M60 in a G2ZL?
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Bullzeyebill
Flashaholic
The Al head will provide some heatsinking, but heat will not move to the body quickly enough. I would use it no longer than 10 minutes at a time. Gene recommends the L and LL for Nitralon bodies.
Bill
Bill
Gunner12
Flashaholic
I would help buy unless you have your hands on the head for most of the time, the drop-in can still overheat with extended use.
Bullzeyebill
Flashaholic
Not sure, you would have to ask Gene about that, though probably not. Gene is depending on his heavy duty brass heatsink to reduce heat to the emitter.
Bill
MrGman
Flashlight Enthusiast
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- Feb 6, 2007
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You are really defeating the whole purpose of having the Malkoff device in a Nitrolon flashlight. Instead of just a 6P head, why not just put it in the 6P and take advantage of all the aluminum to spread out the heat. Putting the Malkoff inside an aluminum head stuck on a plastic body will only be a minor improvement. If its money, you can buy the entire Solarforce L2 host and put it in that, change the tailcap if you must have a Surefire switch.
The Malkoff has the solid brass head to provide a thermally conductive path to an aluminum head and conduct the heat away. If the head is stuck on plastic you haven't made much progress, just a little extra dissipation to the air from the head.
Kinda like putting a corvette engine in a chevy vega body, why?
The Malkoff has the solid brass head to provide a thermally conductive path to an aluminum head and conduct the heat away. If the head is stuck on plastic you haven't made much progress, just a little extra dissipation to the air from the head.
Kinda like putting a corvette engine in a chevy vega body, why?
adamlau
Flashlight Enthusiast
Because the Vega might feel more comfortable to drive in cold conditions.
jbosman1013
Enlightened
No thermal regulation in the M60 just constant current regulation. The brass heat sink is also filled with thermal epoxy to further help the thermal path, but that's just what it is, a path needing to lead somewhere and in a plastic body light there is not many places to go. I have my M60 in a SF C2 and in just a few minutes you are able to feel the heat increse on the outside of the light. The increse is very slow due to the well thought out construction of the module but I still think you risk dammage to the module if used in a G-series light.
I do use a M60LL in a G2L and have ran it for hours on end with no felt heat build up(the module was not even warm when removed). I would suggest not putting a M60 in a G-body light, it could end up as a paper weight with a angry blue face:scowl:.
I do use a M60LL in a G2L and have ran it for hours on end with no felt heat build up(the module was not even warm when removed). I would suggest not putting a M60 in a G-body light, it could end up as a paper weight with a angry blue face:scowl:.
FrankW438
Newly Enlightened
While the Malkoff website does not specifically address the G2L with metal head, it does say:
I have a SureFire G2Z, which is all Nitrolon, fitted with a Malkoff M60. This is a great setup for me, BTW. I personally do not use this light for more than a few moments at a time, but I can imagine some scenarios where I might need to run it longer. I the situation arose, I would probably switch to another light if available.
If this is a real concern for you, sell the G2ZL and buy a Z2 instead. Or you could put an M60L in your G2ZL instead. That would give you extended runtime with no worry about overheating, and still have plenty of light (140 lumens for 4.5 hours, I think).
You just need to decide how long you may run the light at one time. The M60 in a G2z works just fine for me in my situation.
-- Frank
I have a SureFire G2Z, which is all Nitrolon, fitted with a Malkoff M60. This is a great setup for me, BTW. I personally do not use this light for more than a few moments at a time, but I can imagine some scenarios where I might need to run it longer. I the situation arose, I would probably switch to another light if available.
If this is a real concern for you, sell the G2ZL and buy a Z2 instead. Or you could put an M60L in your G2ZL instead. That would give you extended runtime with no worry about overheating, and still have plenty of light (140 lumens for 4.5 hours, I think).
You just need to decide how long you may run the light at one time. The M60 in a G2z works just fine for me in my situation.
-- Frank
Thanks for all the input, I have all the bodies mentioned above 
and I might have to run my light for more than 15 minutes even though I always have a second on me at work but this is usually a L4 for close range flood stuff.
I really like the nitrolon body of the G2Z but am nowhere near as keen on the G2 body.
I will probably just stick with it in my C2 but one of the things I am trying to get round is the fact that the bezel only needs to be unscrewed a fraction and the light stops working. I had this happen while in a V70 holster on my duty belt the other day and I dont know how?
and I might have to run my light for more than 15 minutes even though I always have a second on me at work but this is usually a L4 for close range flood stuff.I really like the nitrolon body of the G2Z but am nowhere near as keen on the G2 body.
I will probably just stick with it in my C2 but one of the things I am trying to get round is the fact that the bezel only needs to be unscrewed a fraction and the light stops working. I had this happen while in a V70 holster on my duty belt the other day and I dont know how?
pbs357
Enlightened
I've read a few posts of people who have issues with the M60 in their C2's if they don't use the copper ring. I have to use a ring when I put my M60 into an aftermarket strike bezel, but it works.
As for the G2Z, keep it! I prefer it's feel and weight compared to the Z2, so I carry the G2Z with M60 in the winter months. Of course, as others have mentioned using the M60 in a Z2 is much better for regulating heat.
As for the G2Z, keep it! I prefer it's feel and weight compared to the Z2, so I carry the G2Z with M60 in the winter months. Of course, as others have mentioned using the M60 in a Z2 is much better for regulating heat.
Bullzeyebill
Flashaholic
Thanks for all the input, I have all the bodies mentioned above
I really like the nitrolon body of the G2Z but am nowhere near as keen on the G2 body.
I will probably just stick with it in my C2 but one of the things I am trying to get round is the fact that the bezel only needs to be unscrewed a fraction and the light stops working. I had this happen while in a V70 holster on my duty belt the other day and I dont know how?
You probably inadvertently rotated the body while it was still in the V70 when you were removing it. You use tail down carry? Check your O rings.
Bill
Yoda4561
Flashlight Enthusiast
A healthy dose of medium loctite on the threads will go a long way to preventing any unintentional unscrewing of the bezel. I haven't started doing it yet but may since experiencing this last week with my M60+C2. I had just changed the batteries and must have bumped the bezel a hair in the process, resulting in the light cutting out when I set it down, took me a couple minutes to figure out what had happened, not a good thing in an emergency.
I will try putting another o ring on the head threads and/or one of the copper washers.
I swapped over to my Z2 but that also went off with only a fraction of a turn of the bezel.
I carry bezel up in the V70 and the bezel rubs quite a bit on my stab vest when I sit down or get in and out of a vehicle.
I swapped over to my Z2 but that also went off with only a fraction of a turn of the bezel.
I carry bezel up in the V70 and the bezel rubs quite a bit on my stab vest when I sit down or get in and out of a vehicle.
