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idleprocess

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And speaking of, regular exercise is a way to prevent generator atrophy. Running on generator power right now, myself.
 

Poppy

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Hmmmm, here's a picture of the Wen, vs the Predator.
I wonder if the Predator uses the same but doesn't label it.
IS there a hard click or something that you can FEEL before passing into the OFF?


1695210469413.png1695210568546.png
 

scout24

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Turbodog- Thanks for the link to that switch kit. I've been fortunate I guess, I exercise mine regularly but only drain the bowl once in a while. And thanks for digging around in there. BVH- I have to check my serial number today. My 7000 has been great except for needing a fuel filter at about 1000 hours if I recall. It started hunting and surging never shut off. These were a known issue and it's been fine since replacement.
 

turbodog

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Turbodog- Thanks for the link to that switch kit. I've been fortunate I guess, I exercise mine regularly but only drain the bowl once in a while. And thanks for digging around in there. BVH- I have to check my serial number today. My 7000 has been great except for needing a fuel filter at about 1000 hours if I recall. It started hunting and surging never shut off. These were a known issue and it's been fine since replacement.

There's not a great place to mount the switch. I drilled a hole above the air filter. The bit wants to grab/gouge. A step bit would probably be best. IIRC the switch is supposed to be waterproof.
 

idleprocess

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Hmmmm, here's a picture of the Wen, vs the Predator.
I wonder if the Predator uses the same but doesn't label it.
IS there a hard click or something that you can FEEL before passing into the OFF?


View attachment 49443View attachment 49444
There's no discrete detent on my Wen generators, simply a point between "fuel off" and "off" where you can feel the valve start to actuate hard shut. Stop rotation at that point and wait about a minute (no load, eco off).
 

Got Lumens?

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The problem I think may be the same as my friends 1400 predator. That knob connects to a cage containing springs connected to the carburetor, the actual fuel shut valve, and the contacts that ground out the pickup coil to shut down. It's all one complicated finicky setup. I also see no easy way to put an inline fuel valve, due to limited space with in the unit itself.
They seem to be designed to replace, not make repairs :(. They want You to but a another unit.
 

Poppy

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The next time i run my predator 2000 I'll try moving the switch to almost off and see if it dies after running out of fuel.

With the 3500, and I imagine the 2000 they have a hose at the bottom of the carb bowl that runs to a valve, and then another hose that runs to the bottom, and out of the unit. One can open the valve to drain the carb, or for that matter the entire gas tank. So they make that somewhat convenient, but you have to pull one of the side covers off and that requires removing three bolts. It would have been better if they were just pop on and off covers.

With the 3500 I drained the carb, and haven't test run it since. The 2000 gets it's season change test.
 

idleprocess

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The next time i run my predator 2000 I'll try moving the switch to almost off and see if it dies after running out of fuel.
Now that I look at it again, the valves are likely different. The Wen has a separate choke from the fuel on/off/hard off valve, unlike the Predator which combines the function.

With the 3500, and I imagine the 2000 they have a hose at the bottom of the carb bowl that runs to a valve, and then another hose that runs to the bottom, and out of the unit. One can open the valve to drain the carb, or for that matter the entire gas tank. So they make that somewhat convenient, but you have to pull one of the side covers off and that requires removing three bolts. It would have been better if they were just pop on and off covers.
The Wen has a similar arrangement for full drainage of the fuel system.
 

Got Lumens?

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My point is that most of discussed foreign designed/made affordable gensets dump into the float/bowl, and are not currently designed/or have the provided ability to burn the excess fuel trapped within the carburetor when shutdown is initiated. The remaining fuel causes problems if the genset is idled for extended periods of time, without test running them monthly, :).
 

Got Lumens?

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Perhaps in the bottom of the bowl ???
But it should fire right back up when needed again having running as much of the fuel out of the fuel system when shutting down.
Been 30+ years doing so within my genset's and snowblowers.
Only speaking from my experiences, not by any manufacturers recommendations.
I only run non-ethanol fuel's in these devices that can sit for extended periods of time without cycling the motor's regularly.
Just been my experiences and my opinion of doing such.

I do add stabilizer to any fuel added to these devices, and it has worked for my needs, without any repairs or added maintenance schedules. Just my suggestion, not wishing anyone do the same, as everyone will do as what is best for their individual circumstances.

GL
 

turbodog

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So when I turn the fuel off to my 10HP briggs and stratton snow blower and run it until it runs out of fuel, there is still fuel in the bowl?

Yes. Under the jet, there is some space before the bowl bottom.

You WANT this space, it acts like a fuel filter. Sediment remains down there, as does any water that comes through.

The bowl usually has a drain plug that you can crack open w/ a wrench or screwdriver to get this last bit, sediment, and water out.
 

Got Lumens?

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Yes,
Thank You, that is what has been discussed.
The attached Shutoff/Run assembly connected to the Run/Off knob, is something of sorts that requires specialized training/knowledge to independently service/and or adjust. I do not know more, basing upon my limited experiences with a 1400 Predator genset.
GL
 

scout24

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This is why we clean float bowls, run them dry, and exercise equipment regularly. This showed up at a shop I used to work at, "It won't start, can you take a look at it." This is extreme obviously and took a long time but it gets the point across. Anyone who disassembles and cleans there own carbs should buy a cheap welding tip cleaner kit. Very stiff wire in various very small diameters, perfect for getting into carb passages.
Screenshot_20230924_132400_Gallery.jpg
 

IMA SOL MAN

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This is why we clean float bowls, run them dry, and exercise equipment regularly. This showed up at a shop I used to work at, "It won't start, can you take a look at it." This is extreme obviously and took a long time but it gets the point across. Anyone who disassembles and cleans there own carbs should buy a cheap welding tip cleaner kit. Very stiff wire in various very small diameters, perfect for getting into carb passages.
View attachment 49675
Are you sure someone didn't have an alkaleak puke in there? :crackup:
 

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