert kicks azz,
- adding the forward klicky was a PITA, i killed 1 of the 2-pack. But the 2nd works fine now
+ did I type cheap?
Malkoff:
* extremely expensive (which I knew before).
* only shipping method offered - here to Europe - adds another 50,-- to the total
* customs add another 80,-- €
* EXTREMELY Expensive
* machining is very good, finish is really nice,
* very slippery body (I learned that in the threads, but after ordering unfortunately)
* the superfine threading at the back cap - 9 full turns - drives me crazy. Why is that not the same as the threads inside the head for that insert fixing "screw"?
* at that back end not watertight (for the cooling water bowl).
I am disassembling/wiping/reassembling the whole light the last days, whenever another layer of fog builds up at the front glass,
* the recessed pushbutton is tooooo recessed, at least for me. (and I dont think I can adapt to how it is situated with more use. I simply have to open my hand to get the thumb deep enough into the recession. And I dont want to open my hand when holding a light)
* there could have been a few flat areas added at the end of the body as anti-roll "device". The end cap has them, but the body is wider at the end.
That for example were a nice hidden feature, I would appreciate from a high end product.
* that special insert + head... i again thought that does a special purpose. But inside the head is just a flat tube, and so head and insert are not pressed together, to improve thermal path (like the heads where the insert is loaded from the Front).
I added good 5 mm of aluminium tape around the insert, which is a PITA (again), to help getting the heat away. And know it does not work good, when sooo much space has to be covered.
To be totally clear: That "mounting" is something i accept from cheapo chinese but not from such highly recommended custom maker. That should have been mentionned from the fanboys, like the slippery knurling.
* the l-m-h, high CRI insert makes a fine high cri, but is way too dim. Even the non high cri version were to dim. No match for the really bright Kdlitker.
that is imho the 1st argument for the 21700: more power!
So higher power insert "needed"
Yes, correct, the "dim" brightness, that was clear from bedinning, I know.
That was why I never opted for a Malkoff till now.
Makes it even worse for me, that I finally did it - it was simply MY wrong decision.
the rest - watertightness, slippery body, bad thermal mounting/aluminium tape, maybe also the (for me) "wrong" threading of the end cap ...
... were OK with a cheapo light/body, but not in the price region that custom part is situated in.
Here I expected far more - my bad
Did I type you all spend too much time at the Computer, when only coming for the looong story?
Last edited:
doh,
the more I think about it, the more I get unhappy.
And do not forget:
that is not the cheapo chinese "clone" of anything, as the fanboys like to state all the time,
that is a highly regarded (and well expensive) custom label product.
that head is even worse as my initial thoughts,
because of the front glass that is isolating the insert at the front (from the thermal path to the head).
and then the narrow retaining ring at the back.
the insert is simply cooking itself and can not get the heat away good.
An "easy" fix might "just" be a thicker (?) retaining ring that encases more of the insert
a solution far from perfect, but at least useful
(and not adding much more labor or cost)
.. tell me when I am unfair here ...
the more I think about it, the more I get unhappy.
And do not forget:
that is not the cheapo chinese "clone" of anything, as the fanboys like to state all the time,
that is a highly regarded (and well expensive) custom label product.
that head is even worse as my initial thoughts,
because of the front glass that is isolating the insert at the front (from the thermal path to the head).
and then the narrow retaining ring at the back.
the insert is simply cooking itself and can not get the heat away good.
An "easy" fix might "just" be a thicker (?) retaining ring that encases more of the insert
a solution far from perfect, but at least useful
(and not adding much more labor or cost)
.. tell me when I am unfair here ...
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2017
- Messages
- 106
Great write-up, thank you.oookay,
You asked for it ...
in the early days of white led, we had to build our own lights - because there simply was no maker to give us good lights.
(then somewhen Fenix stomped the market with their L1P / L2P, wow that was great)
in 2004 I built my 1st 6P 18650 conversion.
Back then there was no stadard, like today, with bored out hosts and P60 inserts.
that is when I got my liking for that size and especially for the converted 6 P.
so I for sure have a bias towards that host and anyting will be compared to that!
Unfortunately the Malkoff body happend to fall for that also.
actually I am deciding to stay at 18650, or to switch to 21700.
the both hosts in question on the right:
View attachment 58226
KDLITKER:
+ VERY CHEAP,
+ still impressingly nice machining, finish good,
+ watertight (when testing batteries, I put the light(s) into a bowl of water for cooling)
+ a tad shorter than the Malkoff,
+ good grippy knurling,
+ the Kdlitker 3-level insert kicks azz,
- adding the forward klicky was a PITA, i killed 1 of the 2-pack. But the 2nd works fine now
+ did I type cheap?
Malkoff:
* extremely expensive (which I knew before).
* only shipping method offered - here to Europe - adds another 50,-- to the total
* customs add another 80,-- €
* EXTREMELY Expensive
* machining is very good, finish is really nice,
* very slippery body (I learned that in the threads, but after ordering unfortunately)
* the superfine threading at the back cap - 9 full turns - drives me crazy. Why is that not the same as the threads inside the head for that insert fixing "screw"?
* at that back end not watertight (for the cooling water bowl).
I am disassembling/wiping/reassembling the whole light the last days, whenever another layer of fog builds up at the front glass,
* the recessed pushbutton is tooooo recessed, at least for me. (and I dont think I can adapt to how it is situated with more use. I simply have to open my hand to get the thumb deep enough into the recession. And I dont want to open my hand when holding a light)
* there could have been a few flat areas added at the end of the body as anti-roll "device". The end cap has them, but the body is wider at the end.
That for example were a nice hidden feature, I would appreciate from a high end product.
