Looking for a single or 2x AA light

[aznsx]

The EagTac D25A2 is a lightweight option with a very nice tactical switch.

That's a rare exception to my general reference to the 'imports' usually lacking a momentary-on switch (Edit add: 'on AA lights like we're discussing) , and available with a choice of emitters to boot!

I'm not Olight's biggest fan, but in fairness, their i5T is another example of a 1xAA 'import' with 'momentary' tailswitch, and since it's a short list, you might want to consider it too. I have one of its larger brother the M1T (same only CR123A/16340) with the original H-L (tap/double-tap output sequence), and I have no specific complaints about it. There's also an i3T that completes that family, in 1xAAA.

 

[kerneldrop]

@Fargus - you'll be happy with the Convoy T3 and T4

 

[cave dave]

Thrunite Archer 2A V3 has a forward clicky (tactical) tail switch for signaling and a head mounted e-switch for mode changes. Price is very reasonable, I think they have an Single AA version but I don't have it so I'm not sure.

I have some of the other 2AA lights mentioned as well and like them alot, but they change modes every time the tail button is pushed.

 

[aznsx]

Reverse polarity takes juice from the battery.

Maybe if they aren't designed around 'classic' button-top cells like most/all my AA lights are, but I realize that's a personal 'thing'...and I'm glad because I'm old and occasionally get one backwards. Getting old does strange things man! Even if you're 'perfect' now, you won't stay that way.

 

[Charlie Hustle]

Nitecore MT2A

 

[scalpel_ninja]

Peak doesn't currently make a true tail-cap clicky that I could find on their site, so I had to exclude them.

I have a stainless El Capitan with the plunger switch and it's a solid light. I haven't tried it, but I heard the QTC can be mounted between the head and cell (instead of between the switch and battery negative), making the switch completely momentary and not pressure sensitive.

 

[kerneldrop]

Maybe if they aren't designed around 'classic' button-top cells like most/all my AA lights are, but I realize that's a personal 'thing'...and I'm glad because I'm old and occasionally get one backwards. Getting old does strange things man! Even if you're 'perfect' now, you won't stay that way.

Ha, Oh I'm getting there...I need a watch that tells me what the day and date is. The year is convenient.
I thought I fried a malkoff with putting a fresh 4.2v in a 3.0v light. It was super bright though. Still works. (a lot of those imports claiming to be both 1.5V and 3.7V actually aren't...they just let you redline that light until it fails)

In regards to reverse polarity... you either need a Schottky diode or MOSFET.
Either way requires a driver designed around reverse polarity because they require power and space.