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How many batteries can I use to drive a LS/O to full brightness without a DC/DC converter?
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To keep the LS is full MFG specifications of 0.35A would require three 1.5V batteries and a resistor in series to stay "legal". Without the resistor you are overdriving past the MAX specifications of 0.5A.
That said, my first mod was a three AA battery holder and no resistor and no heat sink. Wooohooo! (I only used it intermittently outside and then dismantled all three to use the LEDs in other projects).
That said, my first mod was a three AA battery holder and no resistor and no heat sink. Wooohooo! (I only used it intermittently outside and then dismantled all three to use the LEDs in other projects).
Glow Bug
Enlightened
What is your opinion to the longivity of say a 3aa Brinkman direct driving a LS that is heatsinked well?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Add NiMH batteries to this equation too. How well do three cell direct drive (no resistor) LS mods hold up?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Add NiMH batteries to this equation too. How well do three cell direct drive (no resistor) LS mods hold up?</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I have built several Brink 3AA direct-drive lights that run on NiMh's and they work great! It's almost like they're fully regulated because they run at full brightness until they're nearly dead and then "fall on their face" all at once. The only problem this creates, is it's difficult to tell when your batteries are beginning to run down, so it's good to keep a spare set handy.
What I DON'T know is whether or not is if "D" cell NiMh's will behave the same way as AA's do (relative to alkalines).
The only LS that I've had fail (so far) was one that was defective when I bought it.. It actually had a HOLE in the side of it. after a short period of time the wire going into the die began to darken from the atmosphere being able to get to it.
