LS20 UI thought....

[smokelaw1]

First off---I LOVE MY LS20! So useable, so common sense....just right in so many ways!

My only thought....any body else have the issue that the Dragon doesn't come on until the last 1/32 of a turn or so? I need to move the head MUCH further to get "high" than I have had to with any other McGizmo...to the point of bringing the head to the end of its travel!
Not a real big issue, not really any issue....but I can't let any light's UI be "perfect."

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

Mines like every other Pd I have. Maybe you need to monkey around wirth it....

 

[smokelaw1]

Mines like every other Pd I have. Maybe you need to monkey around wirth it....

Good idea...I think I remember Don saying these were really easy to put together and he recomended any low level hobbyists open them up and tinker around with the guts! or something like that!

 

[schiesz]

IIRC, to engage high sooner, you need to adjust the kilroy outward a bit. If you search for "kilroy adjust" or something like that you should find some nice descriptions of it. No one here is going to recommend you take apart the head!

**EDIT***

Looks like I was remembering wrong I found a few related threads, but it appears that the kilroy makes contact for low, and should not really effect high.

These might help a bit, but you might want to send Don a message to get his take on it:

High not functioning

High and low out

Sorry I couldn't help more, but I did find some good kilroy pictures!

 

[smokelaw1]

IIRC, to engage high sooner, you need to adjust the kilroy outward a bit. If you search for "kilroy adjust" or something like that you should find some nice descriptions of it. No one here is going to recommend you take apart the head!

I was just kidding about taking apart the head. I thought I was clearly sarcastic. Sometimes that's hard on the net... I'll search for that very thing....unless anyone has a quick and easy tutorial? is this an OK action for me to take...Don?

 

[schiesz]

I knew you were kidding abut taking apart the head, I just didn't know if you knew that there was an adjustment you could make without taking it apart.

Now, since I found that the kilroy doesn't effect high, it doesn't really matter.

Good luck with the LS20.

 

[McGizmo]

If you feel too much distance is between low and high, bend Kilroy down closer to the head. This will reduce the amount of rotation or piston displacement between low and high.

 

[smokelaw1]

If you feel too much distance is between low and high, bend Kilroy down closer to the head. This will reduce the amount of rotation or piston displacement between low and high.

Thanks Don! I'll give it a shot when I get home!

 

[schiesz]

Thanks Don! I'll give it a shot when I get home!

:shakehead
You mean that you don't have your LS20 on you at all times?

 

[smokelaw1]

Not even this more EDCable Lunasol looks good in suit pants!

 

[js]

:shakehead
You mean that you don't have your LS20 on you at all times?

Yeah. What's up with dat? Clearly you need to re-examine your priorities or something. Your LS20 should be on you at all times, even when you are asleep.

 

[js]

First off---I LOVE MY LS20! So useable, so common sense....just right in so many ways!

My only thought....any body else have the issue that the Dragon doesn't come on until the last 1/32 of a turn or so? I need to move the head MUCH further to get "high" than I have had to with any other McGizmo...to the point of bringing the head to the end of its travel!
Not a real big issue, not really any issue....but I can't let any light's UI be "perfect."

On a serious note, when you say "bringing the head to the end of its travel" do you mean that it is only 1/32 of a turn away from bottoming out so-to-speak, so that the flare of the head itself would butt up against the PD body itself?

Because that doesn't seem right, and the kilroy wouldn't have anything to do with that. On my LS20 I have at least 1/16 of an inch gap, and more like 3/32, when high engages. And it's somewhat under 1/2 a turn from when low engages til when high engages, and obviously the kilroy is completely responsible for that. If I wanted less "distance" between high and low, I could bend the spring in a bit, closer to the head. But that still wouldn't change how much of a gap there was between the head-flare and the body when high engaged.

Am I understanding your problem correctly?

 

[smokelaw1]

I actually don't know if it is hitting the body or the end of the threads. I'll have to look more closely tonight. I know the head stops turning a very, very short amount of "turn" after high engages. Probably close to a full turn after low.

 

[McGizmo]

Reaching high is when the piston should be bottoming out against the contact ring and limiting any further advancement. That you may feel additional rotation is either due to some backlash in the threads allowing for further rotation or you are forcing the piston a bit further back against the clips screws which are its effective stop at the rear.

 

[souptree]

Yeah. What's up with dat? Clearly you need to re-examine your priorities or something. Your LS20 should be on you at all times, even when you are asleep.

I haven't slept with my LS27 out of reach since I got it.

 

[js]

I actually don't know if it is hitting the body or the end of the threads. I'll have to look more closely tonight. I know the head stops turning a very, very short amount of "turn" after high engages. Probably close to a full turn after low.

smokelaw1,

Ah. I see. This is the way it should be. By definition, so to speak, the head stops turning when high engages. That's because the electrical contact for high is the entire ring at the base of the head, at the end of the threads. That ring is incomplete and opens up where the kilroy spring is. The kilroy spring sticks out above (or below, depending on how you look at it) the ring. Thus when you turn the head in, the first thing to touch the inner piston drive is the kilroy spring. At that point low turns on, and at that point, high is off because the ring at the butt end of the head is NOT touching the piston. As you keep turning, the kilroy keeps touching but gets compressed inward, until the point where both the ring and the kilroy are touching. This is when high turns on, and this is when the head stops turning. By design.

Nothing is wrong. It is as it should be.

Or at least I think so. Bernie or Don or someone else please correct me if I'm wrong. But in any case, this is exactly how mine works. I can only turn the head a small fraction of a turn tighter after high first engages.

 

[Kiessling]

How could one like me ever dare to correct Mr. js? :nana:

But yepp, what he said. High is a hard stop.
Feelgood stop.

 

[smokelaw1]

OH, ok, then I guess hte only difference I am noticing with the other lights is that LOW seems to be on for a long time (well, a long amount of rotation) before high comes on. Interesting. Is the point of rotation at which low comes on adjustable by the end user?

 

[BigHonu]

If it is the same design as the older PDs, then bend the U shaped spring (Killroy) down a smidge. The amount you need to twist from low to high should be shortened.

edited: Don mentioned the same thing some posts up.

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

If you feel too much distance is between low and high, bend Kilroy down closer to the head. This will reduce the amount of rotation or piston displacement between low and high.

Thats what I meant with monkey around with it.