How does one go about doing this?The ML300 and ML50's are a big improvement on the old Mags, especially if you run them on Li-ions.
How does one go about doing this?The ML300 and ML50's are a big improvement on the old Mags, especially if you run them on Li-ions.
How does one go about doing this?
Well, nowadays, even the Sun looks dim by comparison to what's out there. And, oh yes; mine are definitely official Maglite drop-ins. They were sold through a Brick & Mortar shop, brand new, still sealed in Maglite blister packs. But even by the standards of back then, they were very bright. None had a dull finish on the outside of the drop-in. Both were shiny chrome in color.It was bright compared to inc. 3C, but today it is pretty dim. I had several maglites that came with these from the factoy, (otherwise it was ordinary inc maglite), all had this dull body, all used one of the first luxeon led. I ripped one apart, it has a pretty poor heat path. it was not sold for long, few years at best, Are you sure yours was actually made by a maglite co. did it have a maglite logo there, cuz there was dozens of third party drop ins on the market, still are.
3D printed adapters and protected cells are the best option. I would not recommend the Maglite 2C adapter as it lacks reverse polarity protection - put a cell in backwards and you will blow the LED.
Mine has mechanical reverse polarity protection - if you put a cell in backwards, it won't make contact (the button top needs to be facing forwards to make contact). I'm not too familiar with the design you linked to, but apparently, it uses a paper clip for the positive contact and most of mine use brass screws/nuts.I don't see any difference from the 3D printed adapter sleeve I linked and your own, how does yours differ in design, both can use protected cells no? 🤔
Mine has mechanical reverse polarity protection - if you put a cell in backwards, it won't make contact (the button top needs to be facing forwards to make contact). I'm not too familiar with the design you linked to, but apparently, it uses a paper clip for the positive contact and most of mine use brass screws/nuts.
Recessed contacts are nothing new, Mag used them in their C & D cell incan lights (I don't remember if incan Mini Mags had recessed contacts?) even though polarity generally dose not matter with incan bulbs.Ah yes I recall CPF member Illum suggesting a recessed contact point back in 2009 (as a means of mechanical reverse polarity protection), a simple but clever solution 👍
I don't own a 3D printer but could foresee a PVC plumbing supplies solution...
Have you tried it with a ML25 or ML50 using Mag's 18650 adapter?I'm would think reverse polarity will kill a stock magled, i tried installing batteries backwards with 2aa and 2aaa, on purpose, as well as powering rebel module from a 2d mag backwards, none suffered any damage.
no. do not have any of those, but I just tried with new mag tac 2, 2xcr123, no issues either.Have you tried it with a ML25 or ML50 using Mag's 18650 adapter?
I have. That's why I use reverse polarity protection in my 3d printed adapters.Now that i think of it, the led itself will not fail from reverse voltage, the driver?. depends what is it made of, resistors, ceramic caps, coils, thermistors, diodes, and some other parts, do not care about polarity, as in they wont burn out, so as long as you kiss, and use those kinds of parts, reverse voltage is no issue.
HAs anyone actually burned a Maglite by reversing cells? or heard of anyone do it? i did not.
Did you use a Li-ion adapter?Wow, that s some bad luck you got, i jut tried to kill 4 different maglites that way, no luck.
But in any case reverse protection would not hurt, whether needed or not.