LS Voltage Drop. White Luxeon

dat2zip

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 5, 2002
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Working on some DC/DC converters and need to know what voltage/current people are seeing with the White Luxeons they have.

I've got three from Peter back in Dec last year. Mine are showing 3.0-3.1 Volts at a current of .35A.

I'm curious to see if anyone has any that are 3.5-3.6 near the top end of the specifications.
 
Hi, dat2zip...
With the three luxeons I have, I've seen 2.95V, 3.2V, and 3.2V...

ZLT+ runtime test to be done tonight!
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Any Luxeon information would be helpful. What type it is and what voltage drop you measured at what current?

Thanks,

The reason I'm asking is the MAX1675 switching boost regulator IC has a peak charging current of 0.5A. This limits the Maximum output current which is dependant on output voltage. So, at 2.7V the IC could deliver more current than at 3.5 Volts.

I was hoping to find a good distribution around 3.2 Volts or less. My calculations show I can drive up to 350mA up to 3.1 or so. Going above that would reduce drive current to less than .35A.
 
The 2.95V luxeon I mention would be a good candidate for this...running it at 3.1V, 350ma...it would be bright!
The other luxeons I tested at 3.2-3.3V were at around 350ma also, I believe. My dvm is kind of screwy, so I need to double check.

Did you get my email?
 
O, I just figured out who you are.
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I forgot you told me your user name was this. Yes, I got your email.

Bad news. I broke the MAX1675 in making a mod and now I think I smoked the MAX1674. Sheez. Bad news.
 
Doh! It's ok....I hope I didn't break the circuit you made me....
Can you tell me exactly which wires to connect to the battery and which to connect to the ls?
Yellow,brown, black, and the other one...forgot the color.
I know, stupid question...but just want to be safe!
 
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by dat2zip:
O, I just figured out who you are.
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I forgot you told me your user name was this. Yes, I got your email.

Bad news. I broke the MAX1675 in making a mod and now I think I smoked the MAX1674. Sheez. Bad news.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have a few MAX1764's, if you need them?

Wayne www.elektrolumens.com
 
My LS drew 350ma @ 3.0 V. It was with optics, from ARC flashlight.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by dat2zip:
Working on some DC/DC converters and need to know what voltage/current people are seeing with the White Luxeons they have.

I've got three from Peter back in Dec last year. Mine are showing 3.0-3.1 Volts at a current of .35A.

I'm curious to see if anyone has any that are 3.5-3.6 near the top end of the specifications.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The last one I tested, a Luxeon Star w/o, with 3.3 volts, I was at 500mA !! Usually, at 3.3, the current is 390mA. So this one would probably run at lower voltage, so I need to test it. Do you want to know at what voltage it is when I get 350mA ??


Wayne www.elektrolumens.com
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Wiring. The wiring should be be easy to figure out. There should be two black wires. These are the GNDs for input and output.

The Wire soldered to the 150uF capacitor would be the output wire.

The remaining wire is the battery + lead.

Just tried to order more Max1675s from Maxim, but Maxims web puked and choked.

I've got two more 1675s of Rogers and I had one 1674, which now appears pale and lifeless.
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I guess I'll try and put another 1675 in the board and hopefully it will fire back up.

Then try the ferrite bead. If that works and has good efficiency then I can start layout tonignt for a circular board.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Bill Aquino:
My LS drew 350ma @ 3.0 V. It was with optics, from ARC flashlight.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ooooh...that's a keeper! I have one that draws 350mA at 2.95V.

Wayne. I got some more luxeons from Peter. One shows 3.3V at 350mA, another shows 3.12V, another shows 3.2V, and the last one I got shows 3.25V.
 
Very interesting data.

I was reading the ArcLS website. They say the ArcLS works best with alkaline batteries and that it will be dimmer with Nimh or Nicad. That's the same pattern as the constant current chips for LEDs in series that step up voltage but don't regulate as battery voltage drops.

I've been looking at the max1674/1675 chips. If 3. volts go in, can they be adjusted to get less than three volts out?

The spec sheets show an output voltage of from 2.0 to 5.5. To get 2.0 out, does the input voltage have to be 2.0 or less?
 
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jeff1500:
Very interesting data.


I've been looking at the max1674/1675 chips. If 3. volts go in, can they be adjusted to get less than three volts out?

The spec sheets show an output voltage of from 2.0 to 5.5. To get 2.0 out, does the input voltage have to be 2.0 or less?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

jeff1500, The Maxim 167X series is a conventional boost converter which requires that Vin be less than Vout. I believe in the 3V in case and the output is less than 3V the IC goes into linear regulator mode and tries to regulate the output. I think I read this but, haven't tested that particular feature of the IC out.

