Hey all,
I'm back at it again. I'm making a Maglite 2D into a ROP. I have way too much time on my hands and I just can't sit and read. Of course money is tight, so this is an inexpensive mod to replace tha standard tower.
Here's what I have for materials:
1/2" copper coupling
1" copper end cap
2 - 1" copper couplings
1/4" brass washer
A piece of 1/2" teflon rod
Most everything came from the local hardware. I use the copper fittings because I only have hand tools; files, sandpaper, a small hand drill, etc. I can't mill aluminum and I founf the copper fits the ID of the maglite body nice & tight when I'm done and withought a lot of filing or sanding.
Why am I making a metal tower for the ROP? Well, because I can and because it gives me something to do. It won't melt like a plastic one would and since I'm gutting the switch (different post later on) anyhow, I might as well have fun making a tower.
So here's photos and a little description as well:
I am using a 1/2" copper coupling as the tower itself. The bulb assembly is not a good fit in it, so I needed to split the coupling lengthwise with a hacksaw. The material removed allows for the coupling to be soldered back together and have an ID that just lets the bulb assembly slide inside.
I made a slot for the shoulder bolt on the bulb assembly. I just drilled a few holes and then used a couple small files to finish the slot. The shoulder bolt is the guide for the bulb assembly up & down as it's moved by the head rotating.
I used the 1" copper end cap and the 1" copper couplings to make the flat surface heat sink, that the tower is soldered to. In another post, I show more about the HS. Basically I slit one coupling and spread it to push the end cap inside. Then I solder them together and where the gap is from spreading the coupling, I fill in with a small piece of copper coupling cut to fit. I cut the assembly down short, so that it acts as a top cover on the switch and so that the overall height of HS and tower is the same as a stock tower.
I drill a 3/8 hole in the center of the HS and solder the tower on top centering it to the HS. The hole allows for the positive wire to come through from the bulb to the switch.
The rest of the photos should be self explanatory. The HS/tower will sit down on top of the modified switch, epoxied together and it will all become one piece. The + wire will be soldered to the upper metal cap of the spring assembly and will go directly to the new 15A switch that I am putting inside the original switch body, after it's hogged out. The - (neg) is the tower itself and will fit tightly in the mag body. I will remove the anodizing inside and will use soft copper shim, to make the fit real tight, so there will be good contact.
The gutted switch.
Here's the switch with the tower cut off and the surface made flush.
The 1/2" coupling is a little loose, so I split it with a hacksaw and soldered it back together, so the ID would be right when I slide the bulb holder in.
In process of making the slot
The bulb holder fits in place
The tower is soldered to the copper HS
Final assembly. The spring now has a brass washer on the bottom.
This is how it will fit in the Mag body. I still have to mod the switch.
Oh, what about the inner plastic sleeve, that holds the spring top cap and spring against the bulb? Sorry I have to ADD pictures for that yet, but I am using Teflon to make a new plastic inner sleeve. It's good to 500 degrees, so it's less likely to melt. I will add photos for that later.
Like I said, I have way too much time on my hands and I like to make things with my hands, so for me it's enjoyable and satisfying. That's why I do it. It's therapy I guess.
The switch will end up being a 15A pushbutton switch, fit inside the original switch body and will use the same outer rubber cover, so it will look stock. I will do another post of that when I get there.
I'm back at it again. I'm making a Maglite 2D into a ROP. I have way too much time on my hands and I just can't sit and read. Of course money is tight, so this is an inexpensive mod to replace tha standard tower.
Here's what I have for materials:
1/2" copper coupling
1" copper end cap
2 - 1" copper couplings
1/4" brass washer
A piece of 1/2" teflon rod
Most everything came from the local hardware. I use the copper fittings because I only have hand tools; files, sandpaper, a small hand drill, etc. I can't mill aluminum and I founf the copper fits the ID of the maglite body nice & tight when I'm done and withought a lot of filing or sanding.
Why am I making a metal tower for the ROP? Well, because I can and because it gives me something to do. It won't melt like a plastic one would and since I'm gutting the switch (different post later on) anyhow, I might as well have fun making a tower.
So here's photos and a little description as well:
I am using a 1/2" copper coupling as the tower itself. The bulb assembly is not a good fit in it, so I needed to split the coupling lengthwise with a hacksaw. The material removed allows for the coupling to be soldered back together and have an ID that just lets the bulb assembly slide inside.
I made a slot for the shoulder bolt on the bulb assembly. I just drilled a few holes and then used a couple small files to finish the slot. The shoulder bolt is the guide for the bulb assembly up & down as it's moved by the head rotating.
I used the 1" copper end cap and the 1" copper couplings to make the flat surface heat sink, that the tower is soldered to. In another post, I show more about the HS. Basically I slit one coupling and spread it to push the end cap inside. Then I solder them together and where the gap is from spreading the coupling, I fill in with a small piece of copper coupling cut to fit. I cut the assembly down short, so that it acts as a top cover on the switch and so that the overall height of HS and tower is the same as a stock tower.
I drill a 3/8 hole in the center of the HS and solder the tower on top centering it to the HS. The hole allows for the positive wire to come through from the bulb to the switch.
The rest of the photos should be self explanatory. The HS/tower will sit down on top of the modified switch, epoxied together and it will all become one piece. The + wire will be soldered to the upper metal cap of the spring assembly and will go directly to the new 15A switch that I am putting inside the original switch body, after it's hogged out. The - (neg) is the tower itself and will fit tightly in the mag body. I will remove the anodizing inside and will use soft copper shim, to make the fit real tight, so there will be good contact.
The gutted switch.
Here's the switch with the tower cut off and the surface made flush.
The 1/2" coupling is a little loose, so I split it with a hacksaw and soldered it back together, so the ID would be right when I slide the bulb holder in.
In process of making the slot
The bulb holder fits in place
The tower is soldered to the copper HS
Final assembly. The spring now has a brass washer on the bottom.
This is how it will fit in the Mag body. I still have to mod the switch.
Oh, what about the inner plastic sleeve, that holds the spring top cap and spring against the bulb? Sorry I have to ADD pictures for that yet, but I am using Teflon to make a new plastic inner sleeve. It's good to 500 degrees, so it's less likely to melt. I will add photos for that later.
Like I said, I have way too much time on my hands and I like to make things with my hands, so for me it's enjoyable and satisfying. That's why I do it. It's therapy I guess.
The switch will end up being a 15A pushbutton switch, fit inside the original switch body and will use the same outer rubber cover, so it will look stock. I will do another post of that when I get there.