* that special insert + head... i again thought that does a special purpose. But inside the head is just a flat tube, and so head and insert are not pressed together, to improve thermal path (like the heads where the insert is loaded from the Front).
I added good 5 mm of aluminium tape around the insert, which is a PITA (again), to help getting the heat away. And know it does not work good, when sooo much space has to be covered.
To be totally clear: That "mounting" is something i accept from cheapo chinese but not from such highly recommended custom maker. That should have been mentionned from the fanboys, like the slippery knurling.
* the l-m-h, high CRI insert makes a fine high cri, but is way too dim. Even the non high cri version were to dim. No match for the really bright Kdlitker.
that is imho the 1st argument for the 21700: more power!
So higher power insert "needed"
Yes, correct, the "dim" brightness, that was clear from bedinning, I know.
That was why I never opted for a Malkoff till now.
Makes it even worse for me, that I finally did it - it was simply MY wrong decision.
the rest - watertightness, slippery body, bad thermal mounting/aluminium tape, maybe also the (for me) "wrong" threading of the end cap ...
... were OK with a cheapo light/body, but not in the price region that custom part is situated in.
Here I expected far more - my bad
Did I type you all spend too much time at the Computer, when only coming for the looong story?
A question for you. Did you use flat-top cells? The feedback on AliExpress states that the protected (with type c) 21700 will not work in the KDLITKER E6-21700 P60 Flashlight Host.
.
Sollution - Martin White
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Malkoff:
* extremely expensive (which I knew before).
* only shipping method offered - here to Europe - adds another 50,-- to the total
* customs add another 80,-- €
* EXTREMELY Expensive
* machining is very good, finish is really nice,
* very slippery body (I learned that in the threads, but after ordering unfortunately)
* the superfine threading at the back cap - 9 full turns - drives me crazy. Why is that not the same as the threads inside the head for that insert fixing "screw"?
* at that back end not watertight (for the cooling water bowl).
I am disassembling/wiping/reassembling the whole light the last days, whenever another layer of fog builds up at the front glass,
* the recessed pushbutton is tooooo recessed, at least for me. (and I dont think I can adapt to how it is situated with more use. I simply have to open my hand to get the thumb deep enough into the recession. And I dont want to open my hand when holding a light)
* there could have been a few flat areas added at the end of the body as anti-roll "device". The end cap has them, but the body is wider at the end.
That for example were a nice hidden feature, I would appreciate from a high end product.
* that special insert + head... i again thought that does a special purpose. But inside the head is just a flat tube, and so head and insert are not pressed together, to improve thermal path (like the heads where the insert is loaded from the Front).
I added good 5 mm of aluminium tape around the insert, which is a PITA (again), to help getting the heat away. And know it does not work good, when sooo much space has to be covered.
To be totally clear: That "mounting" is something i accept from cheapo chinese but not from such highly recommended custom maker. That should have been mentionned from the fanboys, like the slippery knurling.
* the l-m-h, high CRI insert makes a fine high cri, but is way too dim. Even the non high cri version were to dim. No match for the really bright Kdlitker.
that is imho the 1st argument for the 21700: more power!
So higher power insert "needed"
Yes, correct, the "dim" brightness, that was clear from bedinning, I know.
That was why I never opted for a Malkoff till now.
Makes it even worse for me, that I finally did it - it was simply MY wrong decision.
the rest - watertightness, slippery body, bad thermal mounting/aluminium tape, maybe also the (for me) "wrong" threading of the end cap ...
... were OK with a cheapo light/body, but not in the price region that custom part is situated in.
Here I expected far more - my bad
Did I type you all spend too much time at the Computer, when only coming for the looong story?
doh,
the more I think about it, the more I get unhappy.
And do not forget:
that is not the cheapo chinese "clone" of anything, as the fanboys like to state all the time,
that is a highly regarded (and well expensive) custom label product.
that head is even worse as my initial thoughts,
because of the front glass that is isolating the insert at the front (from the thermal path to the head).
and then the narrow retaining ring at the back.
the insert is simply cooking itself and can not get the heat away good.
An "easy" fix might "just" be a thicker (?) retaining ring that encases more of the insert
a solution far from perfect, but at least useful
(and not adding much more labor or cost)
.. tell me when I am unfair here ...
Sollution - Martin White
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
And where, pray tell, might one find this species of aluminimum heat sink???
(Hint: It' doesn't appear on the Overready website as of 3.24.2024...)
(Hint: It' doesn't appear on the Overready website as of 3.24.2024...)
His thread and contact: He built a new shop and did his thing as a hobby so he may do more at some point...
He is CEO of https://www.ruffiansoftware.com
Services on CPF:
Sold/Expired - Modifications to convert Malkoff MD2 to "MD1"
Modifications to convert Malkoff MD2/3/4 to "MD1" and/or MD Extensions As shown here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?355520-Malkoff-quot-MD1-quot-by-MartinDWhite Send me a Malkoff body (MD2, MD3, or MD4) I will modify it to be a single cell body "MD1" and sent it back to...
www.candlepowerforums.com
Malkoff (clone) anti-roll hex head Group Buy
There was some discussion of anti-roll hex heads for Malkoffs. I have a small machine shop and I have been doing Malkoff related machine projects for many years so I made a prototype head. You can see it here -->...
www.candlepowerforums.com
(knock-off) Malkoff Anti-Roll Hex Head (MARHH)
Since it looks like Gene is not going to make an Anti-Roll head for the MD body series, I thought I would take a crack at it. It was a fun after noon project....come on a journey with me. Some 1.25 flat to flat hex stock Matches up well to the side of a MD head. Bore it out... Bore out...
www.candlepowerforums.com
