Malkoff MD60
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ganymede
Enlightened
Guys,
I just bought a MD60 off CPFM. To be honest, the XM-L is greenish. I am sitting here wondering should I swap out the XM-L to the newer XM-L2 or maybe say XP-G2 or Nichia 219?
Also, I noticed that Malkoff website is currently selling the XM-L2 MD60 rated at 650 lumens. Any difference in the drive current between my (older) module and the newer module with XM-L2 emitter?
I just bought a MD60 off CPFM. To be honest, the XM-L is greenish. I am sitting here wondering should I swap out the XM-L to the newer XM-L2 or maybe say XP-G2 or Nichia 219?
Also, I noticed that Malkoff website is currently selling the XM-L2 MD60 rated at 650 lumens. Any difference in the drive current between my (older) module and the newer module with XM-L2 emitter?
jamesmtl514
Flashlight Enthusiast
I can't help with the difference between the two emitters, i can however confirm that mine also has the green tint
ganymede
Enlightened
Even though you didn't buy it directly from Malkoff, or are the original owner, it's worth contacting Gene to see if he would be willing to swap out the LED or module all together. I had an M91 that had the sickest, purply tint I've ever seen. We talked for a while and he swapped it out with a "custom" M91N for me. Great guy.
These MD60's have had a green reputation since release. I would have expected Gene to start choosing better binned LED's after all of this feedback.
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Just curious, how does a reflector contribute to color?
Doesn't a reflector just reflect? Color in = color out?
WarriorOfLight
Flashlight Enthusiast
I have 3 MD60's with XM-L (not XM-L2!) the color tint is perfect, nothing greenish tint with my MD60's.
ganymede
Enlightened
Thank you all for the replies. Any idea what's the driver current for my original version?
ganymede
Enlightened
RedLED
Flashlight Enthusiast
Well here's my new MD60 build. I do have a Z49 coming to replace the current tailcap. The MD60 fits perfectly in the KT1, however there is a small gap when screwing the body on to the collar of the head. It appears that the base of the LED tower bottoms out on the body where it steps down to hug the batteries - and I can't tighten it further to close the gap. This last photo shows this gap. Not a big deal to me and I can always add a GITD o-ring someday to fill the gap.The beam is awesome! The LED is centered in the reflector perfectly to produce a very tight and focused hot spot and it still has some spill to go along with it. This baby throws like champion. :devil:
I have the same setup only with a Triad Tail cap from Oveready/Moddoo with a McClicky installed by OR, and I love it!!!--Redled
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A couple of questions, if you don't mind:
- Can I run an MD60 on six primaries in an M6? Wouldn't that exceed the 14volt max?
- Is the XML-L2 supposed to have a better tint? Warmer?
- Is heat ever an issue? Can I run this thing for two hours in an M6 with no chance of damage to the LE?
Many thanks.
- Can I run an MD60 on six primaries in an M6? Wouldn't that exceed the 14volt max?
- Is the XML-L2 supposed to have a better tint? Warmer?
- Is heat ever an issue? Can I run this thing for two hours in an M6 with no chance of damage to the LE?
Many thanks.
Justin Case
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2008
- Messages
- 3,797
I think I found what I am looking for:
XM-L: 0.8A@9v
XM-L2: 1.17A@9v
That's not the driver current. That's the current draw from the batteries that are supplying 9V to the tower.
BenChiew
Flashlight Enthusiast
Vernon. The m6 with 6 primary is on 9volts (9.6v when full). Only the m4 will have a 12volts (12.8v when full).
Since Malkoff rates the runtime at 1hr for the 9v, you should get 2 hours on 6 primary.
Since Malkoff rates the runtime at 1hr for the 9v, you should get 2 hours on 6 primary.
HydroDynamic
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2011
- Messages
- 26
I received a new MD60, XML2, 650 lumen. The tint is two parted. The spill is 6500k as stated but the spot is yellowish off white. No green, blue, or red. The output is not overrated, I would consider it 650 led lumens on the Surefire scale.
I have a M6LT which is brighter with a monster spot and no spill but I would still take the original M6 with choice of MD60 or bulbs.
If you have a M3,4,6 get a MD60 before productions runs stop. If you don't have a M3,4,6 get ahold of one while people will still sell them. They are going to be the muscle cars of flashlights. Throw in a MD60 and you can get the performance while still having a classic.
I have a M6LT which is brighter with a monster spot and no spill but I would still take the original M6 with choice of MD60 or bulbs.
If you have a M3,4,6 get a MD60 before productions runs stop. If you don't have a M3,4,6 get ahold of one while people will still sell them. They are going to be the muscle cars of flashlights. Throw in a MD60 and you can get the performance while still having a classic.
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tobrien
Flashlight Enthusiast
I've been seriously considering an MD60 for a while now, but how does its throw compare to the MN60 bulb in an M4? My M4's current MN60 LOLA throws pretty decent, but does the XM-L2 MD60 out-do that MN60?
tobrien
Flashlight Enthusiast
I think you're better off reaching out to nailbender and seeing if he can still do a custom LED tower. The MD60 didn't throw nearly as far as the MN20/MN60 (M6/M4), and the tint was pretty bad.
I'm sure it's still a bulletproof drop in, but the color leaves a lot to be desired.
I'm sure it's still a bulletproof drop in, but the color leaves a lot to be desired.
tobrien
Flashlight Enthusiast
gotcha, thanks man! I hope the Malkoff crew potentially comes up with a solution to the bad tint and making the MD60 into a better thrower than the MN60. :/
I'll probably shoot them an email about this stuff.
Bullzeyebill
Flashaholic
Gene has used two different LED's for the MD60.
Bill
Bill
