Mag2C SSC P7 3x 4/5 SubC Mod

[darkzero]

Re: Mag2C SSC P7 3x4/5C Mod

What are your thoughts on fitting 4 of those 4/5C in a 2C Mag? I know if would have to sit down in the tail cap some, and since I'm not at home, I can't measure the diameter of the tailcap. But the battery diamter is 3mm smaller than a C. I could always bore out the tailcap slightly. From the pics the length looks like it might work.

I've also got a tail cap extender that I could throw on there to see if that would help along with modifying the switch some for a little more room, I just really want to stick to a 2C.

Good idea but 4 won't fit. As I posted above, 3 4/5Cs is pretty much the same length as 2 Cs. With 4 in a Mag2C they'll be longer than with the tailcap on. With an AW extender it might work, I don't have one on hand so I can't measure. The tailcap would definitely need to be bored out though since the 4/5C cells won't fit in it.


Here's a pic with 4 4/5Cs in a Mag2C:

Good luck with the build, please post if you get it figured out.

 

[Drewfus2101]

Re: Mag2C SSC P7 3x4/5C Mod

Thanks for the info and a great pic. I might have time to take some measurements of a 2C tonight. Looks like the tailcap diameter will be the part that kills this idea. With the Mag C ring and modifying the bottom of the switch I might get a little length, but there is only so much that can be done about the diameter of the tailcap.

If I have to use a 3C I will. Although I'm seriously thinking about direct drive just to keep it small and simple.

 

[darkzero]

Re: Mag2C SSC P7 3x4/5C Mod

Thanks for the info and a great pic. I might have time to take some measurements of a 2C tonight. Looks like the tailcap diameter will be the part that kills this idea. With the Mag C ring and modifying the bottom of the switch I might get a little length, but there is only so much that can be done about the diameter of the tailcap.

If I have to use a 3C I will. Although I'm seriously thinking about direct drive just to keep it small and simple.

There's definitely room for the cell to fit inside the tailcap if bored out. If you bore out the tailcap, mount a shorter spring inside the tailcap, I think you'll be able to do it will an extender.

 

[TexLite]

Re: Mag2C SSC P7 3x4/5C Mod

There's definitely room for the cell to fit inside the tailcap if bored out. If you bore out the tailcap, mount a shorter spring inside the tailcap, I think you'll be able to do it will an extender.

The extender is a great idea.Four 4/5C cells in a 2C would make a great host,with quite a few drive options.

Thanks,
Michael

 

[FredM]

Re: Mag2C SSC P7 3x4/5C Mod

No need for a resistor or driver?

 

[darkzero]

Re: Mag2C SSC P7 3x4/5C Mod

No need for a resistor or driver?

Not with with 3 NiMhs. With 3 4500mah C size NiMhs I get around 3A. The cells that were used with this one were 2000mah 4/5 SubCs. I suspected absolutely no more than 2.4 - 2.5A but surprisingly with these cells I got 2.7A max draw. Either these were some good cells or the vf of the emitter was real low or both? The cells were provided by the owner.

 

[raz]

Re: Mag2C SSC P7 3x 4/5 SubC Mod - decrease in output?

Hi All - bonafide newbie here fascinated with this forum.

Recently finished my first mod to a Mag 2C using Darkzero's great instructions. I was absolutely amazed at initial light output - eye-watering to say the least!

Following several demos for friends (no more than 10 mins of on time), I was again testing light - same dazzling brilliance initially, then followed by a discernable blue tint to the light for several seconds, and then light output dropped off dramatically and remains so. Tried another set of Ni MH batts (charge state unk) and it made no difference.

Do you think this is a symptom of battery charge wearing down, failure of P7 emitter, or a problem with my mod techniques? All comments appreciated.

 

[kz1000s1]

Re: Mag2C SSC P7 3x 4/5 SubC Mod - decrease in output?

Was the "dazzling brilliance initially" the same brightness that it had originally, or was it brighter? The blue tint, what we refer to as an "angry blue" means the led is being run too hard.
How did you attach the led to the heatsink? The best way is with Arctic Alumina epoxy. Is the led still attached?

 

[raz]

Thanx for your rapid reply. Yes, brightnesss was consistent from first test until the blue tint episode (with dramatic decrease following). I did use Arctic Alumina epoxy to attach led. Do not have light with me as I post this, so currently unable to check led attachment security but will follow-up on that ASAP.

Does the fact that I did have an "angry blue" episode mean that the P-7 has now been damaged/defraded?

 

[kz1000s1]

If you shut it off right away when it turned blue it could be ok.
The "dramatic decrease following" doesn't sound good though.

 

[nein166]

raz sounds like your epoxy let go, a discharged battery won't make it blue only dimmer white. If you remove the led and try to set it again with the Arctic Alumina Epoxy give it a full hour to set up under slight pressure. Don't lay the epoxy on too thick more isn't better, just enough to squeeze out all around when pressed down. A pipe around the silicon dome pressing down on the black body of the P7 should do it. Even the wires tension can lift the led from the heatsink while the epoxy is hardening. Also your heatsink should have a tight fit to the body. If its loose some thermal compound or aluminum foil can close a gap.

 

[raz]

Many thanx to both kz1000s1 and nein166 for the timely advice.

I just checked security of led to heat sink and cannot move led around with finger pressure. On initial install of led to heatsink I did let epoxy dry overnight, but used no pressure. I elected to solder wires to led after attaching led to heatsink so don't think wire tension would have lifted led, but I'll chk it out.

If I opt to reset led, any advice on removing old epoxy from heatsink with minimum damage to anodize coating?

Regarding heat sink fit in body, it was definitely loose. I did find that surprising as I'd read about other mods where the heatsink took some force to press into body - should have litened to my instincts there, I guess. I did use thermal compund (though sparingly) on heatsink/tube interface but I like the idea of aluminum foil + thermal compound better to ensure tight fit.

Believe the next steps will be to ensure or repair led/heatsink attachment, tighten up heatsink fit into body and give it another whirl with freshly charged nimh batts. Thanx again for the advice folks - what a great forum!

 

[nein166]

Well then sounds like you did everything correct, I hope it was a battery issue and not permanent damage to the P7, I think I'll be making one of these after I finish my MC-E 2C.

 

[supasizefries]

Just picked up a Mag 2C tonight to attempt this mod. I love the form factor of the Mag 2C! I'm planning on using a Britelumens C heatsink, unless the hot lips heat sink mod is easy. Anyway, slightly off topic, sorry, but anyone know what charger is used to charge the 4/5 sub C cells? I have a Lacrosse BC-900 and a Smartcharger NiMH pack charger but it says only to be used with 9.6 V and above.

 

[lolzertank]

Re: Mag2C SSC P7 3x4/5C Mod

1x 18650 actually has more capacity than 3x 4/5 SubCs.

Yeah i bought a 52mm for Penta Cree Q2 Mag and 35mm for my WF-400 the lens(windows) is really clear, i kind of surprised with result my self. Compared to normal glass the KD lens looks like it isnt even there.

Oh, and does anyone know how the KD glass does against UCL glass?