Mag35W for dummies

Cutler

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Jun 4, 2005
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Richmond, VA
I have been lurking for a while and decided to build my first "hotwire mod". I chose the Mag35W because it seemed to be a nice balance between performance and stability. I approached the project completely green but with extensive experience in metal fabrication.

The biggest trouble was that all descriptions of the various tricks and techniques assumed a higher level of experience with flashlight modifications than I possessed. My thanks to those of you who were patient with my noob questions in the PMs

As I would like to contribute to the forums, I will attempt to explain this modification so Noob Lurkers, that like myself are considering attempting a modification, can understand.

First, you need parts. It is really good that you can't get all of this in one place because then you don't see just how much this thing costs. The vendors listed are not necessarily the best or cheapest, but rather where I was able to locate the parts, that's all. The parts are the best I know of.

Got the Mag 2D body here; http://www.dlsenterprises.citymax.com/page/page/1718926.htm They do cheap custom engraving. I have "Mag35W" in old english engraved on the head.

Got the lens here; http://www.flashlightlens.com/products.htm get the 52.1 borofloat or UCL. I had considered getting 2 to account for breakage, but that was not necessary. These are tough and eerily transparent. Don't get fingerprints on it.

Got the bulbs here; http://www.servicelighting.com/catalog_product.cfm?prod=AL04424 These folks are in no hurry. This is the long lead item. I haven't looked anywhere else… I got 3 but I'm still on the first one some 6 hours? later. Don't get fingerprints on these either.

Got the 6-aa/2D series adapter here; https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/96929 You should bridge the little springs with copper. Someone posted that the little springs can go incandescent. I believe it. I used desoldering wick. It's pretty obvious where to solder, a search of the forums will bring up some links.

Got the MOP reflector here; http://www.light-edge.com/products.asp?section=Mag Reflectors&cat=42 You will need to ream out the opening to accept the bulb. I used a 7/16 drill and got it a little big. I would get my hands on a taper reamer and hand fit it. You might try the stippled or HOP, mine has a few artifacts in the beam, compared to my nuwai and SFs. I can live with them. No fingerprints here either.

Got the fixture here; https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/104816 Follow the assembly instructions link and do it the "simple" way, using the retaining spring to hold the lamp in place. The stock switch comes out by sticking a long allen wrench down through the button and loosening a set screw. Be gentle with the spring clip, I had to look for 30 minutes to find mine after it got away. I cut down the stock fixture with a wire saw and a sharp knife. This is the only spot where you need some soldering skill. Just be aggressive and work fast and it comes out fine. Use a little finesse and trial and error to set the length so that the reflector just clears the fixture when all the way tightened. I like this fixture replacement because these lights get (literally) smoking hot. Using the stock fixture with potted bulbs is asking for a meltdown.

I got the batteries here; http://cheapbatterypacks.com/main.asp?sid=512304&pgid=loosecells get the cbp 1650s. Don't be tempted to get a bigger battery, you need these for the discharge rate. You will need a smart charger, one that works on voltage/current and not a timer. I got one that charges individual cells because I knew I was going to do some mods that involved different sized cells. http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2107 You will also need some 3/16 x 1/16 and 3/16 x 1/32 magnets for the charger and adapter to make a button on the positive end. http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=10 get a bunch, they tend to fly away and get lost. I may attempt an on-board charge mod with a pack charger. Later.

Hose down all contacts with contact cleaner and contact protector. Available at you local electronics store.

Once you get it all assembled, you will be surprised at how much light comes out of it. I was most surprised by the color. This is the whitest incandescent I have, including my SFs. I carry this on my pre-dawn walk and have had cars flash their high beams at me! The modified light seems to weigh less than the stock 2D light.

After I got mine working, I got in touch with Modamag and asked him to build a 4D extension so that I could run my switch/head configuration with 6 10000mah D cells. These run the light significantly brighter and for 2+ hours on a charge. But the light weighs over 4 pounds. Good for the truck.

This is now an exceptional light. High on the "wow, that's bright" AND on functionality.

Good luck! Let me know if I missed anything.
 
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Delvance

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Nov 26, 2005
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Sydney, Australia
:goodjob: nice writeup thanks! I was actually thinking about building a [email protected] 35w for awhile, but then thought i'd spend my money on a higher powered one as i knew that was the only place i'd end up at anyways heh. I've seen some beamshots of a [email protected], the -8 indicating 8 cells direct driving the lamp, calculated output lumens was 1500 or so iirc. might've been a different lamp though. Congrats on your new light !
 

Flakey

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Dec 4, 2005
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hey man gratz on the mag35, i have built a mag35 using 8nimh C cells, with only 6aa cells you are really wasting that bulb, in my opinon. 2 4aa cell adapters would work much better im sure. and yes, the lamp is more than able to take the overdrive because it is a 2000 hour lamp.
 

andrewwynn

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Apr 28, 2004
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Racine, WI USA
what a great cook-book writetup!

So you ended up with 6D solution? 4D with extension? also a 2D with 6xNIMH?

I was the one that invented the braided wire jumper on the bottom of the modamag holders for high-current applications.. the sprngs are maybe good for 2-3A.. i just melted a couple springs today trying to do a demo of what happens when you short a high-power battery pack with 30ga wire.. well with a solid pack it melts the wire... with spring-loaded pack it melts the springs.. and two cells fell out of the pack.

click here to see a far better solution for the battery pack.. removes the springs completely.

