Making a center height gage to set lathe tooling

precisionworks

Flashaholic
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
6,623
Location
Benton Illinois
My height gage is one of the most used tools in the shop. It probably wouldn't be, but each of my 20+ holders gets checked whenever it goes on the machine. Saves a lot of headaches.
 

gt40

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 13, 2009
Messages
443
Location
bainbridge island
yhst-58001632465561_2113_1370338


For only $22, this tool setter might be nice to have on hand. Would be better if it had a digital readout. :devil:

I went ahead and ordered one too. I am rapidly accumulating tool holders;)
 

350xfire

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 14, 2008
Messages
1,229
Location
Texas
Damn precision.. That came out nice... This is why you are considered a "machinist" while I am just a hobbyist!!! Very nice work.
 

PEU

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 26, 2004
Messages
3,600
Location
Buenos Aires / Argentina (I like ribs)
Made one for myself, modeled it in SW>CAM and to the CNC mill I went :)

Used a different way of adjusting the center before 1st use, instead of the method Energie used, I put a Stainless steel hex bolt (head flattened with the lathe) Its finished, I just need some threadlocking loctite to fix the screw in place.
Really handy tool, thanks for the ideas, and thanks to the OEM for the inspiration :)

centrador01.jpg

centrador02.jpg

centrador03.jpg

centrador04.jpg

centrador05.jpg

centrador06.jpg

centrador07.jpg

centrador08.jpg

centrador09.jpg


The bearings are pressed in place and so is the 1045 bar.
The level tube hole was kind of difficult to make, because it was the last operation, its offcenter a little, but it does not affect the device at all.
Its a little long for my lathe, forgot to check this when I modeled it, not a big deal since my cnc lathe is almost sold, next one will be CNCed by me, and of course will be bigger :D


Pablo
 
Last edited:

precisionworks

Flashaholic
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
6,623
Location
Benton Illinois
Nice work Energie & PEU :D

Only one small mod that will add lots of value to your tools - mill a small step at the end of the contact arm, perhaps 2mm wide & only .010" deep (I like to mix Metric & English). The step allows setting ID tooling like boring bars .010" above center, where they work much better (and have less chance of rubbing the bottom of the tool). The tool I made has this step, as does the Circle Machine tool shown in the first post.
 

PEU

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 26, 2004
Messages
3,600
Location
Buenos Aires / Argentina (I like ribs)
Using an height gage and a couple of precision rectangular gages to have the same height as the center of the bar I centered the bubble, then applied loctite 271 and let it rest for an hour, now the device is calibrated and ready to be used.

img1065x.jpg



Pablo
 

Energie

Enlightened
Joined
Nov 12, 2006
Messages
302
Location
Germany
Hi Pablo,

Nice device.
Perhaps it would have been better, to adjust it on your lathe.
Hopefully your lathe stands exact even.
 

gt40

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 13, 2009
Messages
443
Location
bainbridge island
Made one for myself, modeled it in SW>CAM and to the CNC mill I went :)

Used a different way of adjusting the center before 1st use, instead of the method Energie used, I put a Stainless steel hex bolt (head flattened with the lathe) Its finished, I just need some threadlocking loctite to fix the screw in place.
Really handy tool, thanks for the ideas, and thanks to the OEM for the inspiration :)

centrador01.jpg

centrador02.jpg

centrador03.jpg

centrador04.jpg

centrador05.jpg

centrador06.jpg

centrador07.jpg

centrador08.jpg

centrador09.jpg


The bearings are pressed in place and so is the 1045 bar.
The level tube hole was kind of difficult to make, because it was the last operation, its offcenter a little, but it does not affect the device at all.
Its a little long for my lathe, forgot to check this when I modeled it, not a big deal since my cnc lathe is almost sold, next one will be CNCed by me, and of course will be bigger :D


Pablo

Nice design. I may have to make something like this. I received the edge gauge people here have posted about and the pin is too small to fit in my bison 6 jaw. I guess I could machine a sleeve for it or use a collet but it will end up annoying me everytime I use it.

Your design looks good...
 
