Making a P60 Copper Smoothie

LEDBE
Old-Lumens

Old-Lumens

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 2, 2011
Messages
154
Location
USA
copper1.jpg


I'm at it again!
I'm starting to feel like it's more fun making these "from scratch" lights than modifying other production lights.
I bought a P60 Drop-in from Illumination Supply and since it's my first one ever, I had no light to put it into, so I took a piece of 1" copper pipe and waddya know? It looked like a perfect fit (almost)...
The parts in the photo are a section of 1" copper pipe, various copper fittings, the modified drop in, a McClicky switch, 6AAA battery holder (3series/2parallel), a 2.8A - 8*7135 driver and a glass UV filter.
The story is best told in the video shown below.


The LED will be an XM-L T6 and should come the first of this week. I will do some beam shots when it's finished.
 
To hold in the lens ( other than press fit ) how about drilling out most of an end cap.
Maybe give it the same collar treatment as the tail.

Drilling a hole in an end cap and rolling it in with a die and press would also look killer
 
Oh, wow. I am floored! That is so awesome. Is the body pipe the same size as your last Cu pipe bomb? If so then it could be shortened even more if someone wanted to do it for a 1 "C" Li-Ion. It's really inspiring.

Oooh, I just thought of a name "CuPi"!
 
@nein166 - Yes, holding the lens in with another coupling might ge interesting.

@Ctechlite - Yes, the same 1" copper pipe.

Here's some photos of the finished light, it's done!

333.jpg


444done.jpg


222.jpg



The LED is an XML-T6.
 
Ctechlite said:
:clap:

Besides labor, I would be very interested what you have paid for supplies for this.
Click to expand...

Copper pipe and fittings all came from Lowes. I would estimate the following:

1" x 4' length of pipe $15 (might make 2 or three lights out of one 4' piece)
1" end cap $3
1" coupling $2
1/2" coupling $1
Heatsink (1/2", 3/4" couplings + pieces of 1" pipe cut to fit for fill in) $5
Copper sheet used as shim for heatsink to pipe fit $3 (at most any hobby shop)

P60 empty drop in $5
XML-T6 $9
Glass UV Filter (lens) $3
2.8A 105C Circuit board $7
McClicky switch was a gift, but I have seen them for $8-$10 online. Darksucks has them and I think one of the places mentioned below has them too.

I try to use Illumination Supply or Shiningbeam for my components such as drivers, leds, etc. They are in the US so lead time is great.

Of course there's the supplies like Arctic Alumina, wire, etc.


I think that's about it. It's not cheap (copper) and it is going up all the time. For a preson on a limited budget like me, this is an expensive light.


I did not like the McClicky at all and I won't use one again. I will probably go back to my original switch that was home made.
 
Yes, copper is going up all the time! Thats why I was curious as to the cost of the pipes. Thanks very much for taking the time to break it down for me like that, especially providing the links.

I'd like to hear more about the specifics of your opinion regarding the McClicky. Your original switch is very ingenious. I admire your ingenuity and ability to conceptualize outside of my experiences.
 
Ctechlite said:
Yes, copper is going up all the time! Thats why I was curious as to the cost of the pipes. Thanks very much for taking the time to break it down for me like that, especially providing the links.

I'd like to hear more about the specifics of your opinion regarding the McClicky. Your original switch is very ingenious. I admire your ingenuity and ability to conceptualize outside of my experiences.
Click to expand...

I don't know if the McClicky I got was bad, or if it is just the style but........

When I just start to depress it, that is when the modes have to change, in the very begining of depressing the switch. If I just press it till it clicks, then I can't change modes till I click it back off and then just barely depress it again. Let me say that I am old school. I am used to a maglite switch and one mode off or on. I don't understand these "clicky switches" and I don't like 'em. In fact I don't really like modes. I can see having a low mode is good if there's a power snap and you want long life from the light, but I don't get the general need of having many modes on a light. Just goes right past me. I only do them because it seems like anything nowadays has to have modes on it and people don't seem to want to buy a "one mode" light unless it's a hotwire flaming bright 1 mimute monster.

I'm done ranting now...
 
Old-Lumens said:
I don't know if the McClicky I got was bad, or if it is just the style but........

...I only do them because it seems like anything nowadays has to have modes on it and people don't seem to want to buy a "one mode" light unless it's a hotwire flaming bright 1 mimute monster.

I'm done ranting now...
Click to expand...

That gave me a good laugh. I don't think your ranting.

In regards to the McClicky, that sounds like it is functioning to the design intent. In my opinion I think you may, and I stress the may part, find a "reverse" clickie to be more to your liking for a multi moded flashlight driver. A reverse clickie will give you no light until a full press and latch, or click. At that point you have the ability to give a slight press (without de-latching the switch) to give the driver a signal to change modes. There is no momentary on function there, just momentary off.

The McClicky is a "forward" clicky, ie you have the ability to have a momentary on function, and a "reverse" clicky gives you a momentary off function. Everyone has their preference in a switch, and multi mode or single mode lights. I think you should try a reverse type clicky with multi mode and see how that floats your boat.
 
Ctechlite said:
That gave me a good laugh. I don't think your ranting.

In regards to the McClicky, that sounds like it is functioning to the design intent. In my opinion I think you may, and I stress the may part, find a "reverse" clickie to be more to your liking for a multi moded flashlight driver. A reverse clickie will give you no light until a full press and latch, or click. At that point you have the ability to give a slight press (without de-latching the switch) to give the driver a signal to change modes. There is no momentary on function there, just momentary off.

The McClicky is a "forward" clicky, ie you have the ability to have a momentary on function, and a "reverse" clicky gives you a momentary off function. Everyone has their preference in a switch, and multi mode or single mode lights. I think you should try a reverse type clicky with multi mode and see how that floats your boat.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the explanation! I did not understand Forward and Reverse clicky. Yes I believe a reverse would be better for me. Do you know of any particular reverse types that are built as well as the McClicky? I do know that the "budget switches" seem to be very poor quality and very low amperage.


Thank you,
Justin
 
I do not have any first hand experience with any particular reverse clicky switches. I have not actuated any beyond a couple of hundred times at most.

I would suggest a budget switch at this time even with your reservations about them. The low cost may outweigh any quality or current capacity concerns, and if used in this particular (and fabulous) light I don't think the current draw through a budget switch would pose any short, or even medium term complications. When switch actuations approach the thousands of uses then we may see a problem with contamination buildup.

It's a pain to wait for these, but I am unaware of a local (USA) source, but you could try these. I have removed the "http://www." from the beginning of the link to avoid any rules violations.

dealextreme.com/p/clicky-switch-for-flashlights-11-8mm-5-pack-5604

dealextreme.com/p/clicky-switch-for-flashlights-16mm-5-pack-5632

kaidomain.com/product/details.S003316

kaidomain.com/product/details.S005871
 
Judco switches are quality but I'm not sure they have a Reverse. I change all my multi mode lights to budget switches as I don't like having to choose the level before finishing the first click. I always tend to push too much and have to start over with the light off in the dark. The McClicky is wonderful and has its place in my single level higher current lights
 
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