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Chris M.
Flashlight Enthusiast
No probs- it`s nice to be of some use sometimes
Now then, those beam profiles. I have adjusted them to look as close to the real colour as I can make it though some still aren`t quite right (namely the blue and Cyan). Of course different screens will give different results, but for those who want to know what I used to do it, it`s a 17 inch NEC MultiSync 5FGp (those giant huge 2 foot deep ones that weigh a ton), and it looks like about 6500K colour temperature.
Included in the picture are the peak beam candela figures I got from my meter and also measured volts/amps figures. I`m not entirely sure how accurate my meter is over the colour spectrum, it does give unusually low readings for the blue- which appeared to me as one of the brightest, though the rest look about right. But, don`t take them as exact though, just an approximation.
Note- when I originally posted these pics I had incorrect readings for the Red, Cyan and Amber- they were a factor of 10 too high. It was late, I was tired and full of beer....you know. But I`ve now put them right.
<center>
</center>
The exposure has been adjusted in each to give the best beam definition. Most of these have a much wider peripheral beam than is shown, but the hot-spot is many times brighter and flares out as a white mess if I opened the iris any more to show it.
Looks like the red one is the winner here number-wise, followed closely by the Cyan and Amber (which surprised me since I thought Amber was brighter than red- it isn`t). The rest pull up the rear though the white one looks brighter than it may seem by numbers alone since it`s a much more broadband light- hence clearer to see by. The more monochromatic colours, though brighter, will not necessarily be better. I just hope my white Arc-LS`s don`t turn out to be all purply like my white Luxeon I have here.
I`ll have a good play round..er..carry out further serious testing of them, to see which one I ultimately would like best in the Arc-LS. Of course whatever the outcome, "your opinions may vary".
damn, only allowed 8 images, there goes most of my smillies....
Now then, those beam profiles. I have adjusted them to look as close to the real colour as I can make it though some still aren`t quite right (namely the blue and Cyan). Of course different screens will give different results, but for those who want to know what I used to do it, it`s a 17 inch NEC MultiSync 5FGp (those giant huge 2 foot deep ones that weigh a ton), and it looks like about 6500K colour temperature.
Included in the picture are the peak beam candela figures I got from my meter and also measured volts/amps figures. I`m not entirely sure how accurate my meter is over the colour spectrum, it does give unusually low readings for the blue- which appeared to me as one of the brightest, though the rest look about right. But, don`t take them as exact though, just an approximation.
Note- when I originally posted these pics I had incorrect readings for the Red, Cyan and Amber- they were a factor of 10 too high. It was late, I was tired and full of beer....you know. But I`ve now put them right.
<center>
The exposure has been adjusted in each to give the best beam definition. Most of these have a much wider peripheral beam than is shown, but the hot-spot is many times brighter and flares out as a white mess if I opened the iris any more to show it.
Looks like the red one is the winner here number-wise, followed closely by the Cyan and Amber (which surprised me since I thought Amber was brighter than red- it isn`t). The rest pull up the rear though the white one looks brighter than it may seem by numbers alone since it`s a much more broadband light- hence clearer to see by. The more monochromatic colours, though brighter, will not necessarily be better. I just hope my white Arc-LS`s don`t turn out to be all purply like my white Luxeon I have here.
I`ll have a good play round..er..carry out further serious testing of them, to see which one I ultimately would like best in the Arc-LS. Of course whatever the outcome, "your opinions may vary".
damn, only allowed 8 images, there goes most of my smillies....
Silviron
Flashlight Enthusiast
Nice work, Thanks!
Chris M.
Flashlight Enthusiast
I now have all 6 currently avaliable Luxeon Star LED colours here (the "batwing" current generation, no high domes
)- thanks again to mr Gransee at Arc Flashlight for supplying them to us lot.
I thought, for the benefit of those undecided on their choice of Arc-LS colour, or those wanting to make a LED mod with some more power but can`t decide which one is best, that I`d post a side by side comparison of them.
So here they are...
