Mag 3d led replacement question

sp5it

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Poland
Hello.
First of it all I want to say hello all CPF members and readers.
I spent hours on reading this forums and:
I got MAG 3D, that I want to mod with 3W Luxeon.
It will be running on 3 D size 1.2V rechargables.
Which way should I go?
Buy 3W Diamond Lambertian, or mod it with hotlips D, 3W (wchich one?) Luxeon, original reflector.
In the future I want to put 3-3W Luxeons with 20mm reflectors anyway.
Thanks for reading, and any suggestions for newbie /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Mike
 

Timson

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Mike,

Forget the 'Diamond' option.

For a much better performance get a hotlips D or an 'O' sink and epoxy (arctic alumina) a LuxIII (HD)onto the raised pillar on the heatsink. Get an emitter with a Vf of K - Something like a TWOK or TXOK.
Take power directly from the switch - no resistance

Cut the cam completely off the back of the original relector, reassemble.

With a Vf of K - you should be fine - It'll pull about 1100 - 1200ma on fresh cells but will quickly settle to a lower level. The heatsinks do a great job of dissipating any generated heat.
Don't use Alkalines with a Vf of K - They'll kill the emitter (more than likely). If using alkalines get an emitter with a Vf of L.

Fantastic light - great thrower. I have one of these and I love it - except mine is a 2xD mag that I've fitted with 3xC cells.

Tim
 

daloosh

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Welcome to CPF sp5it, and why dontcha stay awhile!!

The Diamond dropin is the fastest easiest way to go, which is my speed, but as you go down this path, ya might as well start modding now! 'Specially since you want to go further anyhow, this hotlips mod is a great place to start.

But as to the Diamond, it's brite and easy, and on sale now for $35, plus shipping, and they have sold it for $30 or less in the past, too.

welcome again, and hide your wallet!
daloosh
 

sp5it

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Oh, I`m here quiet long time /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif daloosh.
Thanks for replays guys.
I thought a little bit about mod I want to perform. I decided, that I will go step further, and I`m gonna build quad. Reasons? All parts I have to order in the States, and deliver to Poland. Money I will spend for 1 Luxeon mod better I will put for something stronger.
So.. I got more questions /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif.
CAn I use the same bin as for 1 diode mod?
I will need driver, I know, but what board I can use to drive 4 3W diodes from 3xD accu, and as replacement 3 times 3AA rechargable accu.
What option will be better? I mean longer operating time.
3x1.2V D - leds paralel or 9x1.2V AA - leds 2 in series paralel?
Is there driver board allow me to do that, or I will need do build custom one?
I need strong, sharp light, narrow spot, long range.
Should I buy IMS SO20XA, or LXHL-NX05-5deg, or LXHL-NX05-25deg?
LS holder and radiator I can make by myself.
Thanks for help, regards, Mike
 

Timson

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Mike,

Quite ambitious for a first mod.
I haven't done one of these either but if I were to have a go I'd do it something like this. -

Using matching LuxIII's (Lowest VF available) - TWOH, TWOJ.
3 x Good quality NiMh D cells (11000Mah)
A pair of boost converters (Something like Fatman)- Each one driving a pair of lux's wires in series. (Set for around 700ma)
4 x IMS20 reflectors (Best for throw - narrow beam)

This should give you about 3.5hrs runtime
The big issue with 4 LuxIII's will be the heat build up - Pay careful attention to good heatsinking. You could always set the converters to run less current - or even install a pot to vary the output.


You could do a similar thing with 9xAA cells - But bear in mind that you'd need to use STEP DOWN converters and even using 2500mah cells - the runtime would not be as good as the D cell configuration - plus it would be more expensive to do.

Do a search on 'Quad' for extra pointers.

Good luck - Let us know how you go on.

