Maratac AAA Q5 (Part 3)

[slipe]

These numbers are about average for several references I found:
heat transfer coefficient
• Stainless steel - 21 W/mK
• Aluminum - 221 W/mK

One thing SS has going for it is that sandblasted it radiates about half as much heat as HA III, which is pretty good. Polished it radiates only about 20% as much.

MKLight's experience with the light not even getting warm after 5 minutes would give me pause. The light is producing the heat unless something is wrong with it.

I just put my black Maratac under a fan about two feet away blowing directly on it – much more than a light breeze. After two minutes on high (10440s) it was warm approaching hot. Not nearly as hot as it gets in still air, but it was quite warm. Most of the cooling is obviously from conduction since it is greater than in still air. But the HA III is also radiating more heat. I wouldn't be comfortable running a polished SS for five minutes on high with 10440s knowing all that heat was being trapped inside. I'm not comfortable running my black model for more than a couple of minutes on high with both better conduction and emissivity.

I don't think I would polish a SS Maratac and put 10440s in it. But not being a certified flashaholic I think of a light as a tool.

This is an interesting read: http://www.molalla.net/~leeper/coatbar.htm

I take issue with his saying high solids white paint has the same emissivity as black within a percent. Unless he has found a white paint he can put beside something black in the sun and get just as hot he is violating a basic law of thermodynamics. Kirchhoff's law says emissivity equals absorptivity.

 

[Patriot]

Slipe, I can't speak for MKLight's experience but I can demonstrate with an instrument that the idea of SS Maratac supposedly "not getting warm" isn't the case.

SS
start temperature 79F
1 minute 85F
2 minutes 89F
3 minutes 93F
4 minutes 97F
5 minutes 100F

Nat HA
start temperature 81F
1 minute 88F
2 minutes 93F
3 minutes 99F
4 minutes 102F
5 minutes 104F

This test was done with a 10440 on medium, while sitting on the desk. These readings are nearly identical to what I recorded before I polished the light. Besides, the light is 75% covered with knurling so sanding down the micro abrasion left by the bead blasting just isn't going to have much of an effect if any In any case, as you can see by the numbers, the difference in material doesn't play an extraordinary role in this case.


All of this thermodynamic information is great but it's not representative of how we typically use these lights, as we're usually hold them on our hand. This keeps them cool enough that we don't have to worry much about the issue of heat to begin with. If we're using the light on high with a 10440, we shouldn't be worried about the heat, we should instead be worried about the cell. Two minutes of high on the 10440 is really placing a load on the cell. I would personally keep under a minute if you're doing this regularly. I use a "beater" cell when doing my testing.

 

[slipe]

Mine gets pretty hot in my hand on high – maybe I have poor circulation. It seems that is still a function of conductivity.

Maybe the SS is easier on the battery by retaining a little more heat.

 

[SkunkWerx]

Recived my Maratac-AAA and the 9290-AA in the mail. Happy light day!

I like both of these lights quite a bit. Will probably go for the SS version of the AAA soon now that I can see the AL in person.
Here they are pictured with the Fenix E01 for a visual comparison.

 

[StandardBattery]

The SS Version is quite impressive, and those polished ones look great. I guess everyone needs 2 so that they can polish one of them.

The Driver Pill is the new design like the iTP Extended/Enhanced light, where the PCB is flush with the top of the pill and knotched into the pill. No indents at the edge of the pill for assembly/disassembly, need to use holes in PCB. This is actually good because standard tools will work better, so if they did not seal it too tight we should be able to open them. I have not opened mine yet.

The weight is really nice, but I also like the light aluminum one for shirt pocket and ultimate light weight travel.

Electrical Issue: I do seem to be having some electrical issues with my SS, and I can't put my finger on it yet. Cleaning seemed to make it worse. I'm beginning to think it is some coating or contact issue with the spring in the bottom. Assemble the light and if it works it stays working. Disassembling (completely open) and reassemble, if it does not work then only completely opening and closing the light seems to get it working again. Very Very Strange. So don't panic if the light is DOA, it may not be DOA.

 

[Patriot]

That 9290 looks ginormous for an AA light! What they need to do is make a AA version of the AAA light. Funny how small the Maratac is, even next to the EO1.

 

[MKLight]

I will have to more tests. I fully charged the 3 10440's I have and only 1 actually fully works. One was dead off the charger and the other doesn't seem much better. The third seems fine. I'll have to get more 10440's. I've always been told I have asbestos hands, so I don't feel heat all that much. I guess I'm also more used to the tiny lights that get very HOT!!! I love my Lummi Raws, but on high, they can get so hot in your hand you have to put it down and/or turn it off...the latter being what I usually do...

