M60 leaves a gap - fixed

copperfox

Enlightened
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I have a Malkoff M60 in a 6pd body, but there is a gap, as seen here:


m60_gap.jpg



I was thinking about trying to grind a slight bevel on the lower edge of the
module where it contacts the body. Anybody had this problem before? Will creating a bevel allow it to sit lower? If not, how should I fix it?
 
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Re: M60 leaves a gap - help

Now you're just being picky....:rolleyes::ironic:

I doubt it's going to be a problem
 
Re: M60 leaves a gap - help

With the head screwed down there is a ~0.8mm gap. This is what I am trying to get rid of.
 
Re: M60 leaves a gap - help

I just put an o ring in mine looks/works fine
 
Re: M60 leaves a gap - help

I don't want to hide the gap, I want to fix the gap.
 
Re: M60 leaves a gap - help

The gap is a problem because it was not intended with Surefire's design.

Anyway, I went ahead and bit the bullet by grinding a chamfer onto the bottom lip of the m60 (the lower edge right where it meets the hardened black thermal compound). I used a flat sharpening stone, rotating the module with my hand with each pass. After a couple minutes of grinding, test fitting, and more grinding, I got the head of the light to fully thread onto the body leaving no gap. Success!


Pic:

m60_gap_fixed.jpg
 
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Re: M60 leaves a gap - help

As I understand it from Gene Malkoff, the module is actually supposed to have that gap; it's designed to be there. At first glance, it does look like an imperfection in design/machining, but from what I've seen Gene say on the matter, it basically accommodates the variations in the SureFire bodies over the years. Basically, the module is designed to have as much surface contact as possible with the body of the flashlight, so as to conduct as much heat as possible away from the emitter, thus prolonging its life. By having that gap there, you're essentially guaranteeing that the body of the module is making contact with the body of the flashlight, which is what you want for heat dissipation. If that gap weren't there, it could be because the machining on the module PERFECTLY matches the body of your flashlight, or it could be because only that top rim of the module is making contact with the body of the flashlight, which makes for much poorer heat dissipation.

On my C2 with the M60, I've just decided to use it as is, and I no longer notice that there's a gap. I do wonder whether the gap makes any real world difference in water resistance, but I kind of doubt it. So, you could go to the trouble of machining the module to try and eliminate the gap (at the risk of damaging the module, or losing that full surface contact for heat dissipation), or you could fill it with an O-ring, or you could just leave it as is. To my knowledge, it hasn't been a functional problem for anyone, and the M60 series modules work great, so I wouldn't worry about it.

[Edit: Looks like you fixed the gap before I submitted my post. Not really anything to add, I guess. The only issue would be if it's now not making enough contact in the body for proper heat dissipation, but from the looks of it, I doubt you took off enough metal for that to be a problem.]
 
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Re: M60 leaves a gap - help

I understand that heat transfer is important, but left stock the M60 (my sample, anyway) leaves an air gap between itself and the body. The modification I did really didn't change this, it simply allows the module to sit eight tenths of a millimeter lower. If anything, it brings the module closer in contact with the inside of the body, improving heat transfer.

I understand that the Malkoff drop in isn't a Surefire product, but I want it to fit inside the 6P as though it was one. I think this is a reasonable expectation given the price. What baffles me are the people who would rather just ignore the problem or deny that a problem even exists. Gene's product, however high quality, is not 100% perfect. Blasphemy, I know. :ironic:
 
Re: M60 leaves a gap - help

I understand that heat transfer is important, but left stock the M60 (my sample, anyway) leaves an air gap between itself and the body. The modification I did really didn't change this, it simply allows the module to sit eight tenths of a millimeter lower. If anything, it brings the module closer in contact with the inside of the body, improving heat transfer.

I understand that the Malkoff drop in isn't a Surefire product, but I want it to fit inside the 6P as though it was one. I think this is a reasonable expectation given the price. What baffles me are the people who would rather just ignore the problem or deny that a problem even exists. Gene's product, however high quality, is not 100% perfect. Blasphemy, I know. :ironic:

Yeah, no light will be perfect, not SureFires, not Malkoffs. But then, if there were perfect lights out there, we likely wouldn't have this forum, now would we?

Out of curiosity, and on a fairly unrelated note, does your M60 have any dim spot at the center of its hotspot? That's about the only thing keeping mine from earning it an effective "perfection" title in my own mind.
 
YO try putting the palm of your hand on the optic and try to turn it a bit in the drop in. One of my Malkoffs spot got a tad "cleaner" when I did this. Must of ever so slightly shifted the focal point?

Hey it's worth a try. :tinfoil:
 
The dim center is a fact of life with Cree/Khatod undiffused narow optics.

So far I am 9 out of 11 with dim centers in the Cree 8˚.
 
I got mine and gap is not an issue... Though I have just ordered a GITD O-Ring and will be putting that at the base of the bezel... Will try to post some photos of the family =D :twothumbs
 
I think removing the gap is ok, and for sure the lip of the body will be making better contact with the with the top of the drop in, and the the body will come flush with the the head, allowing better heat transfer. I do tend to be over cautious, and will often wrap my module with aluminum foil for better contact with the body.

Bill
 
I have used a couple layers of foil to make tighter contact of the Malkoff modules to the inside of the cavity on my Solarforces as well the SF. Also the top "lip" of the Surefire is anodized and doesn't carry any electrical current. I sanded mine down with a electrical "mouse" type orbital sander so it would make electrical contact as well as providing some heat transfer. The upper edge along the inside is also anodized so I got in there and sanded it off somewhat as well. I find this is necessary for optimum contact of the Malkoffs in either the Surefire or Solarforce heads. The D26 type pills from Solarforce or other Chinese companies pretty much work best with the springs, so I don't bother with units I put those in.
 
Re: M60 leaves a gap - help

The gap is a problem because it was not intended with Surefire's design.

Anyway, I went ahead and bit the bullet by grinding a chamfer onto the bottom lip of the m60 (the lower edge right where it meets the hardened black thermal compound). I used a flat sharpening stone, rotating the module with my hand with each pass. After a couple minutes of grinding, test fitting, and more grinding, I got the head of the light to fully thread onto the body leaving no gap. Success!

This is awesome. St00pid question time, but what kind of "flat sharpening stone" did you use -- and where did you get it? Are there different grades of it, like with sandpaper?

Is it the kind to sharpen knifes?

It kind of bothers me that the original module fits perfectly, while M60 leaves this 1mm gap. I thought it was just my module or 9P, but apparently more widespread.

Gene, please take note and refine the already awesome product.

The original Surefire 9P:

9P_P90.jpg


Surefire 9P with M60 module installed:

9P_M60.jpg
 
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