Last edited:

unterhausen

Enlightened
Joined
Jan 16, 2009
Messages
275
The rod in the Edge tool is fairly small. Before I opened the package I was thinking it couldn't possibly fit in that little box if they included the rod. Then I opened it and realized that the whole thing is quite a bit smaller than I thought it was. If it didn't fit in my 6 jaw, I would just put the rod in a drill chuck in the tailstock. I may do that anyway, seems like it would be easier.
 

wquiles

Flashaholic
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
8,459
Location
Texas, USA, Earth
The rod in the Edge tool is fairly small. Before I opened the package I was thinking it couldn't possibly fit in that little box if they included the rod. Then I opened it and realized that the whole thing is quite a bit smaller than I thought it was. If it didn't fit in my 6 jaw, I would just put the rod in a drill chuck in the tailstock. I may do that anyway, seems like it would be easier.

I received mine and found exactly the same thing. The OD of the steel rod is just "barely" smaller than the smallest diameter I can chuck with my Bison 6-jaw :mecry:

I like your idea of using the tailstock, but I also though about making a slightly larger steel "sleeve" so that I can hold it on the chuck ;)
 

precisionworks

Flashaholic
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
6,623
Location
Benton Illinois
The OD of the steel rod is just "barely" smaller than the smallest diameter I can chuck with my Bison 6-jaw :mecry:

Wow, my 8" Set-Tru grips down to 0.157" (4 mm) ... you must have the cheapo model:nana::lolsign:

Or maybe it's because mine is a 3-jaw instead of a 6-jaw ...
 

saltytri

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 20, 2008
Messages
531
First you guys talk me into buying an expensive 6-jaw chuck and then you make fun of it. Sheesh, it's tough to catch a break around here. :laughing:
 

wquiles

Flashaholic
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
8,459
Location
Texas, USA, Earth
Wow, my 8" Set-Tru grips down to 0.157" (4 mm) ... you must have the cheapo model:nana::lolsign:

Or maybe it's because mine is a 3-jaw instead of a 6-jaw ...
Well, as my machining mentor, you can make fun of me any time you want :D

But yes, the limitation on small diameters comes from the 6 jaws. Fortunately for the type of work that I do I very rarely hit this small OD limitation.


First you guys talk me into buying an expensive 6-jaw chuck and then you make fun of it. Sheesh, it's tough to catch a break around here. :laughing:
I still would not change mine to a 4-jaw or 3-jaw - I love my set-tru 6-jaw chuck :devil:
 

precisionworks

Flashaholic
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
6,623
Location
Benton Illinois
I have some W-1 drill rod, so I will be making a sleeve for it
That will work well, as long as you keep the drilling speed under 100 sfpm & use a "peck drilling" approach.

Because the drill is buried in the part, the AccuLube unit does very little to reduce the friction caused by the drill flutes contacting walls of the hole unless the drill is frequently withdrawn so the lubricant can be reapplied to the flutes. Try advancing the drill one revolution of the tailstock feed wheel, withdraw, then advance 2 turns, withdraw, 3 turns, withdraw, etc. W-1 is almost as unforgiving as stainless if the tool is allowed to get too hot.
 

wquiles

Flashaholic
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
8,459
Location
Texas, USA, Earth
That will work well, as long as you keep the drilling speed under 100 sfpm & use a "peck drilling" approach.

Because the drill is buried in the part, the AccuLube unit does very little to reduce the friction caused by the drill flutes contacting walls of the hole unless the drill is frequently withdrawn so the lubricant can be reapplied to the flutes. Try advancing the drill one revolution of the tailstock feed wheel, withdraw, then advance 2 turns, withdraw, 3 turns, withdraw, etc. W-1 is almost as unforgiving as stainless if the tool is allowed to get too hot.

Well, you brought back bad memories from drilling W-1, so I kept looking and found from 12L steel :devil:

The good thing about the sleeve is that I can still use the other side to hold the tool by a chuck on the tailstock as well. Here I for the sleeve almost completed (I still used the "pecking" method!):
DSCF3104.JPG



Test fit - a slight press fit:
DSCF3105.JPG



Finished sleeve:
DSCF3106.JPG


DSCF3107.JPG



After T4 "bluing":
DSCF3108.JPG


DSCF3109.JPG



In use:
DSCF3110.JPG



I centered a few tools - I will try cutting some Al pieces tomorrow to see how "well" the centering works ;)
 
Top