MagLED 3AA no brighter than 2AA - Why?

walkabout

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I picked up a Mini-MagLED 3AA yesterday. But it's no brighter than my 2AA MMLED.

It's not a battery problem -- I checked them with a multimeter.

I was expecting a third more output. What the heck is going on?
 
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Re: MagLED 3AAA no brighter than 2AA - Why?

If I'm not mistaken, the 3rd battery only adds runtime. Shouldn't be any brighter..

*edit* well, looking at flashlightreviews, I AM mistaken! I guess you have a bum unit?? Maybe you should call Mag and see what's up..
 
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Re: MagLED 3AAA no brighter than 2AA - Why?

It's probably not 1/3 brighter, but the 3AA is noticably brighter than the 2AA version and that should be apparent to the naked eye. If your 3AA is no brighter than a 2AA version, then as ACMarina mentioned, the unit that you picked up may not be performing up to par and you might want to return it to the store and pick up another one.

walkabout said:
I picked up a Mini-MagLED 3AA yesterday. But it's no brighter than my 2AA MMLED.

It's not a battery problem -- I checked them with a multimeter.

I was expecting a third more output. What the heck is going on?
 
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Re: MagLED 3AAA no brighter than 2AA - Why?

What happens if you switch the heads?
 
Re: MagLED 3AAA no brighter than 2AA - Why?

Being that the head doesn't contain anything more than the reflector, I'd guess zilcho, but my guessing isn't up to par today..

what are you thinking, planterz??
 
Re: MagLED 3AAA no brighter than 2AA - Why?

ACMarina said:
Being that the head doesn't contain anything more than the reflector, I'd guess zilcho, but my guessing isn't up to par today..

what are you thinking, planterz??
Right...

I'd forgotten how Mags are built, with the candle mode and all.

:stupid:
 
Thanks for your replies. I was thinking "dud" as well.

I'll return it and get another, hopefully from a different supplier.

I'd be happy to hear more users' impressions about the comparative brightness of the 3-AA.
 
Remember there's a certain percentage of output that needs to be different for the human eye to recognize a brightness change. Not sure what it is, but it might explain why the slight output difference is not immediately apparent to you.
 
Remember there's a certain percentage of output that needs to be different for the human eye to recognize a brightness change. Not sure what it is, but it might explain why the slight output difference is not immediately apparent to you.
I've found that at high intensity, such as lighting something up-close, that is true, but at low intensity (such as doing a ceiling bounce in a big dark room) I can detect much smaller differences in brightness. I think this is because at all but extremely low intensities the pupils tend to constrict quite a bit which offsets some of the apparent increase. This means that increased brightness in a flashlight is mainly useful for the following:

1) Light up a larger area to the same intensity (in a flood light)
2) Lighting up a target furhter away (in a throwing light)

for working up close, it's better to use the minimum light needed, and use the extra power to give longer runtime.
 
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the driver limits the brightness of the LED so tha it would not go to heaven.

it will stay at some point of brightness.

also, the driver will change the current according to the temperature of the LED(they have a diode there to sense the temp)

so haivng 1 more AA just adds runtime and helps the driver by not making it boost voltage from 3V to 3.6-3.9V.(with 3xaa the voltage is 4.5-4.2V so the driver just buck)
 
Side by side in a darkened room, shining at the wall, my 3AA seemed only slightly brighter than my 2AA. Then I did a ceiling bounce and the 3AA appeared to be substantially brighter. About 30% to my untrained eye. Also, individually they both seem to have a white tint, but side by side the 3AA seems slightly greenish, while the 2AA leans toward the pink side.
 
it should be brighter. color tint is random for maglite leds. from yellow to green to blue to pink... its all random luck.. damn luxeon lottery
 
3AA's for more runtime, not output. If you want output, don't buy a Mag LED 2AA or 3AA. Buy an old style 2AA incan and drop a sandwich with an SSC-P4 emitter on it. It will blow the Mag LED's out of the water.
 
Left, Magled 3AA. Right, Magled 2AA

dsc02865smallkn7.jpg
 
Haven't used an alkaline in many years, but on NiMH, the 3AA is just a touch brighter than the 2AA. The trick is that the 3AA runs a LOT longer than the 2AA and does not just wink out when the batteries go down. The 3AA fades slowly into nothingness.
 
M*gleds are nothing to sneeze at, though they are not out at the ragged edge of brightness.

A: Your 3AA is an underacheiver.
B: Your 2AA is an overacheiver.
C: The tint of the two is different enough to screw up your ability to tell.

My 3AA is indeed brighter than my 2AA. The tints are a bit different however...

My Madmax got sent off for a new superled and on 2AA it KILLS my 3AA M*gled!!!
 

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