Maglite SSC P7. How to. A sort of guide.

[Supernam]

I can't wait to see your test. I've already done 5 P7's with 8xAMC. I haven't had any overheating issues with the boards running on 4 6Ah Titanium C's fresh off the charger at about 5.4-5.6v. They sag to 5.2 immediately after turning the light on. I have the boards arctic silvered chip side out to the Mag's tube which has the anodizing stripped off. I ran them from full charge until .9v per cell. The head was way hotter than the body right above the switch which was where I mounted them.

 

[StefanFS]

Two more pics of my last Mag SSC P7 3A 1D LiION build. The most wonderful light I own at the moment.

 

[uluapoundr]

Another nice light Stefan. I just bought a 1D, tribored from Mac. You think I should run a single li-ion D cell or take advantage of the tribore? What circuits you running on this light? Thanks for sharing, hope to share mine soon.

 

[Northern Lights]

...This is mounted in a 2D Maglite, options are 3 C size NiMH with some modding or one D-szi LiION cell and one spacer. The difference between 2.4A drive current and 3A is a few thousand lux in throw, ~20 000 versus ~25 000 lux. The big drawback is shorter runtime and more heat. Going from 2.4A to 3A will cut runtime dramatically...

Stefan

How does that translate to predicted lumens? I have a P7 that is at 2.20 amps amd uses a hop 26 or 28 mm reflector. I wonder for output and actual put-it-to-work light whether it is worth building the 3.0 A model.
I probably will because I am a flashaholic but I was looking for a practical side answer.

 

[StefanFS]

Another nice light Stefan. I just bought a 1D, tribored from Mac. You think I should run a single li-ion D cell or take advantage of the tribore? What circuits you running on this light? Thanks for sharing, hope to share mine soon.

D-LiION works very well. Is the tribore intended for three 18650? If it is I guess it would work very well also. I use the driver in the end of post #1. Two simple 1050 mA and one multi mode 1050 mA, all based on AMC7135. That gives me ~3A with one big LiION.

----------------------------

How does that translate to predicted lumens? I have a P7 that is at 2.20 amps amd uses a hop 26 or 28 mm reflector. I wonder for output and actual put-it-to-work light whether it is worth building the 3.0 A model.
I probably will because I am a flashaholic but I was looking for a practical side answer.

I'm not going to guess lumen output in detail, but I think it's in the top few percent of the original binning. The lux output is about 25% higher than one of my 2.4A Maglite running the same type of cell. There's a difference between my two 2.4A Mags and the ones running at 3A. I'm going to convert my 2.4A 1D Mag to 3A since I tend not to use it anymore in it's present form... I'll keep one 2.4A 3D Mag for long runtime.

Stefan

 

[farmall]

Not to get off topic, but where do I get a SSC P7 C bin ?

 

[fxstsb]

Large quote removed by moderator
Please note that it is unnecessary to quote entire posts if they are very large.

I finished mine using a bare emitter. The center (reverse side) of the emitter is positve. There is continuity between the center and the positive input of the emitter. Well it should be obvious that the case of the flashlight is Negative.
There is no doubt your light works but how did you isolate your heat sink from the rest of the light? Mine is direct drive.

 

[uluapoundr]

I'll let Stefan answer for his light. On a P7 build I did, I spread a thin layer of artic alumina epoxy on the heatsink where the emitter would go. After that dried, I again applied epoxy and gently stuck on the emitter. The heatsinks I used were both anodized, but I still didn't want to take that risk. By doing this, no need to isolate the heatsink.

 

[StefanFS]

I finished mine using a bare emitter. The center (reverse side) of the emitter is positve. There is continuity between the center and the positive input of the emitter. Well it should be obvious that the case of the flashlight is Negative.
There is no doubt your light works but how did you isolate your heat sink from the rest of the light? Mine is direct drive.

1. By using an anodized heatsink. Yes the guides are milled off and the sides are milled for the leads, but the anodizing is thick.
2. By using Arctic Alumina epoxy. Other thermal glues/epoxies will work as well as long as they are non conductive.

I have modded several dozen lights with various SSC emitters and I have never had any problems with isolation. There is much drama about this fact that the slug is positive on SSC emitters.

Just use some non conducting epoxy. Make sure nothing is left of parts you mill away, if you adapt an SSC P4 heatsink that is.

And please edit your post as it contains everything in the rather long first post you quoted. It messes up the thread.

Cheers,
Stefan

 

[CampingLED]

Is it worth it to do a P7 mod if I already have a Quad Cree Q5 mod? My feeling is that the light output should be fairly similar.

