Looking for a flashlight with lowest mode

[kaichu dento]

You sure about that? At 0.1 lumen lowest, it's not even close to the 0.003 lumen of the Jetbeam RRT-0.

A low of .1 doesn't even sound low anymore, what with the .07-.08 of the Clicky being considered high these days...

 

[phonoe]

Can you tell me the lumen rating for the lowest low in the Neutron series? According to BatteryJunction's website, it says 0.1 lumen for the 2 CR123 version and 0.09 lumen for the single AA version. Both numbers are still far from 0.003 on the new Jetbeam RRT-0 infinite variable brightness. I have compared the RRT-0 to my HDS clicky at 0.07 lumen and it is much dimmer than the HDS clicky. In fact, it is so dim I would say it is almost useless unless one is using it to read a document way up close. Is the Thrunite Neutron even lower than the HDS clicky's 0.07 lumen?

You are right. Maybe I was misunderstanding (language). Thanks for the clarification.

 

[jon_slider]

The Jetbeam RRT-01, TCR-1, TCR-2, and Eye10 TiC have the lowest lows of any light I know..

this video says the low on the TCR-2 is 0.003 lumens.


I can turn my RRT-01 down so low that I cannot even see the LED is still on, until I wake up in the dark with fully sleep adapted vision.

My RRT-01 on left is not at its lowest setting.. shown here next to an HDS with a 0.07 low, on the right

and fwiw, the RRT-01 does not use PWM (HDS does use PWM, but I dont notice unless I try)

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...stems-EDC-21&p=5236123&highlight=#post5236123

I noticed some flicker on the lower levels 1-6 on my light. If someone's interested in the output behavior measured OTF, here's what it looks like. Measured levels 4 through 24. Sensor sensitivity / scope resolution not high enough for the lowest levels which also explains the low bit depth on the low levels. The snob index of 5%+ usually indicates that you can notice the flicker if you know how to search for it. 20%+ is getting to the distracting territory. The flicker on the HDS will probably never be visible in normal use.

https://imgur.com/a/vWucy5e

 

[archimedes]

Thank you for updating this useful thread.

It would be interesting to compare these to a 007 programmed to minimal output, which I have not seen done or posted.

 

[jon_slider]

It would be interesting to compare these to a 007 programmed to minimal output

I agree, PM me for my address to send a review sample.. ;-)

here is the manual
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ire-STFu-MK4-V3-1-Driver-(XP-L-Hi-XP-L-XM-L2)

It will dim all the way down to the level 1’s 2mA

fwiw, RRT-01 are available, PM me if anyone needs a link.

for comparison, here is my Thrunite Ti3, spec says the low is 0.04 lumens, as you can see, that is MUCH brighter than my three Jetbeams:

all the lights are ON, the Jetbeams are just too dim to see against the paper:

 

[archimedes]

Ha, good one

 

[AVService]

My T1A are still the lowest that I have owned or tried but that must be why they are also my most often used light.

I sold my RRT-001 mainly because of this although I did have regret about that almost right away too!

The HDS really is fairly bright compared to the Titan though I can not get you a pic right now Jon either.
I am pretty sure though that we debated this already in the past and I did send you one too?

At any rate the Manker E02 & E03 may well go down there too as they do offer a 22 step Low mode option which I am really loving since getting these.

I can't believe that I have not compared these yet myself?
I am really slipping!

 

[jon_slider]

E02:

The moonlight mode is programmable from ~0.1 lumen

 

[AVService]

No idea at all nor any concern about it.
Short of my owning a meter.
I go with what my eyes tell me not what they claim on paper.

T1A spec?

E02:

 

[jon_slider]

the spec for my Ti3 is 0.04, and on my meter I get 0.05
my HDS gave 0.07 on my meter
my Jetbeams read too low for my meter, whose minimum is 0.01

added a green filter to the Ti3, to lower the lumen level, middle light is an Olight i3s modded to 3000k 219c (spec is .5 w stock xp-g2)

 

[archimedes]

CPF member @reppans has noted that published specs are often inaccurate (even wildly so) at the low end of output.

There are numerous possible reasons for this, and many unintentional.