 

[sabre7]

Just received the iTP EOS 3 mode natural and did a quick comparison with my Maratac natural. The EOS came lubed, and has a darker, equally durable looking finish, but is much more slippery compared to the aggressive knurling on the Maratac. The pocket clip is the same on both models. They seem to be the exact same length & diameter except for the split ring nub on the EOS. The Maratac tail is a larger diameter than the EOS. The EOS split ring hole is very small, and cannot accept split rings much larger than the rather thin one it comes with, no room to bore it out larger, but seems thick enough not to wear through. There is no smooth recessed area for reversing the clip on the EOS like there is on the Maratac.

Emitter on EOS is centered, slightly cooler tint than Maratac, but both have very nice white tints. EOS has the "shinier" OP reflector that has been reported on the black Maratacs. Both seem to be very close in brightness on all 3 levels in ceiling bounce tests, but EOS hotspot is more pronounced, probably because of the reflector, making it seem slightly brighter and capable of more throw.

 

[Woods Walker]

Yea the reflector in the Black 3-mode ITP seems like the black Maratac photos I have seen here. The back of the box says highly water resistant but didn't give anything more than that. The O-ring is smaller than the E01 but the threads came lubed and seem well done so guessing it would be dunkable for sure. Also they could have done without the crazy key chain in my view. It is larger than the light.:laughing:

Still looking for those cool runtime charts. With the interest in the light someone is going to do it.

edit. It does have good throw in my view.

 

[DaFABRICATA]

Electrical Issue: I do seem to be having some electrical issues with my SS, and I can't put my finger on it yet. Cleaning seemed to make it worse. I'm beginning to think it is some coating or contact issue with the spring in the bottom. Assemble the light and if it works it stays working. Disassembling (completely open) and reassemble, if it does not work then only completely opening and closing the light seems to get it working again. Very Very Strange. So don't panic if the light is DOA, it may not be DOA.

I'm having the exact same issue...except when I clean the threads and reinstall the head it works correctly.😕
I was going to give the SS one to my brother because he is hard on his tools.
I'm going to keep it and give him the HA version so he doesn't complain about the issue.
I hope there is a way to fix this...:ironic:

 

[sabre7]

Yes EOS has more throw than Maratac.

 

[Woods Walker]

Yes EOS has more throw than Maratac.

Yea I was night hiking today and seen some glowing eyes. Had the Rebel EOS headlamp on high but couldn't make out the critter. Guessed it was a deer based on the hight but well yea know how it is. Took out the ITP for kicks and was able to make out the animal's shape. So out threw my headlamp. Kinda happy with the light.

 

[MKLight]

I will have to more tests. I fully charged the 3 10440's I have and only 1 actually fully works. One was dead off the charger and the other doesn't seem much better. The third seems fine. I'll have to get more 10440's. I've always been told I have asbestos hands, so I don't feel heat all that much. I guess I'm also more used to the tiny lights that get very HOT!!! I love my Lummi Raws, but on high, they can get so hot in your hand you have to put it down and/or turn it off...the latter being what I usually do...

Just took the good 10440 battery off the charger and set the timer for 5 minutes. Interestingly, after about 45 seconds the light dimmed dramatically...and not surprisingly, it was cool to the touch. So, it obviously my UltraFire 10440s. I've tried L92 Energizer Lithiums and they work at a higher brightness longer. Haven't checked heat/temperature, though. I'll have to eventually get more 10440s...

 

[StandardBattery]

I'm having the exact same issue...except when I clean the threads and reinstall the head it works correctly.😕
I was going to give the SS one to my brother because he is hard on his tools.
I'm going to keep it and give him the HA version so he doesn't complain about the issue.
I hope there is a way to fix this...:ironic:

I've heard a couple others having the issue as well. On these lights only the end of the tube/outer-pill-contact, battery+/Pill-contact, Battery-/Spring-contact, and Spring/body contact are required to provide the electrical path. So the Threads are technically not an issue. The lube though could be getting on the end of the tube, or even small debri loosened by lub might prevent contact.

In these type of lights it's usually the end of the tube that needs to be properly maintained, but that does not appear to be the source of the problem (could be though, it's not a nice flat surface for mac area).

Ha even a minor issue like this could affect their 'gifting' status to a non flashaholic.

