Still waiting on DX for my emitter and driver (they are being even slower than usual, 4 weeks and still haven't even shipped).
When I get my stuff though I'll try to post pics.
I'm still not sure about how exactly I should do the spring mod.
I had the same problem, even though i had a DSWOI bin P7. I saw that the problem was the small cables,they had enough resistance.
I always presume that people use adequate wire. With good silver coated teflon wire or other high quality wire it's possible to use very thin gauges with the currents used in these P7 Mag mods. For resistance from even medioker wire to have an impact I think very long pieces would have to be used, not a few decimeter in total. However, this problem isn't new as there have been difficulties reported now and then with these builds. I have helped some to resolve it, others never got it right and gave up. I have used several hundred of these driver boards in about ten or twelwe different builds and configurations without incident, mostly with 24 or 26 gauge wire and with currents up to 8-9A in total.
About this particular case of ashrakki's build I just don't know why it's not working. I'd have to see it/measure it physically to give an opinion.
I have built one 3D maglite with a P7. It has no regulator and seems to work fine. I am getting ready to build another 3c P7. Has anyone had a problem running the P7 (D coding) with 3 c batteries?
I have a question about the amc7135 chips that I couldn't quite get an answer for.
I wanted to see how hot my mag would be on full power in my setup:
Shiningbeam's MCE/P7 board sku#1217 (8xamc7135 and an atmel pic)
And after about ~25min it started to blink the led moderately like on/off/on/off/etc.... then seemed to drop to a lower brightness/output.
Is that thermal heat protection or low battery warning? Another cpf thread said it was too much voltage???