Malkoff M91

[thermal guy]

Well that's cool! Is there a reflector in the head or is this a mule?

 

[greatscoot]

Reflector. It's a Mal-Ku.

 

[kerneldrop]

The head is a Mal-Ku? I didn't find any info on that.
Must be super exclusive turned on an Moore 250UPL lathe, ha

I've been trying to figure out other brands' heads that fit on Malkoff bodies.

 

[greatscoot]

The head is a Mal-Ku? I didn't find any info on that.
Must be super exclusive turned on an Moore 250UPL lathe, ha

I've been trying to figure out other brands' heads that fit on Malkoff bodies.

It's a McGizmo Haiku head.


Mal-Ku was a Malkoff/Haiku combination. It sounded better that HaiKoff.

 

[kerneldrop]

Ha, I see what you did there.

 

[greatscoot]

Next GB I want one that is HCRI. LH351D 5000K/ 5700K would be perfect.

I was thinking this exact thing (5000K) as I was walking my dog tonight with the 4000K. I wonder if the Samsung would work in the M91, I am going to reach out to Gene on this one.

 

[knucklegary]

My LH351D 4000k is a on the green side. I fixed with Lee minus grn filters.. Wondering is the 5000k also greenish ?

 

[greatscoot]

My LH351D 4000k is a on the green side. I fixed with Lee minus grn filters.. Wondering is the 5000k also greenish ?

I have both and I do not see any green.

 

[Buck91]

Now I generally enjoy a warm tint, but I find all of my 5000k LH351D to be a bit green and just looks "off" in the dark. Not noticable during the the day so much. Even in a dark room. But like I said, I'm a suck for a 3500k-4000k 219B or sst-20. The 3500k LH351D is pretty good though!

 

[knucklegary]

I have both and I do not see any green.

Scoot you won the tint lottery. Did 4000k come installed OEM flashlight, or a mod?
Mankrr E14III confirmed sucks so I know it's not just my perception.. However, it is my only sample of Samsuck. I read the LH351D 5700k CRI90 is a home run. I'd be down for either one

 

[greatscoot]

Scoot you won the tint lottery. Did 4000k come installed OEM flashlight, or a mod?
Mankrr E14III confirmed sucks so I know it's not just my perception.. However, it is my only sample of Samsuck. I read the LH351D 5700k CRI90 is a home run. I'd be down for either one

The 4000K was a DatiLED engine he built for me and the 5000K is in an HDS.

 

[Mr. LED]

Thanks!
was already a little afraid for that.
Might have to look at some other resistors then.
If I understand correctly at the moment the standard resistor for the high/low ring is 75 ohms.
Need to find something with a smaller resistance I suppose.

would be nice if the low output would be in the 50-60ish range. This should still give lots of running hours I suppose.

I did this mod last week. The original resistor of the high/low ring is 68ohms (blue - grey - black). With one 18650 on my MD2, the M61N (SST-20) puts out around 10 lumens. I wanted twice that, so the new resistor is around half the value, I used 33 ohms. Removing the original epoxy is a PITA, as you have to be very careful with an X-acto knife and slice it, dig it and remove everything. Then, an even bigger PITA is soldering the new resistor directly to the brass ring, since it acts as an instant heat sink, using a regular soldering iron, will only create cold solder joints. I tried for almost 30 minutes to get a solid joint, using lots of solder paste and letting the ring get very hot. But beware, the low activation switch has a plastic tube inside the ring which might melt if it gets too hot. In the end all went well and now I have a 20 lumen low, which is perfect.

Also changed the resistor on my Hound Dog Super, changed from 33ohms to 5.7ohms, which is giving out something around 450 lumens on low, and 3+ hours of runtime with MD4 body. With MD2 body, the high is around 600+ lumens and low around 200 which is basically M61NL with very good runtime. It's much easier to solder because there's no direct soldering to the brass ring, only to the board and the switch.

New resistor already covered in new epoxy

Hound Dog Super board without the resistor

 

[thermal guy]

I remember talking to gene years ago about offering different resistant rings. He said he might look into an adjustable pot like the old SF A2 had. not sure how he still feels about this but it would be nice as hell to have.

 

[Mr. LED]

I remember talking to gene years ago about offering different resistant rings. He said he might look into an adjustable pot like the old SF A2 had. not sure how he still feels about this but it would be nice as hell to have.

Now that would be perfect! Let's flood Gene's mail inbox…

 

[knucklegary]

Malkoff responds better to CPF polls, rather than overwhelmed with emails. Just saying..

 

[fulee9999]

I remember talking to gene years ago about offering different resistant rings. He said he might look into an adjustable pot like the old SF A2 had. not sure how he still feels about this but it would be nice as hell to have.

How does that work...? I mean I know how variable resistors usually look like, but how do you go about changing it? Was it the flat screwhead type of deal, or a slider, or how was it accessible?

 

[thermal guy]

It was like a little plastic screw that you could turn. It was not meant to be used regularly just a few times as it was very fragile.

 

[Megalamuffin]

I remember talking to gene years ago about offering different resistant rings. He said he might look into an adjustable pot like the old SF A2 had. not sure how he still feels about this but it would be nice as hell to have.

Not sure if it's possible, but a hi/low ring for p60 lights would be awesome.

 

[fulee9999]

Not sure if it's possible, but a hi/low ring for p60 lights would be awesome.

well, Elzetta has the hi/lo in the tail and it's almost the same size as the C tails of Malkoff/SureFire, so technically, it's feasible

 

[Megalamuffin]

well, Elzetta has the hi/lo in the tail and it's almost the same size as the C tails of Malkoff/SureFire, so technically, it's feasible

Is it like the sf gas pedal switch? I suppose the elzetta doesn't fit sf/malkoff?