A boost converter raises the input voltage to some higher value. A buck converter I believe does just the opposite. It converts down to a lower voltage. Boost converters by nature are typically less efficient. Where ever possible it is usually more efficient to step down that it is to step up. There are also buck/boost converters that can cross the Vin=Vout boundry but take more components and are typically not very efficient.


For the 2nd question regarding 2V out. You are correct again for a boost converter. Your input voltage must be less than the output voltage. So, for 2V output, your input should be less than 2V.

Also, be aware that most discussions about the luxeon Star are centered around the white LS. The red and amber ones have a different voltage drop across them which is lower than the White and other LS LEDs.

Most 2 cell converter designs are typically for NiMH and NiCD batteries since 1.2V/Cell times two = 2.4 to 2.6V for a fully charged set of batteries. 2 good Alkaline batteries are 1.6V/Cell times two = 3.2V (or higher) for a fresh set of Alkaline batteries. So 2 AA Alkaline will from the number of posted LS voltages would start out higher than the LS voltage and the boost converter might not run or possibly go into linear regulation if they have that feature built into them.
 
In the max1674/1675 specs I see that the chip package is 8 pin microMax.

When you tested the chip, what did you solder it too? A SurfBoard? A preprinted prototype board? Something you made yourself?

What size soldering iron did you use? What size solder?


MrAl's Current Regulating Circuit

Here's MrAl's way of doing it. Ever see a chip that does something like this? It tries to hold output current constant as battery voltage changes.
 
Very nice. There's been a lot of progress around here.

I ordered a couple of max1674/75 chips to experiment with.

Now I've got to figure out what to solder them to. A SurfBoard I guess.
 
jeff1500,

I am using a metcal sodering station with a Bausch and Lomb stereo zoom microscope 7-30X and fine solder. I don't know the diameter of the solder. I do know that the solder is actually a little on the large size for the MAXIM small footprint and leads. The small metcal tip is also somewhat too big too. It's fine for SOIC and regular SMT parts but the Maxim 8 pin is pushing it. Don't try the MAXIM 1676 since there are 5 pins on a side and the package is the same size. The leads are smaller on the 1676 and are the hardest ones to solder.

I do most of my work after hours at work and we have two SMT re-work stations on one bench.

I also use tweezers of various types. The industrial kind.

I do my boards in Eagle Layout PCB software and then I toner transfer the image to copper clad board before etching them. So, my boards are custom made. During development I only make one or two. I then load and test them. If I find I need to do something different, I go back and change the schematic and layout and re-do the whole process. I've can average about a board a day change for these small converter designs.

If you want to do serious work, you will need an assortment of SMT capacitors and a good assortment of SMT resisitors, power inductors.

if you can't afford a B&L $2,000 stereo microscope, then, the next best thing is a tweezers with magnifier on it. There are several different models I've seen on the web.

The one I got at the local hobby store is called "Craft & jewely Tools" by Cousin Corporation of America, Largo, FL 34649. Made In Taiwan part number 4461 and list priced at $7.95. You can hold the SMT part and look through the magnifier to see where you are soldering it.
 
jeff1500,

The Maxim 167X series are touching in the layout. It took me 5 layout version before I got one that was stable and got the efficiency numbers that was close or matched the data sheet. As such, if you want a revision 5 raw board for free, then, email me and I can give you the details on how to get a free revision 5 board that will accept the MAX1675 or MAX1674.

This particular IC will regulate in almost any wired configuration, but, it takes a clean layout to keep it from glitching.

[email protected]

Edited update:
Touching?? I meant the layout affects the circuit performance and improper layout on this particular IC is very sensitive to layout. Most converters are not layout sensitve. This particular one must have a solid plane from the GND pin to the Output capacitor GND and it must be as short as possible.
 
dat2zip, are you still looking for the LS data?

I have two of them and both have about 350mA at 3.3 volts (one at exactly 2.26 volts after running about 10 minutes with 350mA and a good heatsinking)
 
i'm not sure what the big hub-bub is with soldering these small parts...i have a 60watt (yes, 60W) weller that has a larger than needed tip on it and i do just fine...for temperature control i use an old lighting dimmer...got the weller for like $15 on ebay and i inherited the dimmer from my uncle, it's probably 20 years old...just smear everything in flux before you start and the solder will flow to the metal...when you use too much just put a wick on it...easy as pie...

as for magnification, i got some $5 8X sherlock holmes style glass that's not great, but it works...again, off of ebay...combined with a strong light i can check my work well...
 
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