Flakey is right about the output capability of that lamp if you are using the West. 04424 lamp.. he pushed it to 97% overdrive without blowing it! just amazing.

with a 6AA solution 'mag35' i personally would run the osram 35W 6V lamp with a hotdriver.. it's 847 vs 645 Lumen output compared to the W lamp.. and also very very white.. very much the same output of a maxed out mag85.

on the osram 35W.. it will fit inside the tight carley reflectors.. i do recommend a light stipple to make the beam nicer.

at 644L, the only 2D hosted light that beats it is the M85 or using the osram lamp.. even 8cell 1274 won't put out more light.. and with driving the lamp as light as you are it will last forever.

If you want to bump up the output... get the 8-AA->2D holder, fix it at least the way you did.. and shoe-horn in a couple more cells.. with the voltage sag the lamp won't mind.. flakey got it running with 8x C size!.. you will be absolutely STUNNED by how much more light will come out, and how much whiter the light is!

YMMV on stuffing 8 cells into an unbored light.. i've been able to get away with it the last few times i've tried.. have to let the cells cool after charging (since they grow from thermal expansion).. and be veerry careful putting them in lest you tear a wrapper.. but manoman flakey is right about how much more output it has.. 1300L is not out of the question going up from the 644 i would estimate you're getting right now on the 2D model.. it will be a LOT more light than the 6D light is doing.

-awr
 

andrewwynn

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nottachance in my opinion.... the 35W lamp takes over 6A.. if you try a lessor bat than the 1650s... you will find you are just losing voltage inside the cell and generating heat.. you won't get even the 1450 or so MA you'll get out of the CBP 1650s.

-awr
 

missionaryman

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Oct 20, 2005
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Sydney, Australia
excelent thread cutler - just on the topic, I would like to make one using sub C's just because they're really good and you can get up to 4200mah. How many could be crammed into a 6C with the spring removed?
 

Cutler

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Jun 4, 2005
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Richmond, VA
Hmmmm, 8 cells? 8 D cells? 1500 lumens for 2+ hours? I'll need another 2D extension...and I'll have to hire a light bearer. But I'll be able to cook my lunch. This forum is bad for me...I remember when my Nuwai 3 watt was enough for my morning walk.

For a carry light, I really like the 2D length as it fits in my hoody pocket. I might try the 8AA solution. I just figured that was losing some utility for brightness. Don't you get excessive shock sensitivity in the bulb?

I have access to a light meter used to measure room lighting needs. This test indicated that I was getting 9000 foot candles from the flashlight. The test results drew a crowd of lighting engineers. The light iluminates a room better than normal residential lighting.

As far as using the C cells, I agree with another forumite that said they work best in C Mags.With the excellant machining done by Modamag, there's no reason you couldn't have a 12 cell light
 

SilverFox

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Bellingham WA
Hello NotEnoughLight,

NotEnoughLight said:
Can the sanyo AA take the current this bulb needs?

At 10 amps current draw, the Sanyo Eneloop cells hold up quite well to the CBP 1650 cells, but the CBP cells have a slight edge in voltage during the first part of the discharge.

The higher capacity cells all fall short when compared to the CBP cells.

Tom
 

NotEnoughLight

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Is it significant when it comes down to the brightness of the light? I mean would we be able to see > say 30% difference? difference when the two types of cells are used?
 

andrewwynn

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Racine, WI USA
nothing we use pulls more than 10A.. i guess i need to check out some of those eneloops ;).. slight edge in voltage is what blows bulbs.. the eneloops sound even better.

-awr
 

PlayboyJoeShmoe

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Sep 4, 2002
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Shepherd, TX (where dat?)
:sigh:

I'm just a KIU socket away from some killer stuff.

M*g85 is pretty kick a$$, but I played around with 20W and 50W MR16 and GY bulbs and saw some BRIGHT light! I must tell you that the Carley 912 Bi-Pin adapters don't like 2+ Amps.

But alas, :broke: and unable to use Paypal makes it all moot.

:sigh:

Nice write up!!!!
 

iamerror

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Jan 2, 2006
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Location
Nevada, USA
Flakey said:
2 4aa cell adapters would work much better im sure. and yes, the lamp is more than able to take the overdrive because it is a 2000 hour lamp.

This is modification is intereseting; if it is built using 8 AA batteries, what size Maglite does it fit? If you use 8 C batteries what size do you use?

andrewwynn said:
Flakey is right about the output capability of that lamp if you are using the West. 04424 lamp.. he pushed it to 97% overdrive without blowing it! just amazing.
-awr

How is the percentage for overdrive determined, example: would a bulb rated for 1 volt be 97% overdriven if you got 1.97 volts out of it?


Thanks for the help.
 

andrewwynn

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8xAA fits into a 2D light.. last night i was able to fit mine into a STOCK 2D, but it's a very tight fit and it's luck of the draw if they will fit.. they should be bored out to fit, then it's no problemo.

flakey's 8xC fits into a 6D light..with tailcap spring removed.

I calculate overdrive in WATTS.. volts or current is not what creates the heat that creates the light.. POWER is.. so just dividing power at the lamp by the stock power at the lamp..

in Flakey's 6D light with 8C NiMH.. he's pushing about 71WATTS through his "35w" bulb (quotes 'cause i didn't do a measured baseline.. i'm betting it's more like 36-37.. just like my '100W' osram bulbs that are 105 and 111 (62138 and 64625) respectively).

-awr
 
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