M@g85/09 build & some questions

hoongern

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Apr 19, 2009
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435
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Cambridge, MA & Malaysia
Hi guys,

I recently acquired a Mag2D, and decided to build a Mag85 (later to be upgraded to a Mag09 with the FM1909 bulb).

I built it using a Kiu socket, KD V3 SMO aluminum (15mm) reflector, and borofloat lens (still on the way). Currently being powered by 3xIMR18500 in a PVC pipe, later to be changed to 3xIMR26500.

For reference, I went to a DIY shop and bought a pack of "soda" crystals (for drain cleaning) for just $1.50, and that and a bit of water deanodized my tailcap in 5 minutes.

I'm pretty satisfied so far with the results - it really throws much further than all my other lights! However, it doesn't seem as bright as my other 1185 running in FiveMega's D26/G4 Sunlite socket. Maybe it is, but I'm not sure. I haven't really done a proper ceiling bounce test.

So there are 2 questions I have here:

1) I'm currently using Aluminum foil to bridge the gap between the tailcap and the cell's negative contact. I thought of changing to copper braid - would it make any noticeable difference over the alum foil?

2) The KD v3 SMO reflector has a pretty large bulb opening - 15mm to be exact. I'm concerned that I'm loosing light down here, or at least not getting it to throw as far as it could. I know that bigC didn't get any difference when using the 15mm reflector and smaller reflector openings in terms of lumens, but would it make my Mag throw further?

As 1) is much easier to deal with, I'm wondering about point 2) particularly because I'm probably going to be making an order from Litho for a couple bulbs, and he still has the .377" (~9mm) SMO reflectors available. However, if it's not really going to make much difference over the KD reflector, I wouldn't want to get it.

Does anyone here have both these reflectors - and do you see any noticeable change in beamshape/throw?

Thanks guys!

Edit: Some pics of the build so far:

Here's the Mag 2D along with my PVC battery tube (I used foam tape to wrap around):
mag-battube.jpg


With 3xIMR18500 installed (Waiting for the IMR26500):
mag-batinstalled.jpg


KD v3 SMO Reflector & WA1185 bulb on Kiu socket. It's centered, although it doesn't look like it - because of the angle. As you can see, the reflector opening is pretty large:
mag-reflector.jpg


Tailcap with copper wire:
mag-tailcap.jpg
 
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Hi, hoongern,


When I used to mod incan lights frequently I ran into some of the same issues. Resistance and reflector quality.

I never tried using foil for a connection, but its real hard to beat a nice thick piece of copper when it comes to lowering resistance. I'd say you've got nothing to loose by trying the copper braid. I am guessing this will help.

Second the hole in the base of your reflector may cause a little bit of loss, but the biggest difference I ever saw was when I went from using a KD reflector in my M*g 623 to using a quality reflector from Fivemega (granted the KD reflector was well used and had been cleaned a time or two). This made a visible difference in light output. I don't have any of lithos reflectors, but I would say it is a possibility.

One other small thing I will mention. If you are not familiar with deoxit gold you may want to look into getting some of that. Its an oil that only costs about 5$, and you can treat all your metal to metal contacts like the tail spring, threads, battery pos, etc with it and it will help lower resistance as well.

Good luck, I hope this helps.😀
 
1) I'm currently using Aluminum foil to bridge the gap between the tailcap and the cell's negative contact. I thought of changing to copper braid - would it make any noticeable difference over the alum foil?

I do the same thing but one member described how to take cooper braid(about 4 inches)-press it against the bottom of a de-anodized cap-press a small piece of two way tape down to keep it in place-and then fold it over to make contact with the batteries.Should make a noticeable difference.
2)I'm concerned that I'm loosing light down here......

You are.....but some of the tight fitting reflectors I have seen have a flat spot at the bottom which produces a very ugly beam.If someone can point you in the direction of a tight fitting reflector without the flat bottom than that's the way to go.
 
Hi, hoongern,
I never tried using foil for a connection, but its real hard to beat a nice thick piece of copper when it comes to lowering resistance. I'd say you've got nothing to loose by trying the copper braid. I am guessing this will help.

It did! I decided to get out some of my old braided copper wire and stripped a long piece, and coiled it up manually, and then glued it into place. I'll probably solder it later on when my setup is more finalized. (My multimeter is a cheap one, but with alum foil, it was showing ~ 3ohms of resistance - and after the copper wire "fix", it's now at 0.4 ohms!!) I haven't tested this outdoors yet, but I'm sure that there should be quite a difference.

Second the hole in the base of your reflector may cause a little bit of loss, but the biggest difference I ever saw was when I went from using a KD reflector in my M*g 623 to using a quality reflector from Fivemega (granted the KD reflector was well used and had been cleaned a time or two). This made a visible difference in light output. I don't have any of lithos reflectors, but I would say it is a possibility.
Hmm... was the difference actually in light output or in throw? Was your FM reflector the same dimensions as your KD reflector? I'll wait to see if anyone has experience with the Litho reflectors - I'm reluctant to spend $20 if it doesn't have a noticeable difference.

