MBI #3 - Codename: HF

phosphor22

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These look excellent, Guy!
I see the titanium 10440 body but not the copper yet - As you state it will be available soon?
 

the_guy_with_no_name

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These look excellent, Guy!
I see the titanium 10440 body but not the copper yet - As you state it will be available soon?

Hi phosphor22,

Thank you :)

Both ti & cu are available.
There's a select box (drop down) where you can select the material on the product page.
Do let me know if it doesn't seem to be working for you.

Tgwnn
 

phosphor22

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it works for the Titanium but not the copper (the message says "unavailable" when I select this); I wanted one of each with the 10440 body.
Thank you
 

sticktodrum

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I just ordered my first HF-R from Illumn.com, along with a pair of 10440s and the Nuke charger. It should be better than the jury rigged setup I've got going.

I'm pretty excited. The Torpedo was my first and only MBI piece, and I wanted something to go with it.
 

windstrings

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I just ordered my first HF-R from Illumn.com, along with a pair of 10440s and the Nuke charger. It should be better than the jury rigged setup I've got going.

I'm pretty excited. The Torpedo was my first and only MBI piece, and I wanted something to go with it.
You'll like the HF-R! It's quite different.
 

sticktodrum

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I tried to send Guy a PM about this, but his inbox is full it seems... :(

I just got the HF-R Ti, and charged a couple of Nukes to use it a bit. I used it in the rain earlier when putting stuff in the car, and noticed now that there are a couple of drops of water inside the lens. I didn't figure the lens didn't have an o-ring around it, and now I don't know what to do.

Anyone have a suggestion?
 

Got Lumens?

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I tried to send Guy a PM about this, but his inbox is full it seems... :(

I just got the HF-R Ti, and charged a couple of Nukes to use it a bit. I used it in the rain earlier when putting stuff in the car, and noticed now that there are a couple of drops of water inside the lens. I didn't figure the lens didn't have an o-ring around it, and now I don't know what to do.

Anyone have a suggestion?
There should be an o-ring between the lens and the bezel ring. It is possible that it got pinched or the bezel ring may not be tight enough to make a seal. Send Guy an email mbimbi777 @ gmail.com, He will get a reply to Your trouble sooner.
He always takes care of things like this :D
GL
 

sticktodrum

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Thank you Mr. Lumens, much appreciated. I actually got the bezel ring off and blew out the cavity and reflector. It's set up with a light warm air going over it to totally dry it out, and I'll pop it back together in a little bit. Seems fine, still functions normally.

I'll still drop him an email on advice about tightening the bezel without a tool.
 

sticktodrum

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My only other point of concern is what happens sometimes on high. I've got the Nichia 219, and sometimes on high, the tint immediately shifts to a weird blue. Gut reaction is overheating, but it doesn't happen after use, it happens after the light has been sitting there at room temp for a while and feels cool to the touch. Low and medium are fine, then as soon as I go to high, a half second passes and the beam turns blue.

Does anyone else have this, or did I just hit the lottery with a troublesome light?
 

Newguy2012

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My only other point of concern is what happens sometimes on high. I've got the Nichia 219, and sometimes on high, the tint immediately shifts to a weird blue. Gut reaction is overheating, but it doesn't happen after use, it happens after the light has been sitting there at room temp for a while and feels cool to the touch. Low and medium are fine, then as soon as I go to high, a half second passes and the beam turns blue.

Does anyone else have this, or did I just hit the lottery with a troublesome light?

Do you have a picture? You shouldn't leave it sitting by itself. The manual said use it no longer than 20sec(?). I think you have hold it to help dissipate the heat. The tint could shift if the LED is driven hard. People reported the tint gets cooler. Guy made Nichia 219 in 5000K before. Maybe that's the reason?:confused:
 
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Got Lumens?

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My only other point of concern is what happens sometimes on high. I've got the Nichia 219, and sometimes on high, the tint immediately shifts to a weird blue. Gut reaction is overheating, but it doesn't happen after use, it happens after the light has been sitting there at room temp for a while and feels cool to the touch. Low and medium are fine, then as soon as I go to high, a half second passes and the beam turns blue.

Does anyone else have this, or did I just hit the lottery with a troublesome light?
Your description sounds like the encapsulate over the LED has been compromised allowing air, or in your description water, to get to the LED. Like NewGuy asked, can You post a picture of the LED with the reflector removed? A tint shift is very likely if one is not careful with over-driven LED's. Compound this with the HF's small size, heat can build up quickly allowing for an accelerated tint shift. One more, if water was present when the light was on high, it can heat the water droplets hot enough to cause them to steam, which can accelerate the LEDs encapsulant to become compromised, or in the case of a modder, a de-domed LED.
GL
 

windstrings

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Thank you Mr. Lumens, much appreciated. I actually got the bezel ring off and blew out the cavity and reflector. It's set up with a light warm air going over it to totally dry it out, and I'll pop it back together in a little bit. Seems fine, still functions normally.

I'll still drop him an email on advice about tightening the bezel without a tool.
I would leave the bezel off and pull the battery and end cap and let it bake in the hot sun.
 

sticktodrum

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What I meant with the light sitting there, was that it was sitting off just staying at room temp. No worries, I didn't kick it onto high and walk away. ;)

I'll have to wait until tomorrow to get the reflector off again for a photo, however I can say for certain that this tint shift happened before the light got wet. I figured it was something to do with the battery, and oddly enough, it may be. Or it's just random. It happened last with a freshly charged Nuke, but I just popped a different Nuke in right off the charger and it did not happen. Unfortunately now, is seems that the output on high is diminished...so it could be that the head is a bit unlucky...

Here's the video of the tint shift:


I have to say, I got a reply from Guy, and as always he's remarkably gracious and going out of his way to help. :):thumbsup:
This all wasn't meant to be a complaint, so I hope no one took all of this as that. My only experience with these kinds of lights have been the Torpedo X, which is pretty wicked. So I'm in the dark with a lot of this custom light type stuff. A big thanks for the help folks, and of course thanks to Guy for being so kind.


An unrelated question: This HF-R at Illumn.com says "Cool White" but the temp is listed as 4750K. To me, that's neutral. Is that an accurate CCT figure? If so, I may grab a couple of those... http://www.illumn.com/mbi-hf-r-ti-s...ashlight-round-titanium-single-trit-tail.html
 

Newguy2012

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I think Guy use Nichia LEDs within spec. If I remember correctly the Nichia version have something that prevent it from over driven on high. I remember reading the Nichia will get sightly longer runtime because of it. So I guess it could the water thing. Maybe he should air dry it some more?

@sticktodrum
I hope you didn't blow dry it or wipe the delicate reflector or LED, just air dry. Anyways I think Guy will have a way to resolve your issue.
 

sticktodrum

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I used an air blower to get the water out from everything and then left it near a fan blowing warm air from my apartment's radiator.

Anyway, Guy said there's something certainly wrong with the head, so he'll replace it. The tint shift and the fact that water got in at all isn't typical.
 
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