Tim
 

sp5it

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Poland
Thanks for reply Timson. Yep, it is ambitious, but I don`t want to waste time and money :0 I would like to bulid something what will give me satisfaction, and pleasure of use.
I spent days reading this forum, that`s pity, that I can not buy all needed parts closer to my country.
I`m amateur radio freak, but now after spending long time on this forum I feel kinda flashaholic /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Hardest thing will be making radiator/holder for LS. but I can manage it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Maybe Modamag will give me a hand /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Thank you for advices, if anyone can add something more about this mod, what to pay attention etc, any comments, help is welcome /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

VWTim

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I'm looking at doing a Hotlips config 3 "drop in" into my 3D maglight as my first mod, running DD to Alkalines. Does anyone have any beamshots of this setup compared to stock? Also would one of the aluminum reflectors in the group buy forum be a good idea with the Luxeon?
thanks in advance everyone,
 

Timson

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Leeds - England



VWTim...

Don't have a stock 3D
This is a stock 2D on brand new Alkalines versus a DD 3D TWOL (L - Vf best for DD on 3 Alk's) - both set on tightest focus, approx 8 feet from wall.

For a Luxeon mod of this nature - no advantage whatsoever to using an alu reflector. UCL lens would be worthwile though.

This shot makes the TWOL look more of a blue colour than actual. I don't know how to adjust the camera to compensate - but at least with it being a side by side shot it gives a good representation of what to expect with your mod. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Tim
 

Jazz

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Apr 19, 2005
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Sacramento, CA
And does anyone have a comparison pic of the Mag85 mod? I want to mod something. Stock is just not good enough for me.

And how does this compare to a stock MagCharger? Has anyone done a mod to one of these?

Thanks,
James
 

sp5it

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Messages
295
Location
Poland
[ QUOTE ]
Timson said:
For a much better performance get a hotlips D or an 'O' sink and epoxy (arctic alumina) a LuxIII (HD)onto the raised pillar on the heatsink. Get an emitter with a Vf of K - Something like a TWOK or TXOK.
Take power directly from the switch - no resistance

Cut the cam completely off the back of the original relector, reassemble.

With a Vf of K - you should be fine - It'll pull about 1100 - 1200ma on fresh cells but will quickly settle to a lower level. The heatsinks do a great job of dissipating any generated heat.
Don't use Alkalines with a Vf of K - They'll kill the emitter (more than likely). If using alkalines get an emitter with a Vf of L.

Fantastic light - great thrower. I have one of these and I love it - except mine is a 2xD mag that I've fitted with 3xC cells.

[/ QUOTE ]

Tell me Tim how it compares to stock bulb? I mean brightness, range, spot.
What if I will use step up conerter to keep oltage and current at the same level all the time? I will also protect LS from burning.
Mike
 

sp5it

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And another question. I decided, that osink with 3W led for the beginning will be good /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Maybe I should use Fatman driver with 3x1.2V accu to keep voltage and current constatnt?
Thanks for replys,
Mike
 

Timson

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sp5it,

It throws better than stock and the hot spot is larger.
The beam is pure white rather than yellow and also has a nice uniform round shape with no blotches, rings or dark spots.
Much more pleasing to my eye - looks very hi tech with its HID colour temperature beam.

The thing with 3 cell mods is that they don't lend themselves well to regulation as the voltage of 3 rechargeable cells is just about right on the money for most LuxIII's (Generally between 3.2 - 3.9v.

A boost circuit (eg Fatman) needs the input voltage to be of a significant amount less than the output voltage to work.
3 cells are usually above this threshold for most circuits that are available.

Conversely a limiter circuit needs the input to be significantly more than the output. 3 cells are usually not a high enough voltage to meet these parameters.

So if sticking with 3 cells - Direct drive is the way to go. If the current to the Lux is more than you're comfortable with you can add a small resistor to tame it a bit.

If you really want regulation you can always try putting in different batteries....
eg - use 5 x 1/2 D cells which will fit in perfectly in your 3D. Then you've got the voltage to use something like a downboy circuit to regulate the current.
This would work great, but obviously involves buying new cells, a suitable charger and of course the circuit.