 

[TorchBoy]

Not to get off topic, but where do I get a SSC P7 C bin ?

One of these things?

 

[Northern Lights]

Is it worth it to do a P7 mod if I already have a Quad Cree Q5 mod? My feeling is that the light output should be fairly similar.

That is my very same question, here is the reply with pictures I got in another thread:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2472371&postcount=106

 

[fxstsb]

1. By using an anodized heatsink. Yes the guides are milled off and the sides are milled for the leads, but the anodizing is thick.
2. By using Arctic Alumina epoxy. Other thermal glues/epoxies will work as well as long as they are non conductive.

I have modded several dozen lights with various SSC emitters and I have never had any problems with isolation. There is much drama about this fact that the slug is positive on SSC emitters.

Just use some non conducting epoxy. Make sure nothing is left of parts you mill away, if you adapt an SSC P4 heatsink that is.

And please edit your post as it contains everything in the rather long first post you quoted. It messes up the thread.

Cheers,
Stefan

Thanks

 

[CampingLED]

That is my very same question, here is the reply with pictures I got in another thread:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2472371&postcount=106

Tks. Will rather wait for a next generation LED before I go for my next M-Mod. Here is my Quad M-Mod https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/194364 The Aspherical add-on gives great additional throw.

 

[StefanFS]

Is it worth it to do a P7 mod if I already have a Quad Cree Q5 mod? My feeling is that the light output should be fairly similar.

I think it boils down to what ones preferences are. I always sneered at the 'fragile' and 'overly complex' multi emitter Mag mods, but now I'm thinking about doing one for myself. Your quad CREE Q5 monster should be enough unless you specifically want about the same output from a one emitter light. Economically it would be unwise.

 

[CampingLED]

I think it boils down to what ones preferences are. I always sneered at the 'fragile' and 'overly complex' multi emitter Mag mods, but now I'm thinking about doing one for myself. Your quad CREE Q5 monster should be enough unless you specifically want about the same output from a one emitter light. Economically it would be unwise.

I was looking for an excuse to justify a P7 mod, but you guys did not help with the excuse. You did however help me with my budget and to like my Quad M=Mod even more - thanks for that.

 

[StefanFS]

I was looking for an excuse to justify a P7 mod, but you guys did not help with the excuse. You did however help me with my budget and to like my Quad M=Mod even more - thanks for that.

Repeat after me: I need an SSC P7 Maglite... They are so lovely... I must have an SSC P7 Maglite... I can't live without an SSC P7 Maglite...

 

[CampingLED]

Repeat after me: I need an SSC P7 Maglite... They are so lovely... I must have an SSC P7 Maglite... I can't live without an SSC P7 Maglite...

I need an SSC P7 Maglite... They are so lovely... I must have an SSC P7 Maglite... I can't live without an SSC P7 Maglite...
I need an SSC P7 Maglite... They are so lovely... I must have an SSC P7 Maglite... I can't live without an SSC P7 Maglite...
I need an SSC P7 Maglite... They are so lovely... I must have an SSC P7 Maglite... I can't live without an SSC P7 Maglite...:huh:

 

[warlord]

I would love to see a P7 vs multi cree beamshots.


I will have a SSC P7 Maglite in a FM host... They are so lovely... I must have a SSC P7 Maglite... my precious!

 

[Northern Lights]

I would love to see a P7 vs multi cree beamshots.

The romisen 4X cree is above, post #52,
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...&postcount=106
I have two Shyguang Nuwai TM-800x3 lights. One is modifies to 3X SCC P4, the other modified to 3X Cree Q2. The Q2 is brighter than the P4 and has some donut on 1 and 2 LEDs on but that goes away with 3x on, both lights throw about the same.
To tri-build or not to tri-build a LED light

My MTE P7 runs at 3.5 Amps on a fresh 18650.
P7 900 lumens MTE DX first impression good info for comparisons in this thread, like why build if you can buy?

The MTE on medium is by eye sight comparison about 1/3 brighter than the Q2 running high and therefore brighter than the P4, both Nuwai lights running all three LEDs. The throw is about the same. The P7 blows them away on high and has a very even beam, I would say the spill of the P7 is brighter than the hot spot of both modified Nuwai lights!

Now I wish I could show a beam shot of this, but the Romisen is better than the Nuwai mods and I gave you that link.

None of these lights I mentioned have the throw I like, but are good household lights to about 50-60 yards, all are flood.