 

[SkunkWerx]

That 9290 looks ginormous for an AA light! What they need to do is make a AA version of the AAA light. Funny how small the Maratac is, even next to the EO1.

Excellent idea! I'd buy a 1AA version of the AAA, in a heartbeat!

No electrical (or any) issues at this end.
I tested, re-tested, reseated the batteries a couple of times, Both the AAA and 9290 seem solid.
I must have gotten ones made on Wednesday, beginning fo the day, not Friday afternoon, after paychecks were handed out. 😉

 

[Nake]

Electrical Issue:[/B] I do seem to be having some electrical issues with my SS, and I can't put my finger on it yet. Cleaning seemed to make it worse. I'm beginning to think it is some coating or contact issue with the spring in the bottom. Assemble the light and if it works it stays working. Disassembling (completely open) and reassemble, if it does not work then only completely opening and closing the light seems to get it working again. Very Very Strange. So don't panic if the light is DOA, it may not be DOA.

I had a similar issue with mine. When I opened it up, the spring was loose and near the opening of the tube. I pushed it down with a battery and it flickered when on. So, I took another battery and pushed on the battery already in the light to try and seat the spring into the bottom better. That seemed to do it as it works fine now.

 

[Patriot]

The only problem I've encountered was a poor contact fault. I mentioned the remedy in Part 2 of the Maratac thread and it worked great. Here's a copy of that post.

Patriot
Remove the head and battery. Place some 600-800 sand paper on a flat surface and rotate the battery tube face on the flat surface a 3 or 4 times to clean up the bare, flat contact edge of the tube. Clean good with a dry rag. Use a Q-tip or rag and clean the contact plate/circuit board on the inside of the head then lube and reassemble. Let us know if that helps. 🙂

 

[AFAustin]

Just got back from one week in Mexico for my daughter's wedding (she married a Canadian so they decided on neutral territory 😀). The only lights I took with me to this happy event were a Maratac natural, and a Peak Matterhorn for back-up. I gotta say this little Maratac has now moved up to my current all time best-bang-for-the-buck light. It performed beautifully---everything from nighttime walks along the beach with my wife, to reading in bed, to you name it. I just popped in an e2 and took a few extra cells---no need to bother with NiMH and charger for a short trip.

As many others have commented, the Maratac manages to combine so many desirable features in one tiny, inexpensive package:

*3 well-chosen levels;

*a beautiful, floody beam with a nice neutal tint;

*easy one-hand operation, thanks to the great knurling but even more so to the elongated head (simple, brilliant concept---I wonder why so many AAA twisties have short, hard-to-grip heads?);

*simple, no-manual-required UI;

*tiny size and featherlight wt.;

*the good clip, together with the smooth twisty action, makes it so easy to whip up from your pocket, shoot a quick blast, and have it back in your pocket faster than Wyatt Earp!;

*reversible clip allows for headlight function;

*wide tailcap makes for stable tailstanding;

*great runtime---an informal test I did a while back yielded around a solid hour on high with little dimming;

*and best of all---the bargain price means I wasn't fretting about the chance it would get lost (though it didn't, and not even a second look from TSA 🙂).

The only negative I've seen so far is the very noticeable PWM on low---it is so strong at times that I think I have a flicker issue, but, given other CPFers' comments along this line, I imagine it is indeed the PWM. 🙁

The only mishap at the wedding was when my daughter, the beautiful bride, was cutting up with her bridesmaids on the beach during their "bachelorette party", and managed to break her little toe on a rock (ouch! :mecry🙂. My wife, never interested in flashlights herself though she's grown accustomed to my addiction, remarked, "Well, I'm just glad that when Dad and I walked on the beach, we always had a flashlight!" :candle:

So, here's one more toast (after the wedding, I'm still very much in "toast mode"), to my nominee for 2009 Best Bang-for-the-Buck Light, the Marvelous Maratac! :buddies:

 

[oronocova]

^odd I haven't noticed the PWM. I have one other light that uses PWM or at least has noticeable PWM and my Maratac is not that noticeable. It might be somewhat subjective though. Only difference is I am using L92 lithiums, dunno if that matters or not. If I wave my hand in front of mine you can barely tell.

 

[Patriot]

I'm fairly sensitive to picking up on PWM but it's not something that bothers me. I usually I'm just happy having the light when I need it. Comparing the Maratac's PWM to the LOD Q4, the Maratac's is a little bit faster. It would be really nice if they increased the frequency like Fenix did with the LD01, but I have no complaints with this little gem. The polished SS has really grown on me and I'm glad MKLight gave me the idea.