Hope that made sense,

Tim /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

Icarus

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Nov 1, 2003
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3,492
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Belgium
[ QUOTE ]
sp5it said:
And another question. I decided, that osink with 3W led for the beginning will be good /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Maybe I should use Fatman driver with 3x1.2V accu to keep voltage and current constant?
Thanks for replys,
Mike

[/ QUOTE ]

If you want a regulated Mag3D using 3xNiMH batteries you should use the Wizard2 driver from 'the shoppe'. It's a buck/boost driver. By far the best driver for this setup! Using high capacity batteries you will get very good runtimes! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Another recommended setup could be 5x1/2D NiMH batteries and a DB917/1000 converter.
Also available at 'the shoppe'. Great runtimes too! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleye11.gif
 

sp5it

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Thanks for help, it seems to be clear now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Sorry to bother you with all my newbie questions, but there is another one /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
What iw I will build PWM for this setup?
I made a few tests before with 5mm leds and PWM, and results were very good, more brightness, less heat, less power consumption. Did you heard that somebody tried it before with 3W LS ?
Where in USA I can buy best bin led for my mag? A firnd of mine will buy it for me and ship to Poland, but I have to show him where /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Thank you, Mike
 

andrewwynn

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note about fatman... I've used it with LiON battery to a single lux before and the only problem with a 'J' bin emitter is that i can only dial down to 600mA minimum.. there is a series diode so you have 1/2V drop or so, so you can actually have basically the same Vbat as Vf and it will work great... there is even a hack with fatman to get it to shut down before munchiing your rechargeable batteries.. it's an 'undocumented feature'... george doesn't 100% approve but i've not had any problems so far.. it has a shutdown pin that will shut down the driver when the voltage gets to about .6V so if you put a voltage (resistance) bridge on that pin from Vbat to ground with the appropriate values (i usually start with a potentiometer)... you can get fatman to shutdown when the voltage gets low.. the 'bonus'.. it actually slowly dims when the battery gets low so you have plenty of warning that it's coming vs a true low volt cutout that just shuts it off 100% when the bat dies, but instantly blinks off.

3 NiMH cells will get you about the same as 1 LiON.. 3.6 nominal under load and that should work very well with a J bin emitter as long as you don't need to dim lower than 600mA.... and i have a feeling that with a K you'll get full dimming capability.

in any event.. i recommend using a driver especially if you can work in a multi-level switch or potentiometer. (i would aim for 2-3 switches that maybe 'gear into' the lobe inside the head... they are much more reliable than pots.. unless you can work a digital pot into the solution).

-awr
 

andrewwynn

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ps: a good source for luxeons is either the sandwich shoppe (i forget the site but there is a forum on cpf).. or http://photonfanatic.com

If you want to have a nice regulated 3Cell light and use NiMH.. fatman driver will run 3 emitters... there will be a limit on the max input of about 2.3A so you have to do the math and see what that will get you for output.. in one of my test cases i got 700mA into 3 J bin emitters from a single LiON... so you may get something between 700 and 900 mA.. the new fatman can input more current than the one i have so you may be able to achieve a little higher output.

Good luck with the mod, let us know how it goes.

-awr
 

sp5it

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Poland
[ QUOTE ]
Icarus said:
[ QUOTE ]
sp5it said:
And another question. I decided, that osink with 3W led for the beginning will be good /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Maybe I should use Fatman driver with 3x1.2V accu to keep voltage and current constant?
Thanks for replys,
Mike

[/ QUOTE ]

If you want a regulated Mag3D using 3xNiMH batteries you should use the Wizard2 driver from 'the shoppe'. It's a buck/boost driver. By far the best driver for this setup! Using high capacity batteries you will get very good runtimes!

[/ QUOTE ]
Wizard2 will bee good I think. Tell me, how it fits with o-sink, or hotlips?
Mike
 
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