BVH,I'd guess there is very little, if any surge. I have a 10-year old G.E. Frige that is DC inverter driven. It is whisper quiet at the moment of start and takes about 6-8 seconds to come up to speed. I put a surge measuring clamp meter on it a long time ago and don't remember the number but it was nothing for all practical purposes. I didn't buy it for that reason, but just got lucky.
I absolutely agree!Preventative maintenance beats doing it in the dark during a thunderstorm. Glad you caught it in time!
We are in the middle of a four day heat wave with "feels like" temps over 100F. My windows are not conducive to air conditioners, and I have a 10 K unit that is too large to mount in a window without removing the window itself. So my plan is to lie this baby on the floor, and close the sliding door onto it, and fill the top space with 1 1/2" insulating foam.
It will be interesting to see how well it works. It will also be a emergency prep, should we have a power outage, and I had to run the house on a 120V generator, with a window AC for comfort. I'm thinking that it is better to get the materials I need and size them up, prior to the actual emergency, especially when the materials may not be available, when they are actually needed.
Perhaps your dryer outlet was in violation of code. In NJ all outdoor outlets must be "Ground fault" protected. Maybe you just need a ground fault breaker for it.Playing email tag with the electrician while they chase down a the correct interlock and an inlet - in the mean time I have a 14-50 dryer outlet outdoors since I guess they had to terminate the connection somehow for safety. Maybe a friend will park their Tesla in my driveway and has a really long extension cord and I can test the breaker.
In the event I demand more than ~7kW of power I can swap it for something beefier.
Suggest a trial run before 'the real thing' happens.
The sole concession to safety is the splash cover. Since I've zero interest in hacking together a suicide cord, the odds a Tesla will deposit itself in my driveway with all the accoutrements necessary to charge, and I've no other 240V appliances not already on their own more convenient circuits ... I'll not throw the soon to be interlock breaker and await conversion of my new puzzling outdoor dryer outlet to proper generator inlet.Perhaps your dryer outlet was in violation of code. In NJ all outdoor outlets must be "Ground fault" protected. Maybe you just need a ground fault breaker for it.
Or not. Nothing like a challenge on short notice.Regarding a trial run? I thought only IT people did that.
They are predicting another day of 99F actual temperature that feels like 112F due to humidity again today. Yesterday, the central AC struggled in the middle of the day, and could only hold 75F in the coolest room. The Family room must have been about 79. So I'll leave it in place today, and put it back into storage tomorrow, when the temps will be more normal.
With the insane prices of wood lately a foam board over a broken window may be a lot more affordable than buying a sheet of plywood these days. I always make sure I save a few large cardboard boxes as you can cover them with plastic to put over a window and unless there is a 50 mph wind on it, should be ok till the window is fixed. Tarps are fine too but a roll of thick plastic is sometimes better as it is cheaper and can be cut to fit and you don't worry about putting holes in it and you can get clear plastic also and colors that are less conspicuous too, even white plastic can reduce heat vs a dark tarp that is often heavy and has to be more supported to keep from sagging. A roll of plastic can be stored easily and thrown away after use instead of having to be cleaned up and folded etc.Foam board is rather bulky, but that just the type stuff that's very handy during rough times. I have more space than most and am able to keep a few sheets of plywood, some 2x4 boards, couple of tarps, and some roofing nails. That should be enough to handle most reasonable roof/window damage from storms/etc.