<center>
</center>
I just seriesed them together for simplicity (so I could hook them to one PSU) and here, just 30mA is fed through so you know which is which. The pic below shows them on about 320mA and underexposed to try and show the colours. It`s pretty accurate, but the white in reality is a little more purply (don`t worry they are not all like that though) and the amber is a bit more yellowy- it`s identical to the colour of low pressure Sodium streetlighting. I know, cos I`ve got one in here
and compared the two earlier on.
Here...
<center>
</center>
It`s still a bit light to go taking beam profiles and peak beam candela readings, but I`ll do it later and post here. Probably the beam pics will be similarly underexposed to show all the characteristics and flaws (and adjusted to show the true colour), otherwise it`s just a big white flare which is of little use to anyone deciding which one to buy.
More to come....
I thought, for the benefit of those undecided on their choice of Arc-LS colour, or those wanting to make a LED mod with some more power but can`t decide which one is best, that I`d post a side by side comparison of them.
So here they are...
<center>
I just seriesed them together for simplicity (so I could hook them to one PSU) and here, just 30mA is fed through so you know which is which. The pic below shows them on about 320mA and underexposed to try and show the colours. It`s pretty accurate, but the white in reality is a little more purply (don`t worry they are not all like that though) and the amber is a bit more yellowy- it`s identical to the colour of low pressure Sodium streetlighting. I know, cos I`ve got one in here
Here...
<center>
It`s still a bit light to go taking beam profiles and peak beam candela readings, but I`ll do it later and post here. Probably the beam pics will be similarly underexposed to show all the characteristics and flaws (and adjusted to show the true colour), otherwise it`s just a big white flare which is of little use to anyone deciding which one to buy.
More to come....
Silviron
Flashlight Enthusiast
Just finished a quick test on my Amber LS--
On 2 AAA (Rayovac rechargable) alkalines, the Amber LS registered 314 LUX at 1 meter initially, although that fell to 250 LUX in about a minute.
After a couple of minutes the multi-meter said it was drawing 200mA @ 2.62 V. (2.9V no load)
Here is a beam comparison with a 2AA Mini-mag (with about 15 minutes on 2 Energizer "regular" alkalines):
The max LUX measurement on the Mini-Mag with the beam adjusted to closest match with the LS was 227. (although I got over 600 LUX with the beam at its tightest focus on the light meter from 1 M)
After 30 minutes the LS LUX was 160 at 1 meter
After 2 hours 125 LUX
3.5 hours: 89 LUX
6 hours: 45 LUX
12 hours; 4 LUX
21 hours: 4 LUX
27 hours: 3 LUX at one meter.
Will try this on a couple of C and/or D cells soon.
On 2 AAA (Rayovac rechargable) alkalines, the Amber LS registered 314 LUX at 1 meter initially, although that fell to 250 LUX in about a minute.
After a couple of minutes the multi-meter said it was drawing 200mA @ 2.62 V. (2.9V no load)
Here is a beam comparison with a 2AA Mini-mag (with about 15 minutes on 2 Energizer "regular" alkalines):
The max LUX measurement on the Mini-Mag with the beam adjusted to closest match with the LS was 227. (although I got over 600 LUX with the beam at its tightest focus on the light meter from 1 M)
After 30 minutes the LS LUX was 160 at 1 meter
After 2 hours 125 LUX
3.5 hours: 89 LUX
6 hours: 45 LUX
12 hours; 4 LUX
21 hours: 4 LUX
27 hours: 3 LUX at one meter.
Will try this on a couple of C and/or D cells soon.
JoeyL
Enlightened
...a quick question:
on the picture for the turquoise spot, is that 2,920 candelas, or 292.0?
If it's 2,920, does it appear that much brighter than the white?
Thanks.
on the picture for the turquoise spot, is that 2,920 candelas, or 292.0?
If it's 2,920, does it appear that much brighter than the white?
Thanks.
Silviron
Flashlight Enthusiast
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Spidey82:
how abt touching the led with the light meter to know how much light it gives of in total
Linfeng<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Ok- I started the Amber LS test on 2 C cells (new Duracells with 2005 exp.)
With fresh batteries:
With the LED right on the light sensor I get 37,600 LUX.