One other small thing I will mention. If you are not familiar with deoxit gold you may want to look into getting some of that. Its an oil that only costs about 5$, and you can treat all your metal to metal contacts like the tail spring, threads, battery pos, etc with it and it will help lower resistance as well.

Good luck, I hope this helps.😀
I have Deoxit Red and Gold - and all contact points have been treated with both of them 🙂 It does work marvels indeed! Anyway, thanks for the tips!

I do the same thing but one member described how to take cooper braid(about 4 inches)-press it against the bottom of a de-anodized cap-press a small piece of two way tape down to keep it in place-and then fold it over to make contact with the batteries.Should make a noticeable difference.

As mentioned above, quite a difference! Btw, I wonder what a cooper braid is 😀 hahah, I'll assume that was a typo.

You are.....but some of the tight fitting reflectors I have seen have a flat spot at the bottom which produces a very ugly beam.If someone can point you in the direction of a tight fitting reflector without the flat bottom than that's the way to go.
Hmm.. I'm not sure what the Litho reflectors are like....

EDIT: Saw LuxLuthor's Mega Reflector Shootout but no comparison with my current 15mm KD reflector.
 
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You are.....but some of the tight fitting reflectors I have seen have a flat spot at the bottom which produces a very ugly beam.If someone can point you in the direction of a tight fitting reflector without the flat bottom than that's the way to go.
Ver2 Deep M*g Reflector by Fivemega
i have it on my mag85, beautiful beam, the hole is just a bit bigger than 1185 bulb.
 
The FM deep m*g reflector is the best I've used for the 1185. The modamag is another good one the sandwitch shop sells.
Reflectors make a differance.
Billy
 
I say you most certainly need to switch to the 26500's! The 18500's just don't have the capacity to keep the bulb running at a high output, they'll fall off rather quickly, seeing that you have 1100mAH as opposed to 2300mAH.

As for the reflector differences, I personally think that a larger opening and smaller bulb will cause the bat wing shadows, which outside won't be very detectable as opposed to inside when doing white wall hunting or a ceiling bounce test, this is from my personal experience using both styles of reflectors. Litho and FM's are the best IMO, the Modamags are of high quality but the hot spot is very diffused when compared side by side to either the Litho or the FM. As has been stated, the FM deeps are superior and will give you the most bang for your buck, if you dont mind spending a little more money. 😉

Edit; Also I hate SMO reflectors! Just have never been my preference, the shadows really aggravate me. I would suggest at least a LOP texture to smooth out the artifacts.
 
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Ver2 Deep M*g Reflector by Fivemega
i have it on my mag85, beautiful beam, the hole is just a bit bigger than 1185 bulb.

The FM deep m*g reflector is the best I've used for the 1185. The modamag is another good one the sandwitch shop sells.
Reflectors make a differance.
Billy

I'm actually not interested at all in the beam quality - as this mag is purely for outdoor use. I have other lights for indoor use which have nicer beams (Like my Quark and LF IMR-9) - so I'm not concerned with uneven beam or batwings.

And from what I read about the deep reflector, its hotspot is actually smaller than a regular reflector, but doesn't actually throw further with a 1185. (Now if I was using a Mag11, I would consider it as it seems to vastly improve the throw of the Mag11)


I say you most certainly need to switch to the 26500's! The 18500's just don't have the capacity to keep the bulb running at a high output, they'll fall off rather quickly, seeing that you have 1100mAH as opposed to 2300mAH.

As for the reflector differences, I personally think that a larger opening and smaller bulb will cause the bat wing shadows, which outside won't be very detectable as opposed to inside when doing white wall hunting or a ceiling bounce test, this is from my personal experience using both styles of reflectors. Litho and FM's are the best IMO, the Modamags are of high quality but the hot spot is very diffused when compared side by side to either the Litho or the FM. As has been stated, the FM deeps are superior and will give you the most bang for your buck, if you dont mind spending a little more money. 😉

Edit; Also I hate SMO reflectors! Just have never been my preference, the shadows really aggravate me. I would suggest at least a LOP texture to smooth out the artifacts.

I'm definitely going to be using 26500s with the 1909 bulb, but I would think that there's a danger using them with the 1185? I don't have any softstart, and won't have one for a while (I'm thinking of getting a JimmyM regulator in a couple months, hence why I got the Kiu, but this won't be for a while)

Hmm.. I'm wondering if anyone has done a direct comparison with the KD reflector and the Litho one. I don't think that I will get the FM deep reflector (reasons mentioned earlier in this post) - even though it does give a beauuutiful beam.

And yes - the shadow aggravate me indoors, but I just haven't noticed anything at all outdoors (esp shining at things more than a couple meters away), so I'm fine with SMO. I actually have a borofloat with LDF film which I will be using when I use it indoors - for a clean floody beam.
 
