Malkoff legos

nbp

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Yeah, magnets is what I was thinking too. But I wasn’t sure if this was something that had been encountered before and solved with some other switch insert or something.
 

ledbetter

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That’s why I sold mine. Tried using spacer, magnets, and gently lengthened spring connections. Still wonky depending on set up. I had best results with a zero res tail cap but just didn’t use it much.
 

nbp

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It’s not the end of the world. I traded an OR tail to my buddy who could use it more and he gave me this as I figured I could come up with some use for it. I wonder if it would work on a SF G2L or if it really only works properly on the MD lights. Thanks for the help anyways.
 

greatscoot

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I know, right?! I look through the Beat Up lights thread and love them all, and then I play so gently with mine. Haha

Also, do you guys know what is needed to make this Malkoff tailcap work with this Oveready E35 body? When I put an E series head on it the battery slides back and forth so there is no proper connection. I assumed it would fit like other P/C/Z/OR tails but no dice.

View attachment 23852
I have a similar set up, needed a spacer.
 

thermal guy

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Magnets or a spacer ?
I use old pennies…the years that are 100% copper.
lol your going to hurt yourself doing that. A spacer should be insulated 😂. I remember in the old days people using pennies when they blew a fuse in there house with the old screw in type fuses.
 

troutpool

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Oveready sells 5mm, 15mm and 34mm Delrin battery spacers. I'm guessing the short one would probably do the job for you. I use one in an Aleph lego with Lumens Factory switch that won't make contact without it.
 

kerneldrop

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lol your going to hurt yourself doing that. A spacer should be insulated 😂. I remember in the old days people using pennies when they blew a fuse in there house with the old screw in type fuses.

Worst case it bypasses the switch and is always on...for hard users like us that is most ideal.
The off-switch isn't needed for us 1%ers

I ground down the faces then used flitz to take off all the tarnish. I had minimal resistance. lol

Now that I've advanced I would just cut down to size a copper pipe from Home Depot and wrap it in electrical tape.
I don't need a connection that can withstand 40 amps like what these import studs are using.
 

knucklegary

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Martin might have some spacers 3mm (1/8") Although I doubt he will special order for just one or two spacers
 
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Robot Mania FU

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Has anyone in here tried their z41 twisty on an md1 body? Mine works fine on my md2's, md3's, and md4's and even the md1 when I throw 16340's in there, but for the life of me I can't get it to work with any of my 18350's.
 

nbp

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Re: Spacers. Ok, thanks guys I will look around and see what I can buy or maybe just make something. I had a spacer for a Peak but it was way too long to work with the E35 and Malkoff tail. Not a hurry really, as I don’t have a spare E head to put on it currently anyways but sometimes someone puts up something interesting for sale.
 

greatscoot

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Martin might have some spacers 3mm (1/8") Although I doubt he will special order for just one or two spacers
I have one of Martin's small spacers and the post is 5mm, the disk itself is 3mm. He is working on another project now and isn't doing any flashlight sruff.
 

kerneldrop

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Depending on how many amps you’re pulling there’s all kinds of ways to get this done.

Easiest thing I can think of is to Stack dimes and wrap the outside in electrical tape.

Another option is to get some 14,12 or 10ga solid wire from Home Depot and make a spiral shape with some needle nose pliers to the height you need.
 

kerneldrop

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Re: Spacers. Ok, thanks guys I will look around and see what I can buy or maybe just make something. I had a spacer for a Peak but it was way too long to work with the E35 and Malkoff tail. Not a hurry really, as I don’t have a spare E head to put on it currently anyways but sometimes someone puts up something interesting for sale.

You end up finding a solution?
 
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