M-L-H (or just H) twisty AAA - neutral white EDC easy one-hand ON/OFF

Muse

Newly Enlightened
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Mar 9, 2007
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78
Can't seem to find a for-me-ideal EDC AAA twisty.

Not the L-M-H iTP A3 EOS 96 Lumen Flashlight -Upgrade Version 1 X AAA -- This is L-M-H and I rarely use L.

I have had Lumintop AAA M-L-H EDCs. I lost one a few weeks ago. It was OK, never used the back On/Off button. I bought another on Amazon and had to return it because even with the O ring removed and lubricated with silicone grease, it was way too hard to turn On/Off. It was driving me nuts.

I bought a couple other model Lumintop AAA M-L-H flashlights a couple weeks ago off Amazon, this one:

LUMINTOP Tool AAA series Mini Keychain Flashlight with reversible clip(SET-2 TailCaps Neutral White,Color Temperature 4000K)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D1EBEUG/?tag=cpf0b6-20

It is ideal for me in every respect except that the light is anything but neutral white. It's very overbalanced to the yellow part of the spectrum and I hate it. I called Amazon today, and I'm returning them. They feel great in my hand and turn on/off super easy with the O ring removed, no superfluous tail switch. They'd be perfect except that the sticker on the packaging saying "Neutral White" is a total lie.

My favorite at the moment is much too hard to turn on/off but it's the best I have:
Olight I3e Eos Flashlight (Silver)

That Olight is too short, but I'm getting used to it. It's one brightness is claimed to be 120 lumens, and it is indeed brighter than the brightest setting on the iTP A3 EOS 96 Lumen Flashlight. It comes without a clip, but I took one from my iTP A3 EOS 96 Lumen Flashlights and it fit on the Olight, so I can use it at night on my bicycle. It is too hard to turn on/off, but I deal with that. With a fully charged Eneloop it stays bright for around 50 minutes. Only the silver one is speced at 120 lumens, the red, black, etc. at 90 lumens. If I find no better, that's the one I'm using EDC.

Suggestions?
1. AAA
2. M-L-H or even just H
3. Not too short or long
4. Actually neutral white
5. Twisty and real easy to turn On/Off with one hand
6. Pretty bright in high setting
7. Can clip to a baseball cap
 
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It is ideal for me in every respect except that the light is anything but neutral white.

different people use the term "neutral" very differently. Some call 5000k neutral, some call 4000k neutral. Most agree 6000k is cool
most "neutral white" leds are quite yellow, and are Low CRI

I avoid Thrunite AAA lights because they start on a less than 1 lumen low, even though they are offered in "neutral white" (but still low CRI)

Im a huge fan of the Copper Tool w Nichia. It is a true High CRI light, with a 4500k color temperature. I call it neutral (imo it is more pink than yellow) but you would do best to learn what CCT you prefer and avoid vague terms like neutral. Also the copper tool is almost twice as heavy as the aluminum Tool (no Nichia option).

As far as easy to operate twisties, imo the Olight threads are some of the easiest, but they only use Cool White LEDs. I caution you to avoid any twisties made of titanium, they have very gritty threads.

No matter what you choose, 4000k will be less cool than 6000k

If medium first is a priority, you can have Olight i3s in 6000k Cool White w low CRI, or Lumintop Tool Copper w Nichia in 4500k neutral white w High CRI. The Olight weighs half as much, and costs half as much.
 
Maratac AAA from Countycomm.com can be purchased in M-L-H. I own several of them... aluminum, brass, stainless. But they are cool white.
 
the Maratac AAA is a really nice AAA light... Cool white only though...
 
I avoid Thrunite AAA lights because they start on a less than 1 lumen low, even though they are offered in "neutral white" (but still low CRI).

Sub lumen modes for some are precisely the reason for the choice for some. Preserving night vision while still illuminating at the same time providing super extended runtimes.

Do you have a source for these details of low CRI? Do you have numbers?
 
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Most of the AAA lights in neutral white are of the 4000k variety which you have stated is too yellow (warm) for your tastes. Maybe you would prefer something closer to 5000k?

Honestly if the Tool works well for you, you can have the emitter swapped by a CPF member for not too much either (especially if you're in North America). I had my Maratac AAA's XP-G2 swapped for a Nichia 219B for <$50-$60.
 
fwiw The Original Poster, muse, has not logged in since he started this thread 2 weeks ago. Imo he is confused, asking for neutral white, but does not like how yellow it is. Likes the Tool, but insists on using it as a twisty.

I had my Maratac AAA's XP-G2 swapped for a Nichia 219B for <$50-$60.

As far as converting a Maratac to High CRI, a Lego I have found to do that (since I do not do my own mods), is to buy a Tool w Nichia, and swap the heads:
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The Maratac head also works on the Tool Body:
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for less than the price of the Tool (unless you find a sale), you can buy a copper Worm and put that head on the Maratac
wjkRwqoxkSVjH72D5ML3J2IipE152zu2stdIXunlS0Jf3NaPPXLoPPdI8mzRpziNjMTKqgyUIH01i33BtRp1HhO3zVR633C1aBNpCvcDoXMoexnpBZRCbmLM7egQfS4KibfTbwBu-46yZYWc4oqEuILuLAJVcY8wOSpdP5U3YP32UGrqwmEuxbuXnKpvZMoK3tZb8Fe41EN_4sEl9wclhrNsISUKz9dImYVWBKBF_vcawl4rW5Slj_7qTmGqSdFniQRMV3Ckn_-HCVesV7AerFQzDnMJ5uDm9X83f4zkr_XnQDHR5XggQENP0Cu4UrwJYU43khEbNkR0fK_tdKquwQzatvzNVx9-bRsBIB6tEXXNGuVj4XRHQAgjb4KbnEP639K7SotILTJUXINNi9CKqliZfigxd2PucS6t7yaVzAzQlQojHQc8JCjAbkjkbCmsqeu9WyTviI9183iGyN0ErsUFfnbCC6h7lDfeb98QIPUkpdv5pAkgiUPdfgZDhIk-s2zEbcLZXauPFeWTEep40z02WdHqfxCK_kOCK5pm7T9Z9wThmgmDZ4dv0D-2gArOAExOm2HhRgAC56LWXhUKMTXYsjbMDTKyn11kjmnEwcVsmXiV=w640-h718-no

however, the Maratac head will not light on the Worm body.
 
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I agree the 3 mode Copper Beta uses PWM

The 2 mode Betas use NoPWM, (Jason told me in person, when I visited his shop last year)

Pocket clips cost $30 extra

in 3 mode, the very similar Lumintop Copper Worm is NoPWM (but it has no QR and no pocket clip option)
 
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