Low tech solution: modifying flat top 18650 batteries to work in Zebralight SC600

LEDBE
MY

MY

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A number of the most anticipated high output XLM flashlights take 18650 batteries. I just got the Zebralight SC600 and none of my batteries work - the batteries were either too big or had flat tops. :scowl:

Many of these flashlights have a polarity protection feature that requires a raised button top battery. Unfortunately, many 18650 batteries fit into the battery tube but have a flat top, rendering them incompatible. I noticed on several flat top 18650s that the flat button top has a number of small slits (vents I assume?) along the slightly raised button. I inserted a small thin blade screwdriver into the slits and was able to bend the metal upwards thus raising the button top above the surrounding battery end. The metal was soft and was easy to bend. The result of this surgery was a raised button top battery. I did this surgery to all my flat tops and each now work perfectly in the SC600 - your mileage may vary depending on battery type. 🙂

Regards
 
Hey! Good thinkin' there! 🙂 Show us some pics if you can. Would love to see what the end result looks like!
 
Is there a venting system under that top? , that's why the 3 holes are there , i guess at manufacturing that the flatop is pressed down at a certain value to manually/roughly set the vent pressure .

But it your bulging these just a little bit it might not matter , just a thought.
 
HooNz said:
Is there a venting system under that top? , that's why the 3 holes are there , i guess at manufacturing that the flatop is pressed down at a certain value to manually/roughly set the vent pressure .

But it your bulging these just a little bit it might not matter , just a thought.
Click to expand...

My guess is that the actual pressure regulating thing is the plate behind the metal you can see and touch, far too fragile a thing to leave unprotected. The holes are just to release the gasses, and even if it does regulate some kind of back pressure i doubt this mod will do anything about it because you don't change the hole size. Im going to give my salvage cells a try right now, i love this idea!
 
Be careful when you insert the thin blade screwdriver that the bade does not go in too far - you don't want to puncture the cell. I did not use the blade to pry up the slot but simply lifted the blade and the metal deformed up, making the button raised enough to make contact with the circuit anode.

As was discovered, some batteries use thicker metal so more pressure may need to be applied. YMMV!

Regards.
 
RepProdigious said:
My guess is that the actual pressure regulating thing is the plate behind the metal you can see and touch, far too fragile a thing to leave unprotected. The holes are just to release the gasses, and even if it does regulate some kind of back pressure i doubt this mod will do anything about it because you don't change the hole size. Im going to give my salvage cells a try right now, i love this idea!
Click to expand...

Yep ok , i guessed it would be something like that also , even after fully dismantling a cell months ago to see what it was made of/how , i do not recall the vent system , anyway like i mentioned it was just a thought and it looks like you have it all covered , good idea!.
I use the quick solder blob technique , now i understand that getting the top to hot might change the vent characteristics more than anything else related to the actual cell , even though the metallic rod that goes down through the center of the cell from the flatop was my first concern .
Cheers...
 
Uh what? I thought the SC600 could already accept flat 18650's like AW's 2900mAH version? Selfbuilt's review says it does. Is this mod for an earlier version of the light?
 
In some respects, the use of nickel plated rare earth magnets is a good solution, in so much as they get the job done, while avoiding the need to modify the battery in any way.

Unfortunately, they can shift if the light gets a sharp knock, and could lead to the magnet bridging the positive terminal and the body of the light. Shouldn't be an issue if the inside of the light is anodised or otherwise made non-conductive, but over time, anodising can wear. Other times, the inside of the body may be bare metal anyway (Tri/quad bored Mags, Surefires bored out for 18650s, etc.) If the magnet were to shift, and make a live connection with the body tube, you would short out the battery.
 
I'm looking to use this magnet in an EagleTac TX25C2, which actually has a silicon ring around the connection point for the + side connector. The ring should brace the magnet and stop it from sliding if knocked.

Stephen Wallace said:
In some respects, the use of nickel plated rare earth magnets is a good solution, in so much as they get the job done, while avoiding the need to modify the battery in any way.

Unfortunately, they can shift if the light gets a sharp knock, and could lead to the magnet bridging the positive terminal and the body of the light. Shouldn't be an issue if the inside of the light is anodised or otherwise made non-conductive, but over time, anodising can wear. Other times, the inside of the body may be bare metal anyway (Tri/quad bored Mags, Surefires bored out for 18650s, etc.) If the magnet were to shift, and make a live connection with the body tube, you would short out the battery.
Click to expand...
 
MY said:
A number of the most anticipated high output XLM flashlights take 18650 batteries. I just got the Zebralight SC600 and none of my batteries work - the batteries were either too big or had flat tops. :scowl:

Many of these flashlights have a polarity protection feature that requires a raised button top battery. Unfortunately, many 18650 batteries fit into the battery tube but have a flat top, rendering them incompatible. I noticed on several flat top 18650s that the flat button top has a number of small slits (vents I assume?) along the slightly raised button. I inserted a small thin blade screwdriver into the slits and was able to bend the metal upwards thus raising the button top above the surrounding battery end. The metal was soft and was easy to bend. The result of this surgery was a raised button top battery. I did this surgery to all my flat tops and each now work perfectly in the SC600 - your mileage may vary depending on battery type. 🙂

Regards
Click to expand...

Great low tech idea. I just add a small magnet from kj magnetics.
 
I make my own insulated magnet spacers and front buttons, using fiber washers, rare earth magnets and super glue:

IMGP2617.jpg


IMGP2619.jpg
 
applevalleyjoe said:
Great low tech idea. I just add a small magnet from kj magnetics.
Click to expand...

I've done the same thing, and from Kj also for best prices. I picked out magnets that were essentially the same height, and diameter as a primary CR123, held them on the top of the flat + side of cell and applied crazy glue around the edges, careful not to get the glue under the magnet. They stay put.

Bill
 
just want to throw my method on modifying the unprotected 18650 cells to fit in sync

super duper easy you can do it with your finger nail..

Just peel back the wrapper and tear it (or cut it) off, just enough so that its a flat metal bottom

Method 2
A Canadian Dime is almost exactly the circumference of an 18650 battery. Battery, Dime, Battery works like a charm in most lights.
 
rich96 said:
Just peel back the wrapper and tear it (or cut it) off, just enough so that its a flat metal bottom
Click to expand...

Flat bottom, or flat top? Not sure that peeling back the wrapper is a good thing. I've had wrappers peel off over time, and I have used scotch tape to keep the bare metal of the battery covered.

Bill
 
Another method for raising the + side is to drop solder onto the surface with a big solder iron , done a few like that.
I practiced on a few dud cells first, to get the drip/flow just right, you don't want to apply excessive heat to the + terminal
 
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