 

[AVService]

so youre posting to say you cant say?

I cant see through your eyes ;-)
so unless you post photos, I can only go by the values I find in reviews...
or by direct comparison to lights I own

I do own a meter, the spec for my Ti3 is 0.04, and on my meter I get 0.05
my HDS gave 0.07 on my meter
my Jetbeams read too low for my meter, whose minimum is 0.01

added a green filter to the Ti3, to lower the lumen level, middle light is an Olight i3s modded to 3000k 219c,

Yes,keep your pants on this is just [emoji363]
I will be happy to get comparo pics when I can,mkay?

 

[jon_slider]

CPF member @reppans has noted that published specs are often inaccurate (even wildly so) at the low end of output.

There are numerous possible reasons for this, and many unintentional.

I agree completely, that is why I posted the above photo with the lumen specs from my meter. The Jetbeam is Visibly MUCH lower than 0.01

 

[jon_slider]

keep your pants on

adding you to my ignore list, please do the same

 

[AVService]

Anecdotal information is just as useful to many if us Jon.
I know in the middle if the night which looks lower to my [emoji102] dont you?

Talk about disrespectful ignorance

 

[LeanBurn]

All of my Thrunite lights have a sub 1 lumen mode, it was one of the primary reasons for having them. I can only go by what the manufacturer specs them though so:

TiS - 0.04 L
Archer - 0.42 L
TH20 -0.3 L
TN4A - 0.2 L

There certainly is a time a place for sub lumen lighting and I use it all the time. I can't see where less than 0.04 L would be useful, but then I don't have a light that goes lower, so I don't know any different.

 

[AVService]

adding you to my ignore list, please do the same

Trust me you don't need to be on any list.

You became unhinged because I did not reply with my own observations to your empirical satisfaction and standards.

Not worth the effort to ignore you any more than I already do.

 

[Tixx]

Skylumen RRT-01 with XHP 50.2 goes the lowest of mine (lower than all Zebralights). Plus it gets 800 lumens on high.

 

[WalkIntoTheLight]

The lowest "real" lows I have are on my SC52 and SC52w, back when Zebralight use to make their lowest moonlight setting ridiculously low. IIRC, they list them at .01 lumens, but in reality it's 10x dimmer than that. You can only see the LED is on if the room is dim.

I have an "unofficial" (i.e., buggy) Sunwayman D40A NW that will go into an extremely low moonlight if you shut it off in the real moonlight mode. It's so dim that I can only see the LED lit if it's completely dark and my eyes are dark-adapted. Supposedly, this is a bug with many (all?) of their neutral white version of that light.

I have an armytek that also has a very low moonlight, though still brighter than the Zebralight SC52's.

 

[Data]

Thanks Jon for letting me know about this thread. Wow, from 2011.

The modern SPY lights can be programmed to whatever light output you want all the way down to it is lower than a tritium. When it is at its lowest level you cannot see it is on unless you are in a very dark room. I have 10 year old trits that are brighter than a SPY on its lowest low, see pic below.

As they come preset from me, the default low for my lights is 5 mA. But you can change that to whatever you want. You can even make up a slot with nothing but six super low levels of moonlight and flip to that when you are all snug in your sleeping bag.

The STFu MK4 in a SPY light has a 99.9 % pure DC buck output with a current sensing circuit. Of course the requirement for all LED drivers is that they be a current source. The voltage is constantly modified to be able to hit the current target as the Vf changes due to heat and age. What's difficult for a current sensing circuit is for it to be able to handle a large range of currents. In the case of my STFu MK4 it actually has two auto selecting current sensing circuits. One for the high range (3300 mA to 100 mA) and one for the low range (100 mA to 3 mA). But even the low range circuit in my driver cannot go below 1 mA with any accuracy due to an offset differential. Happily, current source drivers for LEDs are not needed for very very low output levels because there is no heating to effect the Vf of the Emitter. So when you set a very low driver output on a SPY, the algorithm ignores the current sensing circuit and just outputs a constant DC voltage. The way you program it is, it starts dimming the emitter and you just watch till it is at your desired brightness and then you stop it there.


Cheers
Dave