Hmm... was the difference actually in light output or in throw? Was your FM reflector the same dimensions as your KD reflector? I'll wait to see if anyone has experience with the Litho reflectors - I'm reluctant to spend $20 if it doesn't have a noticeable difference.

Again My KD reflector had been cleaned with rubbing alcohol a couple of times, and was somewhat used, so there may have bee some loss of light there. However when I went to the style of reflector FM was selling at the time (New Generation Hybrid) The quality of the MOP finish was excellent, and there was a drastic change in light out put. The throw was also a little better, but there was no doubt more light. The change in a M*g 85 would not be as drastic, but may be noticeable.

I am glad to hear you did the copper braid fix. I think with this and going to the large cells you are probly getting pretty close to the full effect. If I was in your position and 20$ was a questionable amount of money to part with for something I was on the fence about, I would just skip the reflector, and put that money toward another project later. Just MHO.
 
I'm definitely going to be using 26500s with the 1909 bulb, but I would think that there's a danger using them with the 1185? I don't have any softstart, and won't have one for a while (I'm thinking of getting a JimmyM regulator in a couple months, hence why I got the Kiu, but this won't be for a while)

There is definitely a good chance of instaflashing the AW1185 with 3X26500, especially with the resistance mods you have done so far.
 
If I was in your position and 20$ was a questionable amount of money to part with for something I was on the fence about, I would just skip the reflector, and put that money toward another project later. Just MHO.

Hmm, I guess so. I'd rather save up for an FM 2.5 ThrowMaster (which, of course, may be all gone by the time I do so!), but anyway, if anyone has had experience with the Litho reflector, I'd be interested to hear!

There is definitely a good chance of instaflashing the AW1185 with 3X26500, especially with the resistance mods you have done so far.

Yup - when using 26500 with 1185, I will only be charging up to just under 4.1V rather than 4.2 (the 26500s are mainly for the 1909). I wish AW's C Li-Co cells were still available, though. Sigh.
 
I just got a Litho reflector (its actually made by Carley), a MOP to be exact. I put it in my Mag11 and am very satisfied with it. Once you get the bulb height adjusted properly its a nearly perfect beam. I will definately get another one when I put together my Mag85 which I slowly getting parts for.
 
I just got a Litho reflector (its actually made by Carley), a MOP to be exact. I put it in my Mag11 and am very satisfied with it. Once you get the bulb height adjusted properly its a nearly perfect beam. I will definately get another one when I put together my Mag85 which I slowly getting parts for.

Yeah that's why I love those reflectors so much! To bad Greg said the next run on them is going to come with a price increase (due to the manufacturer). 🙁
 
Hmm... I think I will get a Litho SMO. I'm thinking of modding another mag anyway, so I'll probably need a 2nd reflector. Better get it while the price is 'lower'.

I also hope my 1909, borofloat & borofloat LDF arrive soon... Sigh.
 
Hmm... I think I will get a Litho SMO. I'm thinking of modding another mag anyway, so I'll probably need a 2nd reflector. Better get it while the price is 'lower'.

I also hope my 1909, borofloat & borofloat LDF arrive soon... Sigh.

If you can get one! Greg hasn't been on in almost 3 weeks, I've been waiting on a Paypal refund that whole time as well. I think several people are getting frustrated on his sales thread over on CPFMP. :poke:
 
There is definitely a good chance of instaflashing the AW1185 with 3X26500, especially with the resistance mods you have done so far.

Just found out the hard way! Got my 26500s today, all at 4.08V, so I figured that they wouldn't blow the 1185 (Since they weren't charged up to 4.2V) - but alas, the 1185 blew.

Guess I'll only be using the 26500s with 1909, or maybe I'll add aluminum foil for added resistance when using them with the 1185s.
 
Just found out the hard way! Got my 26500s today, all at 4.08V, so I figured that they wouldn't blow the 1185 (Since they weren't charged up to 4.2V) - but alas, the 1185 blew.

Guess I'll only be using the 26500s with 1909, or maybe I'll add aluminum foil for added resistance when using them with the 1185s.

A moment of silence for another dead 1185. :mecry:

No worries thou, I guess all of us have to instaflash a couple of them before we master them.
 
Hey guys,

I finally completed my Mag09 build - I had to wait ages for my borofloat lens. It's really awesome - I'll try and get some beamshots sometime

I have 2 more queries though:

1) How do you guys keep the bulb secured in the Kiu socket? I find that if my Mag received a sharp force (i.e. falls over), the bulb changes position and I have to reposition it. Afaik, there is no "set screw" to fix the bulb position.

2) I find that 3x26500 does not contact the positive contact on the Mag switch. As of now, I am using a small round magnet on the top of the first 26500. How do you guys overcome this? I was thinking of soldering a blob of solder on top of the existing screw or some small bit of copper/aluminum. Would this work?
 
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