From 1 meter- 350 LUX
2.8V @ 270 Ma
(3.08V no load)
how abt touching the led with the light meter to know how much light it gives of in total
Linfeng<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Ok- I started the Amber LS test on 2 C cells (new Duracells with 2005 exp.)
With fresh batteries:
With the LED right on the light sensor I get 37,600 LUX.
From 1 meter- 350 LUX
2.8V @ 270 Ma
(3.08V no load)
Chris M.
Flashlight Enthusiast
FIRST I must point out that I made a mistake. The red, yellow and turquoise readings are off by a factor of 10. Sorry, I should have spotted this sooner but didn`t- it was late and I was tired, and got confused.
I`ll amend the diagrams in a moment. Sorry for any confusion caused
.
Spidey- the reason I took my readings the way I did (LEDs at 12 inches from sensor, meter reading in foot candles = beam candelas)is to give figures that could be related to other figures published elsewhere. Beam Candelas are used by LED manufacturers like Nichia to rate their products. An average white Nichia LED is 5.6 candelas in a 10 degree (half-angle) beam.
If I were to put the Luxeons flat against the sensor`s face then although they would catch maybe 98-99% of the light, it would give fairly meaningless high numbers I could do little with, other than compare between. I would have no way to relate that to any other standard measurements. I think my Peak Beam Candela readings up there do that quite well.
You`re thinking about Lumens, right? Sorry, it`s a lot harder than that. Expensive photometric equipment is needed to measure lumen output. Thankfully a cheap digital light meter will work taking beam candelas.
on the picture for the turquoise spot, is that 2,920 candelas, or 292.0?
If it's 2,920, does it appear that much brighter than the white?
Yes my mistake- as I highlighted at the start of this post. Mis-interpreted the reading on the meter due to tiredness and beer
Turquoise vs White....hold on let`s find them and hook them up. 348mA through both in series and even though it`s daytime now and a bit bright, I would say the Turquoise is brighter. But....it has a narrower hotspot in the beam. The white`s beam is softer, and wider by about 75-100% so it will naturally appear dimmer. White will also be the clearest to see by as colours will show up as nature intended. Under turquoise light (which in this case is very greeny like those "green" traffic lights that look sort of blue-green), some colours like reds will look almost black.
The white is certainly the best all-round choice, but for longer throw especially outdoors in a land of green stuff (plants), turquoise would be a good choice.
I`ll amend the diagrams in a moment. Sorry for any confusion caused
Spidey- the reason I took my readings the way I did (LEDs at 12 inches from sensor, meter reading in foot candles = beam candelas)is to give figures that could be related to other figures published elsewhere. Beam Candelas are used by LED manufacturers like Nichia to rate their products. An average white Nichia LED is 5.6 candelas in a 10 degree (half-angle) beam.
If I were to put the Luxeons flat against the sensor`s face then although they would catch maybe 98-99% of the light, it would give fairly meaningless high numbers I could do little with, other than compare between. I would have no way to relate that to any other standard measurements. I think my Peak Beam Candela readings up there do that quite well.
You`re thinking about Lumens, right? Sorry, it`s a lot harder than that. Expensive photometric equipment is needed to measure lumen output. Thankfully a cheap digital light meter will work taking beam candelas.
on the picture for the turquoise spot, is that 2,920 candelas, or 292.0?
If it's 2,920, does it appear that much brighter than the white?
Yes my mistake- as I highlighted at the start of this post. Mis-interpreted the reading on the meter due to tiredness and beer
Turquoise vs White....hold on let`s find them and hook them up. 348mA through both in series and even though it`s daytime now and a bit bright, I would say the Turquoise is brighter. But....it has a narrower hotspot in the beam. The white`s beam is softer, and wider by about 75-100% so it will naturally appear dimmer. White will also be the clearest to see by as colours will show up as nature intended. Under turquoise light (which in this case is very greeny like those "green" traffic lights that look sort of blue-green), some colours like reds will look almost black.
The white is certainly the best all-round choice, but for longer throw especially outdoors in a land of green stuff (plants), turquoise would be a good choice.
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