Lux III moded to SSC P4 with problems

[kosPap]

Greetings guys! it seems these days are not good for modding.

So I got my Ft02 Huntlight and the parts to mod it wiht a SSC P4

I did it OK and results wer spetacular for tjis flashlights

BUT I played some with the relector screwing it up or down in order to get a better focus and then the flashlight started dimming down ALOT!

Back to the bench, took it apart and It smelled like burned brakes or iron cutting wheel. Remoned the led and found that it did not contact the copper shim, because its base was clean of epoxy.

Re=did the whole lot, and it still is low starting from aroub 50 eyeballed lumens and going to about 30, though it smells less now.

So what may have been done wrong?

- Bad thermal transfer due to too much epoxy under the led or the shim?
- I have already cooked the led, reducing its outpt for keeps? (though its tint is still very white (USXOH bin)
- A sort? (but I have added at insulator cover under the reflector)
- a sort between the base and the SSC emitter bottom?

I am anxious for your input cos I am afraid I ruined a rare and useful flashligt!

 

[datiLED]

Greetings guys! it seems these days are not good for modding.

So I got my Ft02 Huntlight and the parts to mod it wiht a SSC P4

I did it OK and results wer spetacular for tjis flashlights

BUT I played some with the relector screwing it up or down in order to get a better focus and then the flashlight started dimming down ALOT!

Back to the bench, took it apart and It smelled like burned brakes or iron cutting wheel. Remoned the led and found that it did not contact the copper shim, because its base was clean of epoxy.

Re=did the whole lot, and it still is low starting from aroub 50 eyeballed lumens and going to about 30, though it smells less now.

So what may have been done wrong?

- Bad thermal transfer due to too much epoxy under the led or the shim?
- I have already cooked the led, reducing its outpt for keeps? (though its tint is still very white (USXOH bin)
- A sort? (but I have added at insulator cover under the reflector)
- a sort between the base and the SSC emitter bottom?

I am anxious for your input cos I am afraid I ruined a rare and useful flashligt!

Your best bet would be to remove the Seoul and connect the original LED, or another good LED to be sure that your driver is still functioning properly. If you shorted the LED to ground, you may have damaged the LED, the driver circuit, or both. You need to find out now, so you are not wasting time.

The Seoul LED is particular about proper heatsinking, and will not tolerate reverse polarity for long. When you play by the rules, it is a very good performer. You must keep the thermal adhesive very thin, and avoid shorting the base to ground. A continuity tester is useful to ensure that you do not have contact.

Good luck!

 

[Gunner12]

The Seoul P4 LED has a positive base, unlike the Luxeon with a negative base. You need to isolate the base of the LED if you are attaching it to a bare heat-sink.

Yes, check to find the part that you have broken.

I'm guessing you might have burned out the regulator.

 

[kosPap]

I'm guessing you might have burned out the regulator.

update with a question...

I retested the flashlight. Output is big at start but within a minute drops off alot. starts to smell a bit.
ut can the regulator be burned in this case? wouldn't the light stop working?

thanks, kostas

 

[Gunner12]

The regualtor might be burned out but sometimes, depending on how it burned out, it will still let current through, so you Seoul might be in direct drive right now.