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Sold/Expired Megalennium 3x18650 by FiveMega

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Varooj, I'll take #57 with the inner taper anodizing removed so I can use it with my LED Zeppelin module.

PayPal to follow when I wake up in the morning.

:paypal: Paypal sent for One Megalennium plus US shipping = $125

Thanks,
-Ed
 
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Fivemega,

The contact end toward the head came out from my Megallenium body. Is there a way to get it back in. I don't want to have to try and line up the proper polarity when taking out and putting in cells.

The positive contact on my LED-zep head pushed it out.

Any help would be great..:sigh:

BTW..I really like this body!!:twothumbs
 
The contact piece can only go one way in there. It's not completely symmetrical. Strange that the M-Zep head pushed it out of there, the FM MN Bi Pin adapter protrudes out far more and exerts a lot more force.

-Ed
 
DaFABRICATA said:
Fivemega,

The contact end toward the head came out from my Megallenium body. Is there a way to get it back in. I don't want to have to try and line up the proper polarity when taking out and putting in cells.

The positive contact on my LED-zep head pushed it out.

Any help would be great..:sigh:

BTW..I really like this body!!:twothumbs
Click to expand...

Tim, I believe the head-side battery plate can be inserted in any position so you need to be careful with orientation. The shallow recess for the tail end plate is what is asymmetric.

I removed mine to strip the ano and after careful centering I used a wood dowel and mallet to tap it into place. It's a tight friction fit, but you don't need a press.

There is little room for error in adjusting the contact screw of the MZ LED modules. Since there is no spring too much length will displace the battery plate as you discovered. It might be possible to use a conical spring that snaps over the contact screw or ideally is bolted down by it. But careful adjustment will do; just begin with the screw slightly recessed and back it out until it works.
 
Hi, Varooj, I forgot to put in PayPal notes that I wanted the anodizing in the inner taper removed. Just double checking.

Thanks,
-Ed
 
[size=+2]
PLEASE EVERYBODY READ​
[/size]

Why haven't you shipped out my second Megamanium body yet? I see others that have paid after me and have been shipped but mine has not shipped. Please advise as to what is going on.
Click to expand...
Because I didn't know who you are and I know now.
This is the reason, I repeatedly asked your CPF handle is necessary in paypal note.
DIDN'T THINK IT WOULD BE AN ISSUE AS THIS WAS THE SECOND ONE PURCHASED AND WE HAD BEEN IN CORRESPONDANCE BEFORE AND THOUGHT YOU WOULD REMEMBER BUT YOU ARE RIGHT THAT I FORGOT THE CPF HANDLE. 😳
Click to expand...
I wish I had such a good memory to remember hundreds of name and CPF handle.

I forgot to put in PayPal notes that I wanted the anodizing in the inner taper removed.
Click to expand...
Now you have another chance because refund issued.
[size=+2]DO NOT TRUST MY MEMORY[/size]

Edwood said:
I'll take #57

:paypal: Paypal sent for One Megalennium plus US shipping = $125

Thanks,
-Ed
Click to expand...
You are #50 simply because there was dead bid on that number.

DaFABRICATA said:
Fivemega,

The contact end toward the head came out from my Megallenium body. Is there a way to get it back in. I don't want to have to try and line up the proper polarity when taking out and putting in cells.

The positive contact on my LED-zep head pushed it out.

Any help would be great..:sigh:

BTW..I really like this body!!:twothumbs
Click to expand...

The inner contact board is pressed in according to orientation of back contact board and don't put it back unless you know what you are doing.
Since its a pushed in and designed to work with spring pressure, it may come loose with solid force like what LED Zeppelin explained in post #124


starburst said:
I'll Take #56

starburst,
Click to expand...
Next person who pay, will be #56
[size=+2]Anybody can explain in simple English, what NO RESEVATION means and what for?[/size]

Next available number is 56
 
:paypal: PayPal sent.

PayPal Notes:
From "Edwood" on CPF - #50 Megalennium - USA Shipping - Please remove anodizing from inner taper

Thanks,
-Ed
 
Hey, FM, if you did another run of these, would you consider making them with a tailcap that can tailstand? Thanks.
 
Just got mine this past Friday (WAY before I expected it) and I have to say, it's beyond anything I was anticipating! I mean seriously, I don't know anything about machining but it's obvious a LOT of time was spent perfecting the design! Now I wish I had ordered the AW switch and extra 3x18650's that I need to run this...it's really painful to see it sitting on my desk.

Thanks for another great product!!:rock: :bow:
 
Varooj, I had a sneaking feeling that you would be able to crank out more of these, seeing the demand!

For those who are forceably removing the inside contact plate, it is exceedingly easy before replacing it to line up the "N" & "P" to be opposite the tailcap piece contacts that ONLY fits one way.

donn_ said:
Is there a user-friendly way to change this gizmo to parallel?
Click to expand...
Donn, it would be relatively easy, and I have done this on other FM setups. Basically you need to join contacts like I show in this quick Photoshop, making sure to keep contact points at same height. You can also Dremel a shallow groove for new metal strip so it stays in place.

top.jpg
tail.jpg
 
Lux, what kind of incand bulbs can we run with a // setup like this? Or would it be limited to running LED setups only because of the low voltage?
 
58# mt1000 :paypal: $127 for:
One Megalennium plus international shipping.

Payment Sent (Unique Transaction ID #5XL82607406225144)
 
Thanks, Lux. You're right, I want it for LED applications, including a KL6/P7 head.

Perhaps Varooj would consider offering optional extra contact plates, set up for parallel. This way, we'd have the option of going either way. :devil:
 
donn_ said:
Thanks, Lux. You're right, I want it for LED applications, including a KL6/P7 head.
Click to expand...
I had this same thought. Sweet, relatively compact, high capacity host.

But will the AW switch operate correctly on 3.7v? As I recall, his Mag C and D switches required a minimum of ~6v.
 
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