Maglite (LED) - Unable to remove button/switch (set screw doesn't turn?)

sofakng

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I've purchased the Maglite ST2P016 LED 2D Pro in March of 2014 from Amazon but the button/switch doesn't work too good. The light flickers and I sometimes need to hit the flashlight a few times to get a better connection (switch contacts might need to be cleaned?).

However, I'm not able to remove the switch from the Maglite housing. I've tried both a 5/64 and 2mm hex key but the set screw doesn't turn. There is no resistance either so either the set screw is stripped or I am doing something wrong.

Can anybody help me?
 

sofakng

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Thanks so much for the reply!

Are you talking about cleaning the metal contact at the back of the switch assembly? I haven't cleaned it but it seems difficult to reach unless I can remove it first. I suppose I can find a long brush of some kind and try to reach it (and clean with Deoxit).

However, the set screw seems to either be stripped or my allen key is the too small, but I can't fit anything bigger in there.

For example, I insert the 5/64" allen key into the cylinder (under the rubber button) and it goes down quite far, but the allen key spins freely (ie. stripped screw?). It really feels like the screw is stripped or I need a bigger allen key (but anything bigger won't fit into the cylinder).
 

LEDphile

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Another possibility is that your hex key is too large,and isn't entering the socket. But I have no idea what the proper size should be
 

sofakng

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Unfortunately I also have a smaller 1/16" hex allen key and it doesn't seem to help any.

I'm pretty sure I can feel the edges of the socket with my 5/64" key but as I mentioned it feels like the socket is stripped or the key is too small still.
 

knucklegary

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If you no success removing switch. And, the tailcap contact to body is clean. I'd send it to Maglite for repairs. Many times it's easier for them to send you a brand new flashlight.
Btw, if you can feel the hex key engage into the screw head socket and it spins freely to right or left without tightening or loosening. That's a pretty good sign it's stripped.
 

LEDphile

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Realized I had Maglite of that vintage floating around. 2mm hex fits correctly. I didn't try 5/64, but 2mm is slightly larger than 5/64.
 

xxo

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it's probably a torx. At some point Mag stopped using hex and switched to hard to find torx. Both are included when you buy a new switch assembly.
 

sofakng

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I tried again with the 2mm and with some angled pressure I was able to get it out but it looks stripped as I expected:

IMG_5875.JPEG


Can I purchase a replacement set screw?

(I'm not sure how it became stripped... My first attempts were using a 2mm allen hex key...) It's also odd that the set screw has a hex-shape in the center, haha.

Thanks so much for the help!
 

sofakng

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Sorry -- Now I have to fix the original problem...

It looks like the way the switch works is by moving the circular metal piece up/down so it contacts the plates on either side of the hole, right?

Perhaps the metal ring isn't making good contact with the plates so I'll bend them inwards and also clean the ring.

However, after I reassemble the switch, the button is still sticky. I'm not sure which part(s) are causing it though. The button slides smoothly until I insert the spring and combine the black/blue halves of the switch?
 

bykfixer

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I rebuilt a switch one time. It took a few hours. The light worked erratically based on the switch malfunctioning. First thing that happened was a spring flew out "boing" and landed on carpet so it took a bit to find that.

Sounds like perhaps you are putting parts back together in the wrong order or the spring backward or something.

Reason it took me so long was trial and error until it started working correctly again. It was dirty so cleaning it worked.

Soon after I bought a Maglite repair kit at eBay. I'll just swap out the switch if need be.
 

aznsx

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Soon after I bought a Maglite repair kit at eBay. I'll just swap out the switch if need be.

Sounds like what in my circles is referred to as a FRU. Field-Replaceable-Unit. I'd swap it out.

Not ML in particular (I don't know their stuff well), but flashlight switches in general: When I have a switch issue that isn't easily resolved by application of de-ox or the like.......if I can physically replace it, and I can easily buy an OE replacement at reasonable cost; after removing the offending switch, a new switch will be going back in. At typical parts prices, if I'm going to have to mess with it, it's not worth it to me to put anything less than a new one back in.

It's also a chance to reset the old 'failure rate' and set the '#operations' counter back to zero, so I probably won't have to revisit that switch any time soon. That has value to factor into the equation, as it saves me time both now and (predictably) in the future (not to mention SDS (Sudden Darkness Syndrome).

Any time in the old days when I tried to repair a switch that clearly wasn't really designed to be repaired, it also usually didn't end well (although sometimes one must attempt anything that might be possible in order to get some 'thing' that's 'down' back up).

Edit: In my experience only industrial switches are designed to be repaired. They're modular.
 
Last edited:

knucklegary

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I tried again with the 2mm and with some angled pressure I was able to get it out but it looks stripped as I expected:

View attachment 32018

Can I purchase a replacement set screw?

(I'm not sure how it became stripped... My first attempts were using a 2mm allen hex key...) It's also odd that the set screw has a hex-shape in the center, haha.

Thanks so much for the help!
As already said, the driver it is called Torx. The inner hex you see is how the screw head is made, drop-forged..
Continue...
 

bykfixer

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Sounds like what in my circles is referred to as a FRU. Field-Replaceable-Unit. I'd swap it out.

Not ML in particular (I don't know their stuff well), but flashlight switches in general: When I have a switch issue that isn't easily resolved by application of de-ox or the like.......if I can physically replace it, and I can easily buy an OE replacement at reasonable cost; after removing the offending switch, a new switch will be going back in. At typical parts prices, if I'm going to have to mess with it, it's not worth it to me to put anything less than a new one back in.

It's also a chance to reset the old 'failure rate' and set the '#operations' counter back to zero, so I probably won't have to revisit that switch any time soon. That has value to factor into the equation, as it saves me time both now and (predictably) in the future (not to mention SDS (Sudden Darkness Syndrome).

Any time in the old days when I tried to repair a switch that clearly wasn't really designed to be repaired, it also usually didn't end well (although sometimes one must attempt anything that might be possible in order to get some 'thing' that's 'down' back up).

Edit: In my experience only industrial switches are designed to be repaired. They're modular.
Maglite switches (clicky or twisty) are designed to be repaired or replaced, but not necessarily in the field. Kinda like carberatuers used to be. I've never worked on their electronic switches so I do not know about those. But the mechanical and twisty head are like lawnmowers, as in fairly easy to fix if you know how.
 

sofakng

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Is it possible to lubricate the switch? I'd be more than happy to replace it but it looks like replacement kits are ~$30?

It seems like the issue is one of these parts that aren't sliding smoothly (ie. sticking):
IMG_5881.JPEG


Again, I really appreciate all of the help with this!
 

sofakng

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Sorry, but I have another question...

Can anybody recommend a Torx T8 allen key/wrench that will fit into the hole?

When I put the switch back into the housing I'll need to tighten the screw and don't